South West (England) Bouldering (Read 165940 times)

DAVETHOMAS90 · April 20, 2016, 12:28:12 am

Cracking looking problem, and yes, great vid.

I love the power shakes!

BrutusTheBear · April 23, 2016, 10:03:59 am

A couple of videos and a big YYFY for me.. I have lived in Devon for 11 years and had visited Bonehill rocks a few times before moving here. Tsunami always stood out as being a hard line that I wanted to do but I only really ever fettled with it and shook my head at the minginess of the crimps at the start. Last winter I got stuck into it to no avail. This winter I really got stuck into it, did some extra regular, structured training (something I have never done before), each session getting it more wired and getting closer. All this fitted around work, being a husband and a dad to a 2 year old and 5 year old. A proper siege (again something I have never done before). In March a few days before my 42nd birthday I climbed it. For me, probably the hardest 7c+ I have climbed and one I know has shut down more than a few local wads.

I climbed this slab problem 'Flesh and Blood Gods' down at Lynmouth West in 2014. It's around about 7b, technical, sequency, long and very on/off right until the last hard rock over. It's currently unrepeated, a brilliant problem, at a truly atmospheric venue and most importantly is still accessible/climbable on most high tides. There is also a blow hole right next to it which 'breathes' and 'spits' if there is a swell running.

Duma · April 25, 2016, 08:37:14 am

Looks good, hopefully will get down to Exmoor coast soon.
In less good news, Jonny broke the last crimp before the lip off Supercede yesterday, doubly gutting as it looked like he was going to do it that go. Bit surprising too as he's pretty light. It hasn't left anything usable, so it'll either need gluing back (Jonny has the hold, but none of us have the knowledge, plus dunno if it'd work in a tidal environment like that), or the problem is going to be a fair bit harder.
Hold is the one Hamish gets with his left hand at 35s in this video :

dontfollowme · April 25, 2016, 09:23:17 am

Hi guys,

I'm going to be staying not far from Crediton (near Thelbridge Cross) over the bank holiday weekend and I'm hoping to get a couple of hours of bouldering in. Where would people recommend that is relatively near.

Thanks

BrutusTheBear · April 25, 2016, 11:44:28 am

Quote from: Duma on April 25, 2016, 08:37:14 am

Looks good, hopefully will get down to Exmoor coast soon.
In less good news, Jonny broke the last crimp before the lip off Supercede yesterday, doubly gutting as it looked like he was going to do it that go. Bit surprising too as he's pretty light.

Give me shout if you're in the area.

. Shame about the hold on Supercede. Might be a difficult job to glue it back on considering where it is... See what other folk think. Is it still doable without?

BrutusTheBear · April 25, 2016, 11:47:34 am

Quote from: dontfollowme on April 25, 2016, 09:23:17 am

Hi guys,

I'm going to be staying not far from Crediton (near Thelbridge Cross) over the bank holiday weekend and I'm hoping to get a couple of hours of bouldering in. Where would people recommend that is relatively near.

You are closest to Dartmoor... Depends on what you fancy as to which tor or woods you end up in. Check Javu and UkC for more info... Bonehill is the obvious easy access, compact, well documented place that is suited to a quick session.

SA Chris · April 25, 2016, 11:53:42 am

Closest to you probably isn't best! Agree loads to choose from in Haytor Area, Bonehill obvious choice if you've never been before, but I've always liked Smallacombe for a bit of solitude.

dontfollowme · April 25, 2016, 12:21:05 pm

I have climbed at Bone Hill a few times when I've been in the area. I will have a look at Smallacombe.

SA Chris · April 25, 2016, 12:51:26 pm

Prepare to get lost, it's a large area. Worth printing out any photos of problems you can find for reference.

dontfollowme · April 25, 2016, 01:57:34 pm

Just been looking on UKC and Cartoolands looks good and quite close.

Thanks all for the suggestions.

BrutusTheBear · April 25, 2016, 03:10:33 pm

Quote from: dontfollowme on April 25, 2016, 01:57:34 pm

Just been looking on UKC and Cartoolands looks good and quite close.

Thanks all for the suggestions.

cartoon lands would be a really good shout.

andyd · April 25, 2016, 05:37:20 pm

That's an ambitious walk for a non-local-person. It's not a quick-hit venue. If you're partial to the odd highball and solo mixed in with your session then hound tor is a pleasure.

BrutusTheBear · April 25, 2016, 06:04:37 pm

Quote from: andyd on April 25, 2016, 05:37:20 pm

That's an ambitious walk for a non-local-person. It's not a quick-hit venue. If you're partial to the odd highball and solo mixed in with your session then hound tor is a pleasure.

