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Climbing wall paint/surface (Read 11028 times)

tomtom

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Climbing wall paint/surface
January 19, 2012, 03:23:04 pm
I was checking out a bouldering extension to Hulls climbing wall last night, and they'd coated the ply with sandtex (as evident by bits of sand on the mats!) and having lost some skin on an elbow and wrist wondered why they did it... I guess it provides a smearable frictiony surface, but I quite like the matt/not gritty finish at the Depot/Works and most other walls I've visted that means you have to be a bit more careful with your footwork IMHO...
Anywhere else have sandpaper walls? I'm not a fan.

ShortRound

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#1 Re: Climbing wall paint/surface
January 19, 2012, 03:40:29 pm

Awesome Walls Stockport and MCC both have textured stuff for the routes sections. I'm not a fan as it tends to wear down the toes of rock shoes if you are a bit slap-dash with your footwork (which I am).

Pretty sure both places don't use it for their bouldering sections which is good as you (I) tend to be a bit more dynamic when bouldering.

SA Chris

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#2 Re: Climbing wall paint/surface
January 19, 2012, 03:56:30 pm
I've never liked it for the reason's mentioned above; grazes and knackers shoes. Plus it encourages floppy ploppin'.

scottygillery

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#3 Re: Climbing wall paint/surface
January 19, 2012, 04:17:32 pm
Pretty sure both places don't use it for their bouldering sections which is good as you (I) tend to be a bit more dynamic when bouldering.

Strangely Stockport have used it on their 40degree bouldering boards - I tend not to smear so much at that angle. Only thing it does it make the tips of my fingers hurt. Fools

Painted on where appropriate - i.e slabs, volumes, aretes. I think it's good but on an overhang?

Pebblespanker

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#4 Re: Climbing wall paint/surface
January 20, 2012, 08:49:13 am
Nottingham wall has some of the old resin textured panels left as a slab and some verticals but most are now lovely smooth yellow paint with little friction. Oddly I was cursing the lack of friction last night on an overhanging section - as a short arse its handy/essential sometimes for me to be able to smear/push off with feet between footholds holds  :-[ From a selfish (stumpy) point of view I think the rough textured resin finish has its place but I agree it is hard on the boots especially if you are down the wall frequently - bit Catch 22 for me really

Wood FT

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#5 Re: Climbing wall paint/surface
January 20, 2012, 09:08:46 am
I'm not a fan off whole panels covered in the stuff but the Works have patches here and there on the slabs which works really well IMO and also blowing their trumpet, they put it in corners and on aretes which means all the good smears and less of the dragging-toe-getting-fucked-upnesss due to the paint's overuse.

tomtom

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#6 Re: Climbing wall paint/surface
January 20, 2012, 12:52:11 pm
I'm not a fan off whole panels covered in the stuff but the Works have patches here and there on the slabs which works really well IMO and also blowing their trumpet, they put it in corners and on aretes which means all the good smears and less of the dragging-toe-getting-fucked-upnesss due to the paint's overuse.

Sensible... I suspect Rockcity got a bargain vat of Sandtex from up the road....

Wood FT

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#7 Re: Climbing wall paint/surface
January 20, 2012, 01:33:58 pm
I'm not a fan off whole panels covered in the stuff but the Works have patches here and there on the slabs which works really well IMO and also blowing their trumpet, they put it in corners and on aretes which means all the good smears and less of the dragging-toe-getting-fucked-upnesss due to the paint's overuse.

Sensible... I suspect Rockcity got a bargain vat of Sandtex from up the road....

no comment  :chair:

webbo

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#8 Re: Climbing wall paint/surface
January 20, 2012, 03:13:55 pm
So you 2 lightweights will only climbing on slate as that nasty grit is ever so rough on your poor little fingers and plays havoc with your expensive shoes. :-\

tomtom

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#9 Re: Climbing wall paint/surface
January 20, 2012, 03:15:56 pm
So you 2 lightweights will only climbing on slate as that nasty grit is ever so rough on your poor little fingers and plays havoc with your expensive shoes. :-\

lol, you've got me sussed out then Webbo :) now, where's my moisturiser...

Wood FT

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#10 Re: Climbing wall paint/surface
January 20, 2012, 03:46:38 pm
So you 2 lightweights will only climbing on slate as that nasty grit is ever so rough on your poor little fingers and plays havoc with your expensive shoes. :-\

guilty

webbo

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#11 Re: Climbing wall paint/surface
January 20, 2012, 07:40:56 pm



Sensible... I suspect Rockcity got a bargain vat of Sandtex from up the road....

If you are looking for cheap rough stuff in Hull, you might be better asking in the Rampant Horse on Orchard Park. :no:

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#12 Re: Climbing wall paint/surface
April 04, 2013, 11:23:57 am
To resurrect! I will be choosing the paint surface for a bouldering wall in the next few days, please give an opinion! Texture or not to texture!

My thoughts...

Texture on: Aretes, volumes, slabs ONLY.

Everywhere else NO.

SA Chris

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#13 Re: Climbing wall paint/surface
April 04, 2013, 11:53:19 am
I wouldn't bother, money better spent elsewhere.. Maybe on a slabif you really want to, but not worth the hassle anywhere else.

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#14 Re: Climbing wall paint/surface
April 04, 2013, 11:58:16 am
To resurrect! I will be choosing the paint surface for a bouldering wall in the next few days, please give an opinion! Texture or not to texture!

My thoughts...

Texture on: Aretes, volumes, slabs ONLY.

Everywhere else NO.

From a personal point of view I dislike textured paint as it gives my shoes more of a work out and increases the chance of me leaving skin on the wall.

From a route setting point of view I find that aretes can be hard to set varied problems on if they are too good, as they become the dominant feature and by their nature rarely change! Adding texture to them will make this worse. Better to be able to apply a screw on to the arete if needed.

Again with the screw ons for slabs. As long as you have enough small screw ons you shouldn't need to make the whole thing textured. I like the Holdz Dual Texture Comp screw ons for that sort of smeary stuff. And slipping on a slab? Prime skin loss on a textured wall!

I'd go for volumes only, as they can make the more interesting problems when actually climbed on themselves, yet they'll be changed around keeping the wall feeling fresh.

tomtom

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#15 Re: Climbing wall paint/surface
April 04, 2013, 12:00:53 pm
Don't do it!

Sandtex also makes a mess as it sheds bits of its grit onto the matting over time - and seems to accumulate the dust/chalk more effectively..

If you leave it off - in the future you can always add if you think it helps? (IE strips along edges of volumes etc..)

MJC

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#16 Re: Climbing wall paint/surface
April 04, 2013, 01:57:53 pm
To resurrect! I will be choosing the paint surface for a bouldering wall in the next few days, please give an opinion! Texture or not to texture!

My thoughts...

Texture on: Aretes, volumes, slabs ONLY.

Everywhere else NO.

From a personal point of view I dislike textured paint as it gives my shoes more of a work out and increases the chance of me leaving skin on the wall.

From a route setting point of view I find that aretes can be hard to set varied problems on if they are too good, as they become the dominant feature and by their nature rarely change! Adding texture to them will make this worse. Better to be able to apply a screw on to the arete if needed.

Again with the screw ons for slabs. As long as you have enough small screw ons you shouldn't need to make the whole thing textured. I like the Holdz Dual Texture Comp screw ons for that sort of smeary stuff. And slipping on a slab? Prime skin loss on a textured wall!

I'd go for volumes only, as they can make the more interesting problems when actually climbed on themselves, yet they'll be changed around keeping the wall feeling fresh.
I agree with all of this.

 

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