[Steamboat Stello]

And climbing ban both bank holiday weekends in May.

https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/ViewCrag.aspx?id=930

Why is climbing banned on May bank holidays? Never been to Cheddar, am a BMC member but do I need to take my card with me to climb as it might take some finding!

[crimp]

And climbing ban both bank holiday weekends in May.

https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/ViewCrag.aspx?id=930

Why is climbing banned on May bank holidays? Never been to Cheddar, am a BMC member but do I need to take my card with me to climb as it might take some finding!

it's because the rock is not above suspicion, and gorge full of tourists.

You don't have to physically have your card with you, but it helps if asked. Having the insurance is crucial though. It's a hard won access agreement.

[crimp]

And climbing ban both bank holiday weekends in May.

https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/ViewCrag.aspx?id=930

Why is climbing banned on May bank holidays? Never been to Cheddar, am a BMC member but do I need to take my card with me to climb as it might take some finding!

hi steamboat.

Should also say if you've never been to cheddar, get a good look at guide if you haven't already got one. So you'll be sure you're going up shoot gully and not the gully of creeps.

And take care in shoot gully as well.

[wintermute]

How would one make sure they have the right gully then? I haven't got a guide and was planning on just winging it.

[crimp]

How would one make sure they have the right gully then? I haven't got a guide and was planning on just winging it.

if you go to top of gorge, on left hand side looking down gorge you will find a covered reservoir. Shoot gully is the big gully about 50 metres below that. Past an obvious moderate line, Eden crack, with a cave at its base (from memory, i think it's called white spot cave).

[Duma]

It's the gully that starts at the coach turning circle - can't miss it I'd have thought?
scramble up this then take the path on the right about 20m above the rock fence, through the little wood, wallflower cave is obvious once you come out the other side of the woods

[crimp]

Duma

you are of course right.

I was overthinking in relation to the rock. There is a fucking great bus turning circle below shoot gully.

I shall punish myself accordingly for overlooking that.

[tedj234]

Hi all,

Has anyone got any information about Anstey's Cove beach bouldering. I hear there are a couple of good problems (Gravitron, When the Days are Dead) down there and I was keen to check them out. Haven't been able to find any pics/vids or info yet. Location, tides and general beta all greatly appreciated.

Many thanks.

[crimp]

Hi Ted.

Don't know much myself, but if you look in conditions, there is an ansteys cove thread. May be some relevant info there.

Also, if you type ansteys into search, top right of screen, that should bring up any existing beta and discussions on ansteys cove on UKB.

Hope that helps

[Andy W]

Post

A new problem
The Zennor Fool 7b +

Down at the bottom of Zennor Cliffs. Quite a few problems, but generally very bad landings, lots of mats needed. I would say it's as good as Clodgy. Just so hard to access. I'll be happy to show any interested folk around. I'm not sure about the grade, it felt harder, but that might be because I was generally working it on my own and its a bit scary down there! — at Grid ref Pendour Cove x(144625.000) y(38965.000).

[granticus]

Nice One Andy.  Looks cool. 

I went to Northcott on Friday evening and a big lump has fallen off the top of Red Quinnie cave.  Just to the left of where Red Quinnie tops out, the offending lump is currently sat right under the crux of Red Quinnie making it very awkward to climb.  Assuming the lump eventually moves, Red Quinnie will be unaffected but I'm not sure about the problems to the left though.

[Andy W]

Post

A new problem
The Zennor Fool 7b +

Down at the bottom of Zennor Cliffs. Quite a few problems, but generally very bad landings, lots of mats needed. I would say it's as good as Clodgy. Just so hard to access. I'll be happy to show any interested folk around. I'm not sure about the grade, it felt harder, but that might be because I was generally working it on my own and its a bit scary down there! — at Grid ref Pendour Cove x(144625.000) y(38965.000).

</iframe> <p><a href="">The Zennor Fool 7b+</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user13555439">andy whall</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>

I've just found that I can put video shot on a phone straight onto Vimeo, quality much better than on FB.

