South West (England) Bouldering (Read 166056 times)

fatneck · July 01, 2017, 04:55:21 pm

Bit off topic so apologies. Mrs Fatneck and I are down in Devon (staying in Teignmouth) and had plans to get out climbing again tomorrow but it's the Dartmoor Classic bike race and we're struggling to find out how it will affect our plans. Is it worth trying to get out on the Moors or should we hit a beach and eat ice cream?

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Hoseyb · July 01, 2017, 06:15:58 pm

Been a while since I've been down that way, but what about the lime? Chudleigh bouldering or lqp dws?

Hoseyb · July 01, 2017, 06:26:47 pm

Although looking at the route dewerstone bouldering should be all accessible if you want granite

ben · July 01, 2017, 10:15:41 pm

I'm doing the ride and I think there are ~4000 riders taking part so is going to busy.. however you if you wanted to do routes then obviously all the lime would be fine (torbryan/ansteys etc.).

Bouldering wise - you could head down to Combshead above Burrator, the ride isn't going that way and its a beautiful spot. Or.. the part up past Haytor and down to Ashburton is at the beginning of the ride so I imagine (don't blame me if not!) that by midday the roads up to Bonehill/Hound Tor etc should be as free as they ever are on a sunny Sunday afternoon!

Finally, there's some tiny back lanes that would get you into Bovey Woods without needing to go on the cycle route roads

hope that helps somewhat

fatneck · July 02, 2017, 07:43:39 am

Very helpful Ben. Thank you and hope the ride goes well!

ben · July 04, 2017, 10:20:49 am

Quote from: fatneck on July 02, 2017, 07:43:39 am

Very helpful Ben. Thank you and hope the ride goes well!

Hope you managed to get out fatneck? The ride went well although it's hard work comparing to lazing around on mats and occasionally pulling on

fatneck · July 04, 2017, 12:09:07 pm

Thanks Ben and yes we did!! We went for a swim in the sea in the morning and hit Combestone Tor in the afternoon without too much hassle! Thanks again for the help 👍

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GazM · January 04, 2019, 02:06:03 pm

Thread resurrection!
Can any Dartmoor officionados offer any advice on where the classic The Wave at Bonehill starts? I'm hoping to get down that way for a rare flying visit in a few weeks and it's long been on my to-do list. From previous visits I recall there being two horizontal breaks below the famous monkey paw so assume the 'official' start is matched in the lower break? There's a dearth of videos online that I can cheat from.

monkoffunk · October 22, 2019, 10:08:24 am

James Squire has done his project on Devon Sent boulder, looks very good!

https://www.instagram.com/tv/B35SAv8jhhl/?igshid=uta8umah6q1x

tomrainbow · October 22, 2019, 05:25:58 pm

Great work James...let me know the name and grade when you have decided on them!

You know there's another interesting project at the right end of the boulder, coming out left from the juggy feature into poor side pulls finishing off with what looks like a dyne to a blob? About time that was climbed as well.

tomrainbow · October 22, 2019, 05:31:59 pm

Just seen the top of your post with name and grade so all's good.

Walker's embarrasingly named Over the Rainbow needs an ascent and grade confirmation. He reckoned 7c+ but, knowing him, I wouldn't be surprised if it was harder. Brilliant looking problem:

https://www.instagram.com/p/BTtb_BWB9Fg/

BrutusTheBear · October 27, 2019, 11:21:15 pm

Heh Tom. Mikey punted off the end of Over The Rainbow, don’t think he’s been back to finish it but probably he can give you a rough idea on grade...

Duma · October 28, 2019, 07:56:13 pm

Quote from: tomrainbow on October 22, 2019, 05:25:58 pm

You know there's another interesting project at the right end of the boulder, coming out left from the juggy feature into poor side pulls finishing off with what looks like a dyne to a blob? About time that was climbed as well.

He's done it, vid in his ig stories.
I've wondered about this before, glad it's got done

tomrainbow · October 29, 2019, 12:03:19 am

Any info on it Duma? I'm surprised he hasn't put it on UKC as he put Infamous on there the other day.

Duma · October 29, 2019, 12:29:10 am

Not spoken to him since, but his IG story says hardest move he's done

https://www.instagram.com/beastlysquirrel/

tomrainbow · October 29, 2019, 01:49:46 pm

Technical duncery alert - I can't find the relevant part of his IG story!

Wood FT · October 29, 2019, 02:10:32 pm

Click on his picture Tom, it’ll pop up

tomrainbow · October 29, 2019, 03:17:12 pm

Thanks Guy.

Presumably he's only just done it...gotta be pretty hard if it's the hardest move he's ever done!

I think the Mega Wall is now pretty much worked out:

Nether Edge - 7A+/7B
Abbeydale Road - 7B
Infamous - 8B
Devon Sent - 7C+
James' new dyno problem - ?? (presumably at least 8A)
The Side Issue - 6A

Guess which one I put up! Not a bad set of problems.

SA Chris · October 29, 2019, 03:26:44 pm

I'd like that boulder in my back garden collection please. Devon Sent would be a problem I'd be happy to play on forever.

tomrainbow · October 29, 2019, 04:07:21 pm

Not sure your fingertips would feel the same way!!

SA Chris · October 29, 2019, 05:01:00 pm

Can't be worse than the local stuff.

Danny · October 29, 2019, 10:39:37 pm

Oh it can. I think the SW granite is easily the sharpest rock I've ever climbed on.

SA Chris · October 30, 2019, 09:06:54 am

I lived in Bristol for 3 years and climbed on the moors regularly, and found it OK. I prefer it to the razor rat crimps on the hard routes on local rock; shist of some sort?

Danny · October 30, 2019, 02:51:19 pm

No accounting for taste I suppose!

Beastly Squirrel · November 02, 2019, 08:36:59 pm

Hey guys,
I only just saw this post, sorry had a super long week at work. Thank you for the kind comments! <3
I just uploaded the video of the new dyno - I called it "Rocket Science" and the video is here:
https://www.instagram.com/p/B4YFKwGjbJi/
Hopefully there is more cool stuff hiding in Bovey Woods :-)