the shizzle > diet, training and injuries
Feet on Campusing/Fingerboarding
Luke Owens:
I did do a search and found the odd bit of info on this type of PE training but could only find one thread specifically to do with it which had little info.
I've read people have had good PE gains from doing this and I was wondering what peoples workout's are like? The ones I've found are quite different such as:
1. 30 Moves then 2 minutes rest x 5
2. 3 Minutes on 3 Minutes off x 10
3. 1 Minute on 1 Minute rest repeat until failure
What are your opinions on going until failure as opposed to getting pumped stupid and stopping for a rest just before completely burn out?
I know it's all relative to what you want to gain out of it. In my case I'm looking to incorporate this 3 times a week at home. I have a 20mm campus rung under my BM2000. Starting matched on the rung then moving up to the 25's then to the 30mm outside BM slots then back down to the rung, repeat etc.
I've climbed plenty of F7a's, a F7a+ and a F7b. I've only managed these because they've suited me well (not steep) and most have very good rest spots with short hard sections. I know I'd have no chance at a pumpy 6c!
I'm bouldering at 7A now and I know I'm strong enough for the moves up to F7b/+'s it's just the harrowing pump and powering out stopping me progressing.
Interestingly, yesterday my girlfriend and I challenged each other to see who could stay on the longest using the above feet on campus rung fingerboard combo. She managed 1 Minute 50 secs only having to dig deep in the last 10 secs. I managed 1 Minute 10 secs and I was gurning like crazy within the first 40 secs... and she "only" climbs F6a...!
I've chose this method of training due to being able to do it at home and having limited time. Any time I get to go outdoors i'll take rather than doing circuits in a gym for example.
It's an obvious weakness of mine so any advice would be great.
Cheers
Wood FT:
5 x 40 moves, 2 minutes rest between. 5 sets with 10 minutes rest between, doing this twice a week. Really helped on my last trip and something i'll be continuing to do, I don't find it too boring really. . .
--- Quote from: Luke Owens on April 09, 2013, 10:15:47 am ---I'm bouldering at 7A now and I know I'm strong enough for the moves up to F7b/+'s it's just the harrowing pump and powering out stopping me progressing.
--- End quote ---
Apologies if this isn't you but sorting your head might help? I found that teaching myself to climb effectively when pumped was really important, to be able to breathe and not panic becuase the lactic was coming on. I've always been jealous of my mates who 'ride the pump' and love the fight so I'm trying to embrace it. I don't know how you'd go about this on your fingerboard set-up though.
Luke Owens:
--- Quote from: GuyVG on April 09, 2013, 11:27:17 am ---5 x 40 moves, 2 minutes rest between. 5 sets with 10 minutes rest between, doing this twice a week. Really helped on my last trip and something I'll be continuing to do, I don't find it too boring really. . .
--- End quote ---
Thanks for the reply, that workout sounds good, as I tried the 3mins on 3 mins off and I could only manage 1 minute 10. Think I'd manage the 40 moves. Sounds good, surprisingly I don't find it boring either, feels quite addictive actually...
Do you complete the whole workout (feeling boxed I imagine) or go until failure?
--- Quote from: GuyVG on April 09, 2013, 11:27:17 am ---
Apologies if this isn't you but sorting your head might help? I found that teaching myself to climb effectively when pumped was really important, to be able to breathe and not panic because the lactic was coming on. I've always been jealous of my mates who 'ride the pump' and love the fight so I'm trying to embrace it. I don't know how you'd go about this on your fingerboard setup though.
--- End quote ---
I did wonder this and put it to the test when I went out on Sunday, I deliberately got on a pumpy 7a, which starts on steep moves to get the pump going straight away, I was making it to the last bolt and concentrating on fighting the pump to the point where I litrally came off because I couldn't hold on. I think the feet on stuff will be good for mentally fighting the pump too.
I'll focus on climbing efficiently when the lactic is burning too, as I have a tendency to go a bit scrappy with the feet when I'm on the edge!
standard:
I've used the system that ste mac suggests, which is 1,1,4,6,6,4,2,1,1, switch leading arm.
http://rockclimbinguk.co.uk/steve-mcclure-on-training-power-endurance/
It seems to work well for me.
However, this has wrecked my skin, particularly my pinky, as when super pumped towards the end, I start slapping and dragging heavily.
I've had to tape my pinky to avoid this.
Wood FT:
--- Quote from: Luke Owens on April 09, 2013, 11:41:43 am ---
--- Quote from: GuyVG on April 09, 2013, 11:27:17 am ---5 x 40 moves, 2 minutes rest between. 5 sets with 10 minutes rest between, doing this twice a week. Really helped on my last trip and something I'll be continuing to do, I don't find it too boring really. . .
--- End quote ---
Thanks for the reply, that workout sounds good, as I tried the 3mins on 3 mins off and I could only manage 1 minute 10. Think I'd manage the 40 moves. Sounds good, surprisingly I don't find it boring either, feels quite addictive actually...
Do you complete the whole workout (feeling boxed I imagine) or go until failure?
--- End quote ---
I'd be struggling to finish each set, after the 2nd or 3rd, but do finish them which seemed about right. I used to do 1min30 on with 4/5 minutes rest and do this 4 times but I couldn't really complete this at all, also got told the rest was too long.
--- Quote ---as I have a tendency to go a bit scrappy with the feet when I'm on the edge!
--- End quote ---
everyone loves a good gipppin' finish
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