[Fiend]

In Barca next week and determined to burn off the inevitable and welcome 200kg of tapas consumption by hitting El Cogul for a day. I know it's not Font but it's there and that's good enough for me. Any pro-tips for the solitary punter - V2-V6 - with no pad and no spotter??

Also is there any cheap/free topo information available?? Am trying to borrow a friend's Catalunya Climbs but don't fancy dropping 2-3 fuck alls just for one day in one area.

Ta 

[Paul B]

Its in the e-bloc guide I think (if you can scrounge a copy).

[Fiend]

Aye all 32 Euros-worth of it! Am on the scrounge mission at the mo...

[Oldmanmatt]

Skip El Cogul and go to Savassona! Closer to BCN and better climbing on flat ground.
El Cogul is on steep ground and solo even with a pad, is hard. Both are in the E-bloc. And get on "Half past Rome", brilliant, though it took me ump-teen visits to make any real progress...

[Oldmanmatt]

Oh, there's a separate more detailed guide for Savassona. It's bigger than the E-Bloc implies as that just covers the oldest sector.

[Fiend]

Cheers will look into that.

[Oldmanmatt]

El Cogul, dramatic? Yep. Exposed and steep? Oh, yeah!


Untitled (2013-03-29 09:49:09) by oldmanmatt, on Flickr


Savassona, shady meadows, sandy landings, stable rock, stunning setting, good parking and only one hour north of BCN.
More "Font" like than Spanish as it sits on the southern slopes of the Pyrenees.

 
Untitled (2013-03-29 09:50:39) by oldmanmatt, on Flickr


Untitled (2013-03-29 09:50:03) by oldmanmatt, on Flickr

As for the Guide, I'm a bit far to get it to you in time, what with Easter weekend etc (and with it being buried in the loft somewhere, after the recent move). There are usually a few groups there, they are usually friendly and I always managed to blag a spot, often joined up with other groups and almost never had the place to my self, even midweek. I only discovered the dedicated guide by joining up with a bunch of lads who'd got one still in the plastic wrapper.

[Andy W]

For a days worth of bouldering I would suggest Savassona. Its more concentrated, better landings, etc.

[TonyS]

if you are looking just for a day trip then Can Bouqet is even closer, 30km up the coast, Sector classic would be a good area and would have enough to keep you going.

Topo was online.

[Oldmanmatt]

Yeah... But.

The granite is so friable that it's mostly Sika. Sharp as crimping on the edge of a broken CD and limited compared to either of the others.

[TonyS]

Yeah... But.

The granite is so friable that it's mostly Sika. Sharp as crimping on the edge of a broken CD and limited compared to either of the others.

Erm yes well that is something like what you said when I was asking for details a few years back.  But I went took 3 freinds had 4 days there and did not even see all the areas.

I thought CB was better than savasona, but yes I will agree the granite is somewhat harsh on the finger tips.

With regards sika, I can only remember seeing one problem that had been obviously glued up but it is 2 years since my last visit.

[Oldmanmatt]

Yeah, guess granite's not my favourite... (Bummer living on Dartmoor, but hey).
We used to have a problem with the under brush there too, but they (you know "them") did a major cut back in late 2010 and early 2011. Not sure if it's been maintained as I've not been back here since summer 2011.
It was the default, mid week evening crag, for me. So maybe it just palled.

And I got we'll hacked off with making sod all progress on Biceps power (iirc the problem name, way over my grade, but always looked like it should go).

[TonyS]

Hi Oldmanmatt,

It's funny how going somewhere day in day out, week in week out, can sometimes put a cloud over a certain area.

I have been in this situation, then moved out of the area, only to be dragged back by new freinds, to find the place is not that bad after all.

Biceps I think is one of those problems it looks great and no where near its grade but it is hard and is well worth every grade point it gets.  This problem saw one ascent in our visit, which was the first day, first boulder and it took all his effort to get up it.  Thank god he did or we could have spent 4 days at this boulder alone know how stubborn he is.

Anyway hope your enjoying dartmoor, its not as sharp as CB so just keep telling yourself it could be worse

[Wood FT]

In Barca next week and determined to burn off the inevitable and welcome 200kg of tapas consumption by hitting El Cogul for a day. I know it's not Font but it's there and that's good enough for me. Any pro-tips for the solitary punter - V2-V6 - with no pad and no spotter??

Also is there any cheap/free topo information available?? Am trying to borrow a friend's Catalunya Climbs but don't fancy dropping 2-3 fuck alls just for one day in one area.

Ta 

Hey Fiend,

Don't know if you've gone already but we climbed padless at El cogul on sunday, only climbed in one area but what we did was low grade fun. Very hot in the sun but managed to find some shady walls around. The rock seems quite hollow but sound in the main. as you walk past the Almond(?) plantation there is a 7A compression prow on the left hillside and further up this hillside a very impressive roof with friendly holds but a bastard hard 7B (among others). In the obvious boulder cluster we found a gully with nice thin wall/slabs problems on either side (font 5 to font 7A)

In short; worth a punt, there are some cave paintings round the corner as well for a cultural tick.

Have a good one!

p.s watch your car on the way in, dirt track shenanigans