[EdGowSmith]

 Ah cool, thanks for that

[EdGowSmith]

Also, on a separate note, I'm in Godrevy and yesterday climbed a problem between The Sweep and Blacking Out the Friction, starting from a sitter and then going up the cracks, topping out in the niche.

It's an obvious line and not too hard, maybe soft 7A? so someone must have done it before. Does anyone know if it has a name and/or a confirmed grade?
 

[Andy W]

Also, on a separate note, I'm in Godrevy and yesterday climbed a problem between The Sweep and Blacking Out the Friction, starting from a sitter and then going up the cracks, topping out in the niche.

It's an obvious line and not too hard, maybe soft 7A? so someone must have done it before. Does anyone know if it has a name and/or a confirmed grade?

That does sound like its been climbed. The wall under the sweep is generally a bit damp and pebble levels are often a bit high, so the bit you climbed doesn't get much attention. Did you got the lip of 'the sweep' then into the niche?

Did you notice what the pebble levels are like under 'burnt toast'?

[EdGowSmith]

I just went direct up the cracks below the niche, and then used better holds either side to top-out.
The pebble levels are low all-round I think - judging from topos, though I don't know where Burnt Toast is?
Probably opens up some possibilities under The Sweep...

[Andy W]

I just went direct up the cracks below the niche, and then used better holds either side to top-out.
The pebble levels are low all-round I think - judging from topos, though I don't know where Burnt Toast is?
Probably opens up some possibilities under The Sweep...

ah ok, I thought you meant the vague cracks further left. You're describing something like a low sit start to the niche?

Burnt Toast is further right, up the steep wall. Further right again is trigonometry, which has had a rock pool under it for several years now!

[EdGowSmith]

Basically, yeah.
There also looked like a possibility for a problem underneath The Sweep? - though pebble heights might change the grade a lot.

Is there likely to be a fully extensive guide to the area coming out soon, as the only ones I have found don't cover many problems?

[Andy W]

Basically, yeah.
There also looked like a possibility for a problem underneath The Sweep? - though pebble heights might change the grade a lot.

Is there likely to be a fully extensive guide to the area coming out soon, as the only ones I have found don't cover many problems?

There is an up problem, underneath the sweep and pebble levels do change the grade a lot, usually its quite hard to get a crouch start, type thing going, but more potential at the moment it seems.

Guide wise, there is an old topo on blocspenwith which combined with the one in the UK bouldering guide covers most stuff. Although the print guide gets some stuff wrong. All enthusiasm for a printed guide deserted me a few years back, but might  emerge once I finish my PhD.

I'll be happy to fill in any gaps in the info you have.

[ben]

Is there likely to be a fully extensive guide to the area coming out soon, as the only ones I have found don't cover many problems?

a jooser - what about it ? the Clodgy one is so good     

I think I've probably done the sitter you're referring to before, but as you say those problems are so dependent on the pebble height it's hard to compare ascents/grades!   You should get Dan Varians project done to the L of the Sweep, that would raise Godrevys game 

[EdGowSmith]

Guide wise, there is an old topo on blocspenwith which combined with the one in the UK bouldering guide covers most stuff. Although the print guide gets some stuff wrong. All enthusiasm for a printed guide deserted me a few years back, but might  emerge once I finish my PhD.

I'll be happy to fill in any gaps in the info you have.

Yeah, I've looked at those two, but they both seem to miss out obvious lines that look good and must have been climbed.
Doesn't really matter too much though, as I think the documented problems will give me enough to do this week!

You should get Dan Varians project done to the L of the Sweep, that would raise Godrevys game 

That does look good, probably too hard for me though! Have many people attempted it?

[Andy W]

the other place to look for documentation of pretty much everything in the lower grades is John Hooper's guide

http://www.suesseals.eclipse.co.uk/Godrevy%20bouldering%20pdf.pdf

[granticus]

YYFY!  Finally did Mike's start to Monster Tide on Tuesday, here's some footage from the day with more Lynmouth classics in the mix.  It kind of marks a move back into harder bouldering for me, so super pleased

[Pantontino]

Nice work Grant! You were dead close that day we met, it was obvious it would go down soon.

I managed a quick session the day after. Had a good time but frustratingly couldn't top out Face Off. Could get the pocket on the slab with either hand but greased off each time (felt solid 7A+ to me but it was quite still and warm). Last thing I managed a consolation prize ascent of Cyclone, which has some very cool moves and nice holds.

[granticus]

Nice work Grant! You were dead close that day we met, it was obvious it would go down soon.

I managed a quick session the day after. Had a good time but frustratingly couldn't top out Face Off. Could get the pocket on the slab with either hand but greased off each time (felt solid 7A+ to me but it was quite still and warm). Last thing I managed a consolation prize ascent of Cyclone, which has some very cool moves and nice holds.

