[abarro81]

Alex Megos just onsighted 9a! Estado critico - siurana
http://desnivel.com/escalada-roca/alex-megos-consigue-en-siurana-el-primer-9a-a-vista-de-la-historia

[shark]

Alex Megos just onsighted 9a! Estado critico - siurana
http://desnivel.com/escalada-roca/alex-megos-consigue-en-siurana-el-primer-9a-a-vista-de-la-historia

 


Time to unstick the Ondrawad thread ?

[Fiend]

LOL yeah get that Czech punter out of here!

[Luke Owens]

Alex Megos just onsighted 9a! Estado critico - siurana
http://desnivel.com/escalada-roca/alex-megos-consigue-en-siurana-el-primer-9a-a-vista-de-la-historia

Wow! I really didn't expect anyone other than Ondra to be the first!

Hell of an effort from Megos!

[Doylo]

This is the point where half the ascentionists of Estado turn around and say, i always said it was 8c+ 
Historic!

[masonwoods101]

quote from the link.... "Precisely Andrada himself commented at the time that it was "perhaps 8c + or 8c + / 9a", something that also coincided Favresse"

[masonwoods101]

upon further google translatin it looks like as many say 9a though... id take the 9a

[slackline]

upon further google translatin it looks like as many say 9a though... id take the 9a

All in one

[abarro81]

Hold broke a couple of years ago (or 'dam break' according to translate) so I think everyone's been taking 9a since then

[shark]

This is the point where half the ascentionists of Estado turn around and say, i always said it was 8c+ 
Historic!

Ondra gave it 8c+ on his 8a.nu scorecard when he did it in 2007 and said "Never 9a. 3 go"

Patxi gave it 8c+ in 2007 too

[Doylo]

This is the point where half the ascentionists of Estado turn around and say, i always said it was 8c+ 
Historic!

Ondra gave it 8c+ on his 8a.nu scorecard when he did it in 2007 and said "Never 9a. 3 go"

Patxi gave it 8c+ in 2007 too

Sounds like this needs to go to the Committee. I wonder what Bonnington thinks...

[shark]

This is the point where half the ascentionists of Estado turn around and say, i always said it was 8c+ 
Historic!

Ondra gave it 8c+ on his 8a.nu scorecard when he did it in 2007 and said "Never 9a. 3 go"

Patxi gave it 8c+ in 2007 too

Sounds like this needs to go to the Committee. I wonder what Bonnington thinks...

He won't last a day at base camp with those legs

[abarro81]

Hold broke a few years ago I think. This is attributed to Ondra on the 8a forum:
"The hold was not a resting jug, but it helped. Before Estado Critico was
more of an endurance problem, now there is a definite crux (but for
Golpe it is not the crux). Estado Critico is now significantly harder,
from 8c+ to 9a. Golpe de Estado is harder just a little. I had been
really worried about this move, but the move itself felt easier while
linking than normally while working. But I fell one more time even
higher.  If Chris had had doubts about the classification, so now it’s
surely at least 9b."

[Muenchener]

Original source for the Ondra quote.

Saw Alex bouldering at one of the local walls just before he left for the States: pretty inspiring (though not sufficiently so to get me up my project)

[petejh]

So typical of climbing!   The historic, groundbreaking first 9a onsight that everyone's been waiting for, and it can't even be ascertained if he's actually done a 9a. Sometimes I sympathise with Jens Larsen's autistic drive for order, but then I snap out of it.  It wouldn't happen in cycling...

[Doylo]

Is the nature of the game! When someone breaks the 100 metre record you don't have to trawl through old Internet posts to have it confirmed or not.

[Danny]

Is the nature of the game! When someone breaks the 100 metre record you don't have to trawl through old Internet posts to have it confirmed or not.

But, sadly, some folks have to trawl through the compounds present in the blood and urine of the new record holder, whilst pundits and the media speculate on footage of how fucking wired they looked after such and such a race.

[Doylo]

Some words from the youth:
http://dmmclimbing.com/news/2013/03/the-worlds-first-9a-onsight/

[crimp]

Some words from the youth:
http://dmmclimbing.com/news/2013/03/the-worlds-first-9a-onsight/

and another interview here

http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=40740&utm_source=dlvr.it&utm_medium=twitter

[Danny]

Apparently Megos has done La Rambla...second go after falling from the last two moves on the flash.

Astonished.

Someone needs to get the boy a sticky-wad thread, quickly.

[JMB]

He needs to try the Biographie flash next.

[Jaspersharpe]

Fuck!

[Doylo]

A few weeks ago when Ondra was crushing I thought things couldn't get any sillier. They did.....

