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Mo' from Mo
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Bonjoy
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Leafy gent
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Mo' from Mo
May 26, 2004, 09:58:47 am
From Planetfear news:
"Mo Overfield added another boulder problem to the Peak on Saturday. It's at Yarncliffe of all places, and is the ideal post work problem being just two minutes stroll from your car.
Them! is V10 or 11, and named after the B&W B-Movie about giant ants, you'll see what he means if you go to Yarncliffe…
It takes the arête and wall the other side of Crème de la Crème, via old bolt head, pocket and undercut to ledge. Jump off. Quite highball, but the landing is excellent, being on grass. It's a real five star classic.
Also to keep records straight, he did another mini problem on the Intense buttress at Burbage South. I'm Tense, V8, starts in the obvious pocket, goes up and left via undercut and tiny sidepull to finish with both hands on juggy ledge. "
And from the man himself:
"I can hand on heart say it is of the highest quality, and well worth stopping off to do. You are right the Grove was a complete piece of crap, and I should really know better, the trouble is it was the only thing around at the time of Foot and Mouth. Hopefully it will drift into obscurity.
Seriously, though, Them! is five stars, every move is tricky on really solid rock above a lovely grassy landing. The only thing is that it uses an old bolt head for a hold, so I suppose that it counts as a point of aid? The second ascent still awaits, so if you go and do it let me know what grade you think it is as I am rubbish at grading."
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Doylo
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#1 Mo' from Mo
May 26, 2004, 10:33:29 am
Quote
as I am rubbish at grading
he can say that again
hard bouldering at yarncliffe, whatever next!
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Bubba
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#2 Mo' from Mo
May 26, 2004, 10:59:53 am
Aid on boulder problems, whatever next!!
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unclesomebody
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1-5-NEIN!
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more business, less party.
#3 Mo' from Mo
May 26, 2004, 08:23:14 pm
This has now been freed! I'll let the youth himself spill the beans. Well good effort by James!
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Johnny Brown
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#4 Mo' from Mo
May 26, 2004, 09:38:14 pm
yeah I heard that too. And even removing the aid point, he don't reckon it ain't no mo than V9...
if this continues, Mase n P diddy will be releasin a follow up... 'mo overgrade, mo problems'.... 'yo tell me who's hot who's not...'
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james
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#5 Mo' from Mo
May 26, 2004, 10:41:14 pm
No hate campaign, just fancied a crack. This was a good problem, would be a very good problem if not for the varnishy??? substance on the lower arete.
I was wanting to keep it quiet, ah well. I cant beleive how fast news got out, may i ask how you all found out (excluding uncle, as he was there).
Not got rid of the bolt yet.
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a dense loner
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#6 Mo' from Mo
May 26, 2004, 10:51:13 pm
u're not strong enuf to get that bolt out :wink:
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Doylo
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#7 Mo' from Mo
May 26, 2004, 10:51:31 pm
How hard then darse? Luckily for Mo overgrading isn't a crime or he'd be doing a life sentence :D
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a dense loner
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#8 Mo' from Mo
May 26, 2004, 10:53:23 pm
they wud throw away the key
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dave
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#9 Mo' from Mo
May 26, 2004, 10:57:34 pm
to be fair on Meaux, he's not that tall so that can account fo' a lot of grade difference. and the beard can't help.
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Doylo
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#10 Mo' from Mo
May 26, 2004, 10:58:50 pm
James isn't exactly daddy longlegs either
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dave
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#11 Mo' from Mo
May 26, 2004, 11:01:23 pm
aye, but i'm sure mo could get onto the kiddies rides at alton towers though.
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Doylo
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#12 Mo' from Mo
May 26, 2004, 11:07:11 pm
i just hit 500 posts and i finish uni tommorrow, its turning out to be a momentous week :
Nearly the big 4000 for you Dave eh, you'll be able to get a t-shirt with 'sad bastard' written on it then
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dave
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#13 Mo' from Mo
May 26, 2004, 11:08:55 pm
you're only jealous.
maybe one day you can be this good.
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Percy B
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#14 Mo' from Mo
May 27, 2004, 09:31:59 am
Its amazes me that everybody is prepared to take one (very strong fingered, admittedly) youth's opinion on the grade of this as gospel!
I saw James dispatch, and he thought the original version was V9, the new version sans bolt V10. This is his opinion. Both myself and the big Septic (Mr Chase) both had a 'do' on this last night and thought that its probably V10 - with or without the bolt, although using said relic is pretty bad form.
Mo originally gave the problem V10, although in his excitement up-ed the ante slightly to the mighty V11. However, he was on the money with the original grade in my opinion.
What-ever, another classic piece of esoterica for you all to try. Depressingly the first move is the crux, and if you've got big fingers it feels very hard to stick the pocket.
Grades should be formed by consensus, not by one persons opinion. Coupled with the fact that a strong fingered bouncy person like the youth is so strong he probably wouldn't know a V9 if it bit him on the arse! :wink:
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dave
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#15 Mo' from Mo
May 27, 2004, 11:09:28 am
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Doylo
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#16 Mo' from Mo
May 27, 2004, 12:23:08 pm
Quote
he probably wouldn't know a V9 if it bit him on the arse!
or a v13!
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Brian C
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#17 Mo' from Mo
May 27, 2004, 04:23:40 pm
in mo's defense, not that he needs it:
he thought Them! was 10-11 and it seems 10ish to me. developing consensus and all that.
and, if i remember correctly, the original (admittedly contrived) V13 sequence for the Grove was not repeated.
Slingshot hasn't exactly seen a slew of repeats either.
So easy to talk trash on the net
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Doylo
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#18 Mo' from Mo
May 27, 2004, 10:45:15 pm
My mate si went and did it today, did it swift so he thought maybe v9 but very good. Good work mo on finding a cracker!
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a dense loner
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#19 Mo' from Mo
May 27, 2004, 10:56:18 pm
hmm
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a dense loner
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#20 Mo' from Mo
May 27, 2004, 11:23:39 pm
think you'll find bo groove hasn't been repeated the original way cos it doesn't need to be. slingshot is at froggatt, who goes to froggatt? if this floats mo's boat fair enuf but not everyone has the same tastes. have heard new prob is ace, so nice one mo.
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irish si
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#21 Mo' from Mo
May 27, 2004, 11:33:33 pm
ha ha nice tweak dense!
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dave
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#22 Mo' from Mo
May 28, 2004, 11:15:27 am
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irish si
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#23 Mo' from Mo
May 28, 2004, 12:06:26 pm
yeah nice one mo, its well good, cant believe no one has mentioned it before. the climbing is ace, snatchy and of good quality.
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Greg C
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#24 Mo' from Mo
May 29, 2004, 10:24:37 pm
Fucking hell Si what you doing going rock climbing outside? You'll catch yer death of cold! Did you get locked out of the school or summat
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