the shizzle > diet, training and injuries
Feet on Campusing/Fingerboarding
Luke Owens:
--- Quote from: GuyVG on April 09, 2013, 11:27:17 am ---I'd be struggling to finish each set, after the 2nd or 3rd, but do finish them which seemed about right. I used to do 1min30 on with 4/5 minutes rest and do this 4 times but I couldn't really complete this at all, also got told the rest was too long.
--- End quote ---
Does your workout take about 2 hours? Each set about 15 minutes x 5 plus the 10 minutes rest x 5. Sounds killer!
Wood FT:
it's never felt that long but yeah it should be that time, blimey :blink: times flies down t'wall.
Luke Owens:
OK so I'm attempting to get some structure to my endurance training and at the same time trying my best to understand the energy systems.
I have a plan for working all the systems in different sessions it's just how to order these over an 8 week (to long to short?) period.
Please correct me if these are incorrect:
AeroCap - Low intensity - 20 - 30 minutes moving hangs resting on jugs to keep intensity low.
AnCap - 30 moves 2 mins rest x 3 - Rest 10 minutes complete 5 sets.
AeroPower - 20 moves, 20 sec rest x 3 - rest 20 secs complete 3 sets.
AnPower - 10 moves, 10 sec rest x 4 - 10 sec rest complete 4 sets.
Am I in the right direction with these?
I'm wondering how to fit these into a cycle. I was thinking:
Week 1 - 4 - AeroCap x 2/3, AnCap x 2 (per week)
Week 4 - 8 - AeroCap x 1, AnCap x 1, AeroPower x 1, Anpower x 1 (per week)
All these will be in addition to actual outdoor climbing twice a week. I'm hoping I can figure out something to train the above using the feet on fingerboarding technique in my previous posts.
I've no idea if the above makes sense, but I hope I'm in the right direction. Any advice would be appreciated.
Cheers
Rocksteady:
I find it quite hard putting this stuff together too.
But what I remember from Binney's paper (on the wiki)
Aerocap needs 2 months for adaptions to take effect
Ancap takes 4 months to take effect
Aeropow takes around 1-2 months and Anpow takes a similar amount.
So Ancap is something to be trained long term, Aerocap is a base on which to build a 2 month programme of aeropow, anpow.
jstrongman:
Hi Luke
I started doing this about 3 weeks ago leading on from the two month endurance thread. I started pretty much where you are, (sets of about 1.30-1.40 and totally blasted). I changed my target to 2 mins on 3 mins off, after about a week and a half I achieved a full set of 3 x 2 mins, then have been adding 15 seconds as I have got fitter and am now doing sets of 3 x 2.30 on 3 mins rest. The transfer to outside has been the amazing and I have found it has given me the extra bit to finish things off, rather than powerout and fall off the last hard move.
I have found the exercise gets more painful as you get fitter, as you can push further and further into the pump and it also gets more boring as you are on the campus board for longer. I have started to experiment with doing more of a routine to make it a bit more interesting and more like climbing, which has been good but you get pumped quicker again so may save that until I reach 3x3mins
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