[Andy B]

 We climbed a bit with Alex in Hueco recently. He's got one of the best attitudes towards climbing that I've come across. No big ego, no entourage or film crew, no shouting about in triumph or tantrums, just calmly and pleasantly ticking everything.

[TobyD]

I saw part of the ascent from across the valley, but didn't realise what i was looking at at the time...

Amazing effort and a nice guy. Rambla second go wasn't bad either.

[lukeyboy]

A Muerte (9a) second go as well... the boy is on fire!

[Nibile]

A Muerte (9a) second go as well... the boy is on fire!

What? After the 9a onsight, now 9a second go?
He's already getting worse!
Sunset boulevard.
Has-been wad.
End of career.
Plus, tiny hands, weighs 30 kilos, if I had the same time to dedicate to climbing I'd do the same, and it's Spanish grades.
Pah.
 

[SA Chris]

Did you have tiny hands and weigh 30 kg too?

[Richie Crouch]

Lore's forearms weigh about 30kg each! 

[petejh]

He's definitely peaked, sad really. Too much too young.

 

[Wood FT]

New hero of mine. Watching him trying to flash L'odi Social at Cam piqi-Pugi, falling off, dogging to the top and sending next go without any fuss or shouting was humbling. Also from what he was like on the top half of La Rambla it didnt look like he had been on it after failing to flash, 9a+ ground up scenes. A proper Limbs Mckenzie though....

[cowboyhat]

A proper Limbs Mckenzie though....

you mean like this?

http://www.mckenziesp.com/LIMB-33-P11951C1922.aspx

What DO you mean?

[Wood FT]

A proper Limbs Mckenzie though....

you mean like this?

http://www.mckenziesp.com/LIMB-33-P11951C1922.aspx

What DO you mean?

I mean he has long limbs and a small body, like those spindly crag spiders you get round dusty lime crags. I was playing on the Tits McGee phrase but had forgot this is an in-joke (in crowd of 1).

[krymson]

Here is a great interview from RCUK where he talks about onsighting:
http://rockclimbinguk.co.uk/alex-megos-hard-onsight-climbing/

[Jaspersharpe]

Megos has done the FA of a 9a+ in the Jura, bolted by Bindhammer and attempted by Bock amongst others. Sounds like he smashed it, "3 days" but actually a quick look a year and a half ago, a few tries on the Thursday evening and then did it 1st go Friday. Amusingly translated here:

http://translate.google.com/translate?depth=1&hl=en&ie=UTF8&prev=_t&rurl=translate.google.com&sl=de&tl=en&u=http://www.frankenjura.com/klettern/news/artikel/902

 

[krymson]

"As if not the laws of gravity applied to him", Megos has succeeded on Pantera 9a  in one day

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68057

[slackline]

Well done Alex, the mans on fire. 

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68057

What a piss-poor write-up by Björn Pohl. 

[SA Chris]

Is it time top set up a stickied Megoswad? He doesn't have the same profile as Ondra (yet) so don't always hear what he's been up to.

[slackline]

This thread suffices, whether its stuck to the top of the sub-forum or not.

[rosmat]

What a piss-poor write-up by Björn Pohl. 

+1 Agreed - couldn't have put it better myself.

[SA Chris]

This thread suffices, whether its stuck to the top of the sub-forum or not.

Thanks boss.

[Muenchener]

This thread suffices, whether its stuck to the top of the sub-forum or not.

The front page of frankenjura.com pretty much suffices at the moment, until he gets it into his head to go off and tcik another hundred 8a-and-upwards routes in a month somewhere else

[Nibile]

Oh come on guys, are you all on crack?
He went down from 9a onsight to 9a second go to 9a in a day!
In two weeks he'll be projecting the warm up circuit on my board.
 

[Nibile]

P.s. obviously there is no such thing as a warm up circuit on my board.

On a side note, I think that it must be amazing to witness such climbers doing their thing.

[Muenchener]

He went down from Catalan 9a onsight to 9a second go to Frankenjura 9a in a day!

sounds about right 

[Nibile]

  nasty!

[Doylo]

At this rate of decline he'll be redpointing 8a in 6 months...

[Fiend]

P.s. obviously there is no such thing as a warm up circuit on my board.

LOL, nice one, keeping it 

[krymson]

do we need a  dedicated MegoWad thread?

http://www.verticallifemag.com.au/2013/07/alex-megos-makes-short-work-of-the-wheel-of-life/

[GCW]

I hadn't realised he'd on sighted Action Directe.........

[Muenchener]

famous for onsighting what is potentially the world’s first 9a

Perhaps they mean Hubble?