[wintermute]

Going to be vaguely in the vicinity of forest rock in Leicestershire at the weekend. Does anyone have any idea what sort of state it will be in? Boulder britain describes is as 'dank in the winter'......

Ta.

[i_a_coops]

I was down about a week ago, and it was soaked. Having said that, it can be fine in the winter as it doesn't seem to seep for that long after rain, the main problem is that almost the entire crag gets wet from run off. If it gets a day or two of sun it might be ok, but the forecast isn't that optimistic.

If you're desperate, Cracked Up (7b+/c thing right in the back of the cave, SS in crack finish matched on the volume in the roof) might well be dry, only one of the holds seeps and that is fingerlocky enough that it doesn't matter that much if it's damp.

Also, it's 10 minutes drive off the M1 and the crag is 30s from the road, so if you're driving past junction 23 anyway it's not much of a detour even if it is wet!

[i_a_coops]

Just had a thought - Nunckley is about 5 minutes drive from Forest Rock, and might be more likely to be dry? I've only checked it out once, and it was raining (it was a bit wet) but it looked pretty compact and unlikely to seep too much. If anyone knows different please correct me.

It's granite rather than slate btw, but looks similarly like board climbing.

[wintermute]

Cheers for that. Whilst i will be close to there relative to where i am now, i won't be close enough to risk it if the odds are it will be bobbins!

Plastic it is.

[clintos]

I've been by today and its pretty good, i'm also working in the village friday so should be able to give you a update then,there is some good problems on the corner at the entrance which dry quick and dont take any seepage. Nunckley would also be a good bet or if you like quarried highballs check out Morley quarry also only 5 mins from J23. Good to see this place getting more traffic it is quality.

[clintos]

oh also plenty of videos about on t web,search leicestershire bouldering and it brings up a fair bit

[i_a_coops]

Forest Rock totally bone dry.

Couple of access issues: Nunckley is not recommended at all (I got threatened with a large lump of granite by the groundsman the other day), and the guy who owns the house just above Forest Rock isn't too happy about all the power screaming as the place is starting to get more popular. He was also complaining about people stripping ivy, using pickaxes and drilling bolts. As far as I'm aware no one has drilled bolts in a long time, and I've not seen any drytooling damage but apparently the council are talking about fencing the place off so I think it's worth trying to keep a low profile at this crag!

[Baldy]

I went on my own yesterday for a session and aside from a few odd looks from the locals I didnt receive any comments.

I think the message is to keep noise down if you are going.

Yes...that means that if you just stuck the crux on your 6 month project then you cant shout about it, and neither can your spotters. If you dont like that aspect then I think you need to go and climb somewhere else.
I really dont see a compromise being reached on this point - the guys house is literally next to the rock, so any noise you make will go straight into his house.

As far as ivy stripping, pickaxes or bolt drilling I dont know why anyone would be doing that...
I'd probably blame the local scroats, who leave the place covered with tin cans and smelling like a tramp pissed himself in the corner.

However, if he believes it to be climbers then that is who he is going to complain about.

(I failed to do my project, but the conditions were really nice)

[Gareth Parry]

Read this about access. Obviously keep noise down and don't piss in view of the house or in the cave.
The geezer in the shop nearest to the cave is very excited that people are visiting here and it is so popular, so go in and buy some drinks/ice cream from him. It is a public open space so access is for all.

In 1976 Charnwood Borough Council purchased the quarry under a compulsory purchase order because the place was a mess and no owner could be found. They listed the use of the land as `Public Open Space' on the compulsory purchase order. Several years ago the old school which was adjacent to the low (useless) part of the quarry was sold and turned into houses. The top of the low crag which provides an easy way down, or a scramble up for the local kids, and has done for perhaps a hundred years, overlooks the bedrooms and backyards of these houses. Just for fun some of these young people started peeing dawn into the backyards and running away through the churchyard. "The owner wrote to the Parish Council requesting that climbing on the rocks be banned. The Parish Council referred the request to Charnwood Borough Council who decided at full council to put up a sign banning rock climbing. The Borough Council (Conservative) cynically decided to erect a sign banning climbing, even when it knew it had no authority to ban climbing. To actually ban climbing they would need a Model Bye-law from the Home Office and would be unlikely to get it as the place is public open space and not much use for anything but emptying your dog (mind your feet) and climbing on. The B.M.C. have contested the issue, and the Chief Constable is aware of it. So remember when you climb here you have a perfect legal right to do so, irrespective of what the sign (it says "Rock Climbing is Prohibited"), the local people or a passing uninformed uniformed policeman might say. It is one of the few crags in this guide to which you have legal access. Please don't vandalise the sign, it only gives climbers a bad name. Don't sit on the War Memorial to eat your sandwiches, the Parish Council don't like that either. Avoid noise and bad language"

Taken from-http://www.leicesterclimbs.f9.co.uk/ForestrockI.htm

[wintermute]

Is there any form of topo for here, or is it a case of piecing things together from videos online?

[Baldy]

http://www.leicestershireclimbs.co.uk/index.php/forest-rock.html 

[wintermute]

Cheers for that.

Is the magician a sit start to sorcerers direct?

And am i right in thinking enchantress starts at the ramp of sorceress?

[r-man]

Climbers will need to use either carrot plates which can be purchased from ‘Arapiles Mountain Shop’ Natimuk or hang wires over the heads and push the nut up against the bolt to hold it on.

 

[remus]

Is the magician a sit start to sorcerers direct?

Yeah, it's the sit start to Sorcerer Direct.

And am i right in thinking enchantress starts at the ramp of sorceress?

Enchantress starts a little left of the sorceress ramp, right hand on a flat undercut left hand on a good bit of arete.

Im heading there today, If I remember I'll take some photos and put together a little topo.

[Baldy]

Oh yeah,  forgot to say - that topo is full of mistakes on grades and whatnot, make up your own and have fun.

[remus]

Doh, hadn't seen that topo on Leicestershire climbs. Here's my effort, not much different really.

http://imgur.com/a/bm0Rj

[Andrew B]

Looks good Remus but a couple of mistakes. Grade of Magician is V9/10 and the line you have put in as Anti Hero is actually Own Narrative V9.

[wintermute]

Brilliant, cheers remus.

[r-man]

I think Dawid changed the start of Antihero, to make it a little harder - from his scorecard:

Sit with both hands on the left ramp in a right-hand side hold. Pull up on poor footholds and reach with right to the large flake gaston on the right, match and finish up on the volume in the roof.
Currently, extended starting three moves left from an obvious massive undercutting ramp. Much more complete problem, probably now in the grade [7B+]

He's also done a new one recently

Notes to Self 8A
Sit start about a metre left of own narrative from undercut for right and large side pull for left. Climb directly up via some small holds to a large undercut flake and finish with both hands on the large volume next to it.

[webbo]

How quick does forrest Rock dry, according to the new problems thread it was wet on thursday. Is there any chance it might be dry on sat/sun.

[i_a_coops]

the stuff around heathen chemistry dries fast, as does enchantress and cracked up. Everything else is a bit slower I think.

Btw, in that topo the line for Dark Magic should go up the finger crack in the top left of the picture instead of traversing left. it only joins Magician at the last hold....

[i_a_coops]

Anyone been recently? Thinking of heading over tomorrow so would appreciate a heads up if it's soaked!

[i_a_coops]

Repeat of last post?

[clintos]

Hit n miss in the back as of today 2pm, slowly drying out but could take a day or so given the lack of wind.from magician it's dry and it's mostly condensation so a towel would help. Hope that makes sense and helps.

[webbo]

Anyone know if its dry or likely to be at the weekend.