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South West (England) Bouldering (Read 165504 times)

Duma

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#425 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
December 21, 2016, 09:29:46 am
Great stuff Tom, thanks for writing up!  :bounce: :bounce:

Duma

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#426 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
December 29, 2016, 10:52:29 am
James Squire and Hamish Potokar both repeated Mikeys Pe'ahi 8A+ at Bonehill yesterday (2nd and 3rd ascents I think?). Nice to see a proper up problem on this wall get some attention rather than all the sideways links.

Duncan campbell

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#427 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
December 29, 2016, 11:10:38 am
Yes was impressive to see James absolutely piss his way up it from the floor having redone the top 'just to make sure'  :strongbench:

shurt

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#428 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
January 18, 2017, 11:15:02 pm
Well it's out and looks pretty cool. I'll be getting a copy pretty sharpish.

http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/shop/books/south-west/dartmoor/

fatneck

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#429 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
January 19, 2017, 02:38:12 pm
I should be getting mine on me birthday next week!  :bounce:

sxrxg

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#430 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
January 19, 2017, 02:56:18 pm
I should be getting mine on me birthday next week!  :bounce:

Possible venue for this years birthday weekender?

fatneck

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#431 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
January 19, 2017, 03:02:10 pm
Too far for a weekender I reckon! Planning a wife trip later in the year :-)

andy_e

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#432 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
January 19, 2017, 03:04:09 pm
<hijack>Any Fatneck Birthday WeekendTM plans yet Si?</hijack>

SA Chris

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#433 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
January 19, 2017, 03:06:35 pm
Northumberland?

At least I wouldn't have to fly. Just saying.

Dartmoor guide is really good. I was going to post my (free) copy down to a mate who lives in Exmouth,  as I am unlikely to use it much, but might hang on to it a while and read it some more....

sxrxg

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#434 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
January 19, 2017, 03:14:31 pm
I would be up for Northumberland. Or maybe the North Lakes (Carrock, Bowderstone, Gillercombe)?

Richie Crouch

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#435 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
January 19, 2017, 10:10:52 pm
2nd vote for the lakes here!  :agree:

BrutusTheBear

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#436 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
January 19, 2017, 10:41:16 pm
Alright , alright let's call this house to order :offtopic:
Stop thy muddying of the SW thread with talk of Northumberland and the Lakes.

Duma

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#437 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
January 20, 2017, 09:27:06 am
Cailean did Pe'ahi the other day. Most popular hard problem in the SW suddenly.

shurt

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#438 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
January 30, 2017, 01:29:14 pm
Got my copy of the new Dartmoor guide and it is just brilliant. Few places in there that have sketchy info which now don't e.g. Lustleigh Cleave and having all the topos, maps etc for the woods in a guide is perfect. I often visit the same places down there but now will not be.

fatneck

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#439 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
January 30, 2017, 01:58:38 pm
 :agree:

Lovely quirky write ups, funny bits, FA info, good history section - just what a good guide should be!

ben

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#440 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
January 30, 2017, 03:46:31 pm
I'm sure the landscape format is great for at the crag, but its not ideal for bedtime reading! :-\

shurt

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#441 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
January 30, 2017, 07:57:34 pm
I'm sure the landscape format is great for at the crag, but its not ideal for bedtime reading! :-\

Or the bog, my prime guide reading time!!

shurt

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#442 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
February 01, 2017, 12:04:27 am
On the subject of the new guide can anyone confirm whether or not Toltec Twostep and TT direct are the wrong way round? I don't have the old guide to compare. I'm not nit picking just interested where the routes go...

Duma

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#443 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
February 01, 2017, 07:33:48 am
Yes they are (the wrong way round)

shurt

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#444 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
February 01, 2017, 10:00:33 pm
Yes they are (the wrong way round)

Oh good I'm not going mad. I remember you did it a while back - nice one again!

monkey boy

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#445 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
April 22, 2017, 08:01:28 pm
Managed to re-climb Supercede at Hartland today. I hadn't climbed it before so I don't know how it compares grade wise but it felt harder than The Revolution is Coming and The End is Nigh so maybe 8A+? I still think the crux is the move to the rail which is the same as before it broke. A brilliant climb whatever; great rock quality (except the top) and interesting moves.

I came up with a couple of possible methods/ideas that I thought would work for the top but ended up using the crimp that was previously used as the intermediate for the left hand to bump my right hand to an undercut below the crimp rail. From here I built my feet and went left hand to the top.

Duma

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#446 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
April 22, 2017, 11:06:43 pm
Brilliant, nice one! Glad it still goes.

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk


monkey boy

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#447 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
April 23, 2017, 07:05:09 am
Brilliant, nice one! Glad it still goes.

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk



Thanks. It's such a fun set of moves and the rock is incredible, especially that sloper!

Duma

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#448 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
June 04, 2017, 12:49:55 pm
Jonny Kydd did the RH sit (ie from Arch angels start) to Godzilla at biblins this morning -  8B, though harder (and better) than the lh low start he did last year.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BU6hd2llm8t/

andy_e

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#449 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
June 05, 2017, 11:44:32 am
Wadzilla is an ace name!

 

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