UKBouldering.com

Customisable Climbing Shoes (Read 5901 times)

micdesign

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 2
  • Karma: +0/-0
Customisable Climbing Shoes
April 13, 2013, 01:57:58 pm
Hi,
I'm a sport design student + amateur climber thinking about doing my project next year on climbing shoes. If I could have your thoughts on this question I be really grateful.

If you could customise a climbing shoe what would you want control over?

Cheers
Mic

erm, sam

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1315
  • Karma: +57/-3
#1 Re: Customisable Climbing Shoes
April 13, 2013, 03:24:08 pm
Ha, just to be annoying: I wouldn't want to customise my shoes. They are much to complicated and difficult and I'd rather leave experts to do the best they can and then choose who has done the best job.

Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5795
  • Karma: +231/-4
#2 Re: Customisable Climbing Shoes
April 13, 2013, 03:26:52 pm
Width

Moo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Is an idiot
  • Posts: 1451
  • Karma: +84/-6
#3 Re: Customisable Climbing Shoes
April 13, 2013, 03:37:19 pm
stiffness and rand tension

Stubbs

  • Guest
#4 Re: Customisable Climbing Shoes
April 13, 2013, 05:18:34 pm
Rubber thickness and coverage (i.e. over toe box etc.)

Closure mechanism

Mike Tyson

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2075
  • Karma: +94/-2
#5 Re: Customisable Climbing Shoes
April 13, 2013, 05:46:14 pm
.If you could customise a climbing shoe what would you want control over?

The entire construction process therefore allowing me to recreate an exact replica of the La Sportiva Venoms I miss so dearly  :(

On a serious note, and specific to me, I would want a lower volume, slimmer fitting slipper or velcro boot. Sensitivity is key for me, as is basic stickiness hence why I miss the Venoms so much.

psychomansam

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1179
  • Karma: +66/-11
#6 Re: Customisable Climbing Shoes
April 13, 2013, 05:51:37 pm
type of rubber
thickness of rubber
stiffness (some have boards in)
width
volume
closure
upper material
colour
degree of downturn

Actually, one area which is currently shit for most people on most shoes is the heel. Would prob need to have a mold of your heel taken though!

lukeh

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 114
  • Karma: +3/-0
#7 Re: Customisable Climbing Shoes
April 13, 2013, 07:46:41 pm
Toe box

Drew

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Am I really a
  • Posts: 1739
  • Karma: +36/-4
#8 Re: Customisable Climbing Shoes
April 13, 2013, 09:12:58 pm
I can't decide if you're asking

1. If there was one aspect of a single shoe which could be changed (e.g. the heel rand being on a buckle to tighten or loosen it), which one part of the fit would benefit most from being adaptable?

Or

2. If you could buy a pair or climbing shoes where one aspect was selectable at time of purchase (e.g. heel rand at tension set to 1, 2, or 3 - all of which are meaningless numbers but something you could choose between) which one part of the fit would benefit most from being adaptable?


I initially thought 1, but most answers seem to answering as if 2.

micdesign

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 2
  • Karma: +0/-0
#9 Re: Customisable Climbing Shoes
April 14, 2013, 12:04:26 pm
Its more 2. So if you were buying a pair of shoes and you could customize them on an online interface (example. Nike ID except you actually get to adjust the performance of the shoe and not just change the colors and write your name on it and then pay a ridiculous about of money for it). Features like toe box shape, rubber thickness, down turn can be given actual values.
 

crimp

  • Guest
#10 Re: Customisable Climbing Shoes
April 14, 2013, 12:41:28 pm
For me.

Sole stiffness.
I struggle to find a good stiff edging shoe at my size.

Toe knuckle width.
Most way too tight, and can ruin a good day out.

Heel cup tension.
I usually find them too loose. And the option of a cushioned or uncushioned heel. Some like them, some don't.

These seem to affect people with bigger feet. I am street shoe size 11, and people i know with smaller feet seem to find better fitting stickies.