Assume you are referring to Smallacombe because the walk into Cartoonlands is relatively straightforward and short. It's pretty compact and there are loads of new problems in the 6s that are mostly top notch.
If you've only got a couple of hours though, Hound Tor is also a good shout.

tomrainbow · April 25, 2016, 08:51:52 pm

Cheers for the feedback Grant...Cartoonlands is looking better than it ever has at the moment and has a slew of fun 6s and low 7s. Short walk in, easy to locate boulders and a couple of big lines still to go. Get in there before conditions go and the leaves come out.

As an aside, it will be going in the new guidebook that James Clapham has written along with The Orgasmatron, about two thirds of the problems in Bovey Woods, most if not all of the new stuff at Lustleigh (if Walker ever gets round to committing to a grade on his new problems), Gidleigh and (I think) Becka Brook. Red Dragon Ridge and a number of other new spots are missing out, however.

There is a very old Cartoonlands topo here:

http://shaptor.wikifoundry.com/page/Outlying+Areas

It's pretty out of date now but will help you identify where the new things go...hopefully.

Duma · April 25, 2016, 09:27:59 pm

Quote from: BrutusTheBear on April 25, 2016, 11:44:28 am

Quote from: Duma on April 25, 2016, 08:37:14 am
Looks good, hopefully will get down to Exmoor coast soon.
In less good news, Jonny broke the last crimp before the lip off Supercede yesterday, doubly gutting as it looked like he was going to do it that go. Bit surprising too as he's pretty light.
Give me shout if you're in the area.

. Shame about the hold on Supercede. Might be a difficult job to glue it back on considering where it is... See what other folk think. Is it still doable without?

will do.

Think it'll prob still go, but it'll be a considerably bigger move, to a worse hold, high up on the problem. Very much doubt it'll be the same grade.

SA Chris · April 26, 2016, 08:58:37 am

Quote from: tomrainbow on April 25, 2016, 08:51:52 pm

the new guidebook that James Clapham has written.

Is there a date for release of this yet?

Cartoonlands looks fun. Shame it was off the radar when I lived down there.

monkey boy · April 26, 2016, 09:22:56 am

Quote from: Duma on April 25, 2016, 08:37:14 am

Looks good, hopefully will get down to Exmoor coast soon.
In less good news, Jonny broke the last crimp before the lip off Supercede yesterday, doubly gutting as it looked like he was going to do it that go. Bit surprising too as he's pretty light. It hasn't left anything usable, so it'll either need gluing back (Jonny has the hold, but none of us have the knowledge, plus dunno if it'd work in a tidal environment like that), or the problem is going to be a fair bit harder.
Hold is the one Hamish gets with his left hand at 35s in this video :

Rubbish! I wanted to go and try this when I am down in the summer. Do you think it would still go but just be harder?

Duma · April 26, 2016, 09:29:10 am

Yeah think so, see my reply to grant two posts up. We didn't get back up to that point to attempt it though. Real shame as it's a great problem, hope it still goes.

Duma · April 26, 2016, 09:30:46 am

Basically it looks like you'll have to go again with yr LH to the hold Hamish crosses over to with his right.

Fultonius · April 26, 2016, 10:32:04 am

Quote from: SA Chris on April 26, 2016, 08:58:37 am

Quote from: tomrainbow on April 25, 2016, 08:51:52 pm

the new guidebook that James Clapham has written.

Is there a date for release of this yet?

Cartoonlands looks fun. Shame it was off the radar when I lived down there.

He's hoping to have it done for mid summer, I'll post an update if I hear anything.

SA Chris · April 26, 2016, 10:34:17 am

Cheers. I'm due a free copy for supplying photos.

monkey boy · April 26, 2016, 03:58:12 pm

Quote from: Duma on April 26, 2016, 09:29:10 am

Yeah think so, see my reply to grant two posts up. We didn't get back up to that point to attempt it though. Real shame as it's a great problem, hope it still goes.

Oops sorry, skim reading. I hope it does still go, it's an amazing wall. I'll give it a bash, if the tides are good, when am down in July.

BrutusTheBear · June 02, 2016, 09:56:57 am

Tintagel Bouldering = class venue, class problems and class location.

Duma · June 02, 2016, 10:32:57 am

Nice Vid, love that boulder, such a magic spot. Please tell me it wasn't your dog ends I had to pick up on Tuesday morning though.

BrutusTheBear · June 02, 2016, 10:41:44 am

Was gonna comment on your post yesterday.. Good effort on picking them up. Not guilty.
The place is used by fishermen too and has been frequented by lots of climbers recently. Best you can do is raise awareness.
Spend a lot of time on the coast, much worse than this is the amount of 'marine litter' washing up on the beaches, plastics, palm oil etc. Etc.