[Steamboat Stello]

That looks great! I'd be keen for a look over the summer but I'm guessing good conditions might be tricky to find? Is the landing much worse than the Carnage block at Hartland?

[Andy W]

That looks great! I'd be keen for a look over the summer but I'm guessing good conditions might be tricky to find? Is the landing much worse than the Carnage block at Hartland?

Its not as bad as the Carnage landing, which I thought pretty horrible. Its been terraced a fair bit, so its flat and with some pads its fine. I used four mats and had no spotter. its pretty steep so stays surprisingly dry, I've been down in the summer and winter and its not that condition dependent, it has one sloper, the rock is not high friction, so it always feels bad! Its not tidal, although approach is best done two hours either side of an average low tide. Quite a bit of other potential down there as well.

[fried]

What's the current situation at Lulworth? Is it still banned and if so, is that banned, banned or just banned?

I'll be staying there for a week at the end of May and wouldn't mind sneaking out in the evening.

[crimp]

What's the current situation at Lulworth? Is it still banned and if so, is that banned, banned or just banned?

I'll be staying there for a week at the end of May and wouldn't mind sneaking out in the evening.

Alright bud.

Check below.

https://thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/ViewCrag.aspx?id=161

[fried]

Thank you, sir.

[crimp]

Never got round to it, but always fancied silly arete on durdle door,  ever since high or climber and hillwalker magazine had a feature on it way back in the 80s.

[SA Chris]

Try get hold of a thin wetty if you can, in May the water can still be unpleasantly chilly.

[fried]

Me, in water? You must be joking, I'm like the a human cat! I'll just be pootling around some of the boulder probs and since I'll be pad-lass probably just traversing.

[SA Chris]

Had no idea there was any bouldering there. Maypole is an easy fun traverse (slightly harder if you take the low variation going through the cave), and Laws traverse has one tricky but safe boulder problem section (at high tide) which is really close to shore if you fall in either on the way there or the way back. Be a shame not to at least give them a go.

[Steamboat Stello]

That looks great! I'd be keen for a look over the summer but I'm guessing good conditions might be tricky to find? Is the landing much worse than the Carnage block at Hartland?

Its not as bad as the Carnage landing, which I thought pretty horrible. Its been terraced a fair bit, so its flat and with some pads its fine. I used four mats and had no spotter. its pretty steep so stays surprisingly dry, I've been down in the summer and winter and its not that condition dependent, it has one sloper, the rock is not high friction, so it always feels bad! Its not tidal, although approach is best done two hours either side of an average low tide. Quite a bit of other potential down there as well.

Cheers. I didn't think Carnage landing was toooo bad, fine with 3 big pads and spotters but dodgy with anything less. I'll just rehab my latest A2 pulley injury and I'll be down for a raid over the summer! I might PM you for some more detailed access/location info at some point.

[fried]

Had no idea there was any bouldering there. Maypole is an easy fun traverse (slightly harder if you take the low variation going through the cave), and Laws traverse has one tricky but safe boulder problem section (at high tide) which is really close to shore if you fall in either on the way there or the way back. Be a shame not to at least give them a go.

There seem to be a few bits od bouldering there, but I don't know much about the quality, there are a few vids on youtube ans suchlike. I'd imagine it wouldn't be worth a long drive to visit.

I'd been looking at the photos of Maypole a while back and I'd certainly give it a go if it was warm enough. I suspect I'd pump out pretty quickly and fully expect to end up in the drink! I haven't climbed anything that long for a very long time.

[SA Chris]

Maypole is basically a scramble with a couple of slightly bouldery bits. My brother made it 3/4 of the way round and he's climbed maybe 3 or 4 times. Laws is a bit pumpier but great fun and has good rests. Crux is a steep boulder prob but very safe at high tide; worth doing.

[crimp]

 

see Trym Valley conditions thread.

Couldn't be assed to copy and paste