Cheers Simon, glad you managed to get a session in and great effort on Cyclone (I found it super reachy and hard)!  Good to get some input on grades, as the problems don't see much traffic and only have the opinion of a few.  I think we gave Face Off 7b originally, so maybe it should settle at 7a+.  Joker and the Thief is definitely a sandbag at 6c+, 7a or 7a+ maybe appropriate (although I have seen a slab master path it in trainers!).

[EdGowSmith]

Good video, and nice effort on the extension! Will be down in Lynmouth in a couple of days so certainly one to have a go at  

[Steamboat Stello]

Nice vid. I'm finally thinking of heading up on Saturday if anyone else is keen? High tide seems to be at 9am so approx how soon after high tide might things be accessible?

[Pantontino]

Face Off is burly, whichever way you do it. 7A+ seems right to me. I thought 7A right for Cyclone, but it is a bit reachy. I loved that little snatch off the poor sloper - great stuff!

Couple of shots of you on the Monster tide extension (the second one was sharp but Facebook seems to have blurred it - if you want a copy let me know):





(One last thing - that 25% hill dropping into Porlock on the way home was 'interesting' with a fully loaded van! Had to pump the brakes at one point to stay in control!!!)

[granticus]

Nice vid. I'm finally thinking of heading up on Saturday if anyone else is keen? High tide seems to be at 9am so approx how soon after high tide might things be accessible?

SS you need to give things time to dry off, the tides are massive on Saturday and there will be a fair size swell running.  I would recommend heading out around the time of low tide because whilst things maybe accessible 2 to 3 hours before low, they will still need a chance to get dry!

[EdGowSmith]

I'm finally thinking of heading up on Saturday if anyone else is keen?

Hi, me and a friend are going to be there on Saturday.
Low tide's at 3 so we'll be there from 12 until 6, roughly, if you want to meet us.

[granticus]

Good video, and nice effort on the extension! Will be down in Lynmouth in a couple of days so certainly one to have a go at

Enjoy, I'm off to Cardigan for a week on Saturday otherwise I would join you.  Your opinions on grades would be welcome as well Ed.

Face Off is burly, whichever way you do it. 7A+ seems right to me. I thought 7A right for Cyclone, but it is a bit reachy. I loved that little snatch off the poor sloper - great stuff!

Couple of shots of you on the Monster tide extension (the second one was sharp but Facebook seems to have blurred it - if you want a copy let me know):

(One last thing - that 25% hill dropping into Porlock on the way home was 'interesting' with a fully loaded van! Had to pump the brakes at one point to stay in control!!!)

Thanks, would be great to get copies, I will PM you my email address. 

Ahhh! He he...   Porlock hill the steepest bit of A road in the land, lovely drive over the top though, isn't it.

Brilliant to see the 'backwater' getting a bit of deserved attention. 

[EdGowSmith]

Your opinions on grades would be welcome as well Ed.

Haven't really climbed enough of the problems to be sure on what grades I would give them, though after this weekend I'll give some feedback.

I have to warn you though, my grading's not the best 

[granticus]

Your opinions on grades would be welcome as well Ed.

Haven't really climbed enough of the problems to be sure on what grades I would give them, though after this weekend I'll give some feedback.

I have to warn you though, my grading's not the best 

Don't worry Dave Westlake who did the first ascent of Monster Tide gave it 6b

[EdGowSmith]

6b? 

[Pantontino]

(One last thing - that 25% hill dropping into Porlock on the way home was 'interesting' with a fully loaded van! Had to pump the brakes at one point to stay in control!!!)

Thanks, would be great to get copies, I will PM you my email address. 

Ahhh! He he...   Porlock hill the steepest bit of A road in the land, lovely drive over the top though, isn't it.

Brilliant to see the 'backwater' getting a bit of deserved attention. 

We went to Lorna Doone and the kids had a swim in a deep pool further along the river - lovely spot, expected a Hobbit to pop out of the woods. I also did a little route on Castle Rock with my son after we met - good fun and a beautiful place but some of the rock was spookily hollow! Anyway, thanks for the recs.

[Steamboat Stello]

I'm finally thinking of heading up on Saturday if anyone else is keen?

Hi, me and a friend are going to be there on Saturday.
Low tide's at 3 so we'll be there from 12 until 6, roughly, if you want to meet us.

Excellent. I'm going to hopefully aim to get there for around 12 as well. If you spot an Ed burns look-a-like carrying an airpad that'll be me!

[EdGowSmith]

Alright 
We'll probably start around the Bum Cheeks boulder as that doesn't get touched (that) much by the sea, and then work our way towards the cave area as the tide goes out