Incidentally, the old la sportiva tao were the best shoe i ever had for my feet. I miss them so i do.
« Last Edit: April 14, 2013, 12:58:37 pm by Adge »

Wipey Why

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1403
  • Karma: +52/-0
#11 Re: Customisable Climbing Shoes
April 16, 2013, 09:44:12 am
On a serious note, and specific to me, I would want a lower volume, slimmer fitting slipper or velcro boot. Sensitivity is key for me, as is basic stickiness hence why I miss the Venoms so much.

Have you tried these?


thrashhard

Offline
  • **
  • player
  • Posts: 77
  • Karma: +2/-0
#12 Re: Customisable Climbing Shoes
April 17, 2013, 08:23:44 am
Ha, just to be annoying: I wouldn't want to customise my shoes. They are much to complicated and difficult and I'd rather leave experts to do the best they can and then choose who has done the best job.


Besides the fact that there are at least a hundred brand new bouldering boots on the market that fit your need...
http://bergshop.com/9,30ac4b8c-5c0f-4f6b-8b6e-28f95021c505.vcs

If you need size 40,5; 43 or 43,5 there you go. Write them and beg them to ship to the UK.


SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29300
  • Karma: +635/-12
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#13 Re: Customisable Climbing Shoes
April 17, 2013, 10:13:24 am
Simple request; being able to buy pairs of shoes that are different sizes. Large proportion of the population has one foot bigger than the other.

Other than that; more bling!

JohnM

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 911
  • Karma: +71/-0
#14 Re: Customisable Climbing Shoes
April 17, 2013, 11:33:06 am
I'd like flashing led's in the midsole like LA lights trainers.

thrashhard

Offline
  • **
  • player
  • Posts: 77
  • Karma: +2/-0
#15 Re: Customisable Climbing Shoes
April 17, 2013, 02:45:02 pm
Simple request; being able to buy pairs of shoes that are different sizes. Large proportion of the population has one foot bigger than the other.

Other than that; more bling!

Evolv does that. But i think only for US Customers

danm

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 829
  • Karma: +112/-1
#16 Re: Customisable Climbing Shoes
April 17, 2013, 03:19:43 pm
Getting a totally custom fit would be awesome. Imagine this: download Custom RockshoeTM app onto smartphone, take photos using app of both feet, calibrated measurements get emailed to manufacturer including your options for stiffness, rubber, design features etc. Perfectly fitting shoes arrive by post a week later.

andy_e

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8836
  • Karma: +275/-42
#17 Re: Customisable Climbing Shoes
April 17, 2013, 03:21:30 pm
yeah, then a week later, the bailiffs arrive because you can't keep up with repayments  on the loan you took out to buy those expensive rock boots! :tease:

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29300
  • Karma: +635/-12
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#18 Re: Customisable Climbing Shoes
April 17, 2013, 03:25:10 pm
Simple request; being able to buy pairs of shoes that are different sizes. Large proportion of the population has one foot bigger than the other.

Other than that; more bling!

Evolv does that. But i think only for US Customers

What, the bling or the odd feet?

thrashhard

Offline
  • **
  • player
  • Posts: 77
  • Karma: +2/-0
#19 Re: Customisable Climbing Shoes
April 17, 2013, 03:29:13 pm
considering on how evolv shoes usually look, they do both. Bling and different sizes.

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29300
  • Karma: +635/-12
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#20 Re: Customisable Climbing Shoes
April 17, 2013, 03:32:48 pm
Didn't one of the fashion designers do some climbing shoes once?

sidewinder

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 351
  • Karma: +11/-0
#21 Re: Customisable Climbing Shoes
April 17, 2013, 03:33:38 pm
Think they used to do both:
bling via evolv xy, now discontinued (but from this post options other than colour were available).

and from here

Quote
As with all Evolv shoes, split-sizing for people whose feet are different sizes, costs an extra $30

In fact here, suggests you could do pretty much everything the original poster suggested with the xy program.

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29300
  • Karma: +635/-12
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#22 Re: Customisable Climbing Shoes
April 17, 2013, 04:22:18 pm
In fact here, suggests you could do pretty much everything the original poster suggested with the xy program.

Looks like it. Maybe switch project to some circular devices to allow people continual motion by bicycle? :)

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal