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Alex Megos 9a onsight and more (Read 22345 times)

abarro81

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#2 Re: Alex Megos 9a onsight and more
March 25, 2013, 01:09:23 pm
LOL yeah get that Czech punter out of here!

Luke Owens

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#3 Re: Alex Megos 9a onsight and more
March 25, 2013, 01:10:34 pm
Alex Megos just onsighted 9a! Estado critico - siurana
http://desnivel.com/escalada-roca/alex-megos-consigue-en-siurana-el-primer-9a-a-vista-de-la-historia

Wow! I really didn't expect anyone other than Ondra to be the first!

Hell of an effort from Megos!

Doylo

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#4 Re: Alex Megos 9a onsight and more
March 25, 2013, 01:15:21 pm
This is the point where half the ascentionists of Estado turn around and say, i always said it was 8c+  :P :P
Historic!

masonwoods101

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#5 Re: Alex Megos 9a onsight and more
March 25, 2013, 01:32:04 pm
quote from the link.... "Precisely Andrada himself commented at the time that it was "perhaps 8c + or 8c + / 9a", something that also coincided Favresse"

masonwoods101

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#6 Re: Alex Megos 9a onsight and more
March 25, 2013, 01:34:15 pm
upon further google translatin it looks like as many say 9a though... id take the 9a

slackline

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#7 Re: Alex Megos 9a onsight and more
March 25, 2013, 01:39:24 pm
upon further google translatin it looks like as many say 9a though... id take the 9a

All in one

abarro81

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#8 Re: Alex Megos 9a onsight and more
March 25, 2013, 01:41:36 pm
Hold broke a couple of years ago (or 'dam break' according to translate) so I think everyone's been taking 9a since then

shark

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#9 Re: Alex Megos 9a onsight and more
March 25, 2013, 01:43:26 pm
This is the point where half the ascentionists of Estado turn around and say, i always said it was 8c+  :P :P
Historic!

Ondra gave it 8c+ on his 8a.nu scorecard when he did it in 2007 and said "Never 9a. 3 go"

Patxi gave it 8c+ in 2007 too

Doylo

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#10 Re: Alex Megos 9a onsight and more
March 25, 2013, 01:45:33 pm
This is the point where half the ascentionists of Estado turn around and say, i always said it was 8c+  :P :P
Historic!

Ondra gave it 8c+ on his 8a.nu scorecard when he did it in 2007 and said "Never 9a. 3 go"

Patxi gave it 8c+ in 2007 too

Sounds like this needs to go to the Committee. I wonder what Bonnington thinks...

shark

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#11 Re: Alex Megos 9a onsight and more
March 25, 2013, 01:51:14 pm
This is the point where half the ascentionists of Estado turn around and say, i always said it was 8c+  :P :P
Historic!

Ondra gave it 8c+ on his 8a.nu scorecard when he did it in 2007 and said "Never 9a. 3 go"

Patxi gave it 8c+ in 2007 too

Sounds like this needs to go to the Committee. I wonder what Bonnington thinks...

He won't last a day at base camp with those legs

abarro81

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#12 Re: Alex Megos 9a onsight and more
March 25, 2013, 02:52:03 pm
Hold broke a few years ago I think. This is attributed to Ondra on the 8a forum:
"The hold was not a resting jug, but it helped. Before Estado Critico was
more of an endurance problem, now there is a definite crux (but for
Golpe it is not the crux). Estado Critico is now significantly harder,
from 8c+ to 9a. Golpe de Estado is harder just a little. I had been
really worried about this move, but the move itself felt easier while
linking than normally while working. But I fell one more time even
higher.  If Chris had had doubts about the classification, so now it’s
surely at least 9b."

Muenchener

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#13 Re: Alex Megos 9a onsight and more
March 25, 2013, 04:33:24 pm
Original source for the Ondra quote.

Saw Alex bouldering at one of the local walls just before he left for the States: pretty inspiring (though not sufficiently so to get me up my project)

petejh

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#14 Re: Alex Megos 9a onsight and more
March 25, 2013, 04:52:07 pm
So typical of climbing! ::)  The historic, groundbreaking first 9a onsight that everyone's been waiting for, and it can't even be ascertained if he's actually done a 9a. Sometimes I sympathise with Jens Larsen's autistic drive for order, but then I snap out of it.  It wouldn't happen in cycling...

Doylo

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#15 Re: Alex Megos 9a onsight and more
March 25, 2013, 04:56:12 pm
Is the nature of the game! When someone breaks the 100 metre record you don't have to trawl through old Internet posts to have it confirmed or not.

Danny

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#16 Re: Alex Megos 9a onsight and more
March 26, 2013, 12:32:44 pm
Is the nature of the game! When someone breaks the 100 metre record you don't have to trawl through old Internet posts to have it confirmed or not.

But, sadly, some folks have to trawl through the compounds present in the blood and urine of the new record holder, whilst pundits and the media speculate on footage of how fucking wired they looked after such and such a race.

Doylo

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Danny

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#19 Re: Alex Megos 9a onsight and more
March 30, 2013, 01:50:03 pm
Apparently Megos has done La Rambla...second go after falling from the last two moves on the flash.

Astonished.

Someone needs to get the boy a sticky-wad thread, quickly.

JMB

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#20 Re: Alex Megos 9a onsight and more
March 30, 2013, 02:00:15 pm
He needs to try the Biographie flash next.

Jaspersharpe

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#21 Re: Alex Megos 9a onsight and more
March 30, 2013, 03:42:32 pm
Fuck!

Doylo

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#22 Re: Alex Megos 9a onsight and more
March 30, 2013, 09:05:51 pm
A few weeks ago when Ondra was crushing I thought things couldn't get any sillier. They did.....

Andy B

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#23 Re: Alex Megos 9a onsight and more
March 30, 2013, 11:31:45 pm
 We climbed a bit with Alex in Hueco recently. He's got one of the best attitudes towards climbing that I've come across. No big ego, no entourage or film crew, no shouting about in triumph or tantrums, just calmly and pleasantly ticking everything.

TobyD

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#24 Re: Alex Megos 9a onsight and more
April 01, 2013, 10:46:33 am
I saw part of the ascent from across the valley, but didn't realise what i was looking at at the time...

Amazing effort and a nice guy. Rambla second go wasn't bad either.

 

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