[Bonjoy]

Quality problem! That will deffo be dry. Bring a good toe hooking boot. Kneepad useful too

[b3n99]

Ive tried it briefly a couple of times before, never worked out a good sequence for the top section, any clues? That where the kneepad is useful?

[Bonjoy]

For top move I used a right leg kneebar (knee to the right of your hand in the groove on undercutty bit, foot on arete smear) as soon as I got top section of groove and used this to work hands up groove easily. Then drop it out and get a left kneebar high in the groove with foot on highest possible smear on left wall of groove. Bump right foot up to aforementioned arete smear (helps to take RH out of groove and press off wall to do this). Match top of groove and reach left to crimp on slab. Easy after that. Some folk on vids use the obvious foothold out on the arete, but this seemed a red herring to me, only useful for easy bit at the top.
Also used a right leg kneebar on sharp down pointing fin to do move one static.
Used two kneepads. Had I only had one I’d have used it on left leg for the top kneebar.

[b3n99]

Good stuff, will try it out later and report back, thanks for the in-depth beta!!!

[b3n99]

Just stumbled across this, presume this is the kneebar move at the top you were talking about?



(last problem in video)

[Bonjoy]

Yeah, looks like the same kneebar position

[BrutusTheBear]

I am in the vicinity for the next few days and hoping to get here for a couple of evening sessions.  Hopefully something will be dry?  Is it suitable for a night session or will I piss off the neighbours? (I will be alone and not into power screaming!). Where can I find the most upto date info/topo?

[sdm]

Something will almost certainly be dry. The stuff at the entrance dries quickly after rain. Sorceress and a couple of other lines seep a bit and the stuff further in to the cave (especially anti hero) condenses if the temperature spikes. There is nearly always something dry though.

For topos,  use Leicestershireclimbs.co.uk, Leicester climbs.f9.co.uk and UKC.

There are also videos of some additional problems on Mike Adams and Clint Maskells vimeos.

Not sure lamp sessions are a great idea,  the neighbours were complaining of noise recently. A lamp in the cave shouldn't be visible from any houses though so maybe nobody would know you were there.

Windmill Hill and Cademan might be OK for lamp sessions,  they aren't near any houses.

[Bonjoy]

I agree, lamp sessions would be bad idea here.

[BrutusTheBear]

Cheers for the info, very helpful.    Used to climbing in places that are much more remote in Devon...  Will go here at the start of the evening and then head on when it gets dark.

[Three Nine]

Just stumbled across this, presume this is the kneebar move at the top you were talking about?



(last problem in video)

I'm pretty sure I showed you the kneebar? Its worth noting that some kneetards just cant get this particular kneebar to work - even if they've got a rep for kneebarring stuff.

[haydn jones]

anyone got an update on conditions pr hazard a guess? im working is leister for the next 2 weeks

[sdm]

Totally condensed today.

Cracked up was climbable, everything else was soaked.

[abarro81]

Anyone know how it is there at the moment? Heading south and east looks like the only way to avoid the rain tomorrow...

[Orrincoley]

After all the rain it might have seeped a lot, but after a day or so of dry weather it sometimes dries out a bit so could be worth a chance

[sdm]

In case anyone is planning on going in the next few days: Cracked Up dry, Anti-hero dryable, everything else is soaked.

[sdm]

Anyone know if Forest Rock has survived the downfalls this week or would it be a wasted journey to go there tomorrow?

[Orrincoley]

Very likely a wasted journey... Was soaked at the beginning of the week and probably still is now.

Also there is now a (draft) guide online. Not finished yet and there's a fair few errors to be corrected, but it's something - https://cademanbouldering.com/forestrock/

[sdm]

Cheers. Indoors it is.

Guide's looking good. Should help fill in the few gaps where I wasn't too sure on the line.

[sdm]

Entrance to Magician is dry, Enchantress and Cracked Up are climbable. Everything else is wet. Own Narrative looks like it may dry out later.

[sdm]

If that is a climber who has been shitting at the crag this week and leaving piles of toilet paper less than 5 metres from somebody's property, you should know better.
Please don't ruin access for the rest of us.

[joeb]

How was “notes to self”?
Hopefully it’s not a climber 

[sdm]

Most of the holds on Notes to Self were wet but starting to dry by the time I left. There was then a short but very heavy downpour as I left that might have made things worse again.

My guess is that it would probably be wet tomorrow but might be worth a look on Tuesday.

I hope it wasn't a climber too but I don't see who else would spend enough time there to need to go twice.

[Orrincoley]

Local kids go there to get away from their likely posh parents to smoke and get drunk.
Probably them, wouldn't Suprise me.

[tomtom]

Local kids go there to get away from their likely posh parents to smoke and get drunk.
Probably them, wouldn't Suprise me.

I spent quite alot of my youth going to quiet places to smoke and get drunk - and I never remember having a shit whilst out - or taking bog roll with me! Sample n=1 etc...