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block off tremelo (Read 3388 times)

marcpontin

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block off tremelo
April 02, 2013, 12:29:31 pm
Was dogging my way up Tremelo on Sunday and the large resting block/jug to the left as it steepens up after the initial wall came away with no warning when I was standing on it (about the size of a small microwave). It landed on the rope bag, narrowly missing my belayer, Steve, who thankfully was paying attention and not standing directly underneath. No obvious loose rock remains but a good brush will prob be required to remove the dust and bits that it has left. Spoke to someone who did the route on saturday who said it felt totally solid! A timely reminder of the dangers this time of year after all the freeze thaw action over the winter.

Still climbs really well by the way, not knowing what it was like before I imagine it is a tad more sustained than it was but wouldn't have thought a change in grade. someone who knows the route well might like to comment.

SA Chris

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#1 Re: block off tremelo
April 02, 2013, 01:18:32 pm
Spoke to someone who did the route on saturday who said it felt totally solid!

Was it moose? Maybe he loosened it!

cowboyhat

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#2 Re: block off tremelo
April 02, 2013, 01:24:57 pm
Tremelo at stanage?

SA Chris

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#3 Re: block off tremelo
April 02, 2013, 01:27:06 pm
Malham one I think.

Grubes

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#4 Re: block off tremelo
April 02, 2013, 01:27:43 pm
Spoke to someone who did the route on saturday who said it felt totally solid!

Was it moose? Maybe he loosened it!
I seriously doubt it. He is the skinniest person I have ever met.

andy_e

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#5 Re: block off tremelo
April 02, 2013, 01:30:39 pm
Got a lot of lank though hasn't he? More of a lever to act on ripping the jug off!

marcpontin

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#6 Re: block off tremelo
April 02, 2013, 02:33:09 pm
sorry, yeah - the malham one!

moose

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#7 Re: block off tremelo
April 02, 2013, 08:02:13 pm
Aye, it was me you were chatting to... never has beta dated so quickly!  The jug felt utterly solid the day before it fell (and I know someone who climbed it the day before that with no cause for concern).  Still, it was a shock but not entirely surprising in retrospect - it did seep where it attached to the face. 

I would be very surprised if the route isn't a grade harder.  The jug falling has wiped-out a semi-rest and very useful foothold for clipping the bolt and moving into the crux.  And that crux already felt tricky enough - at least for me - the slightest lack of freshness always led to a sheepish grab for the face-height drawer rather than committing to the move!  Hey ho... maybe it'll now be a fantastic, sustained 7c+ rather than a slightly unbalanced, cruxy 7c?

tomtom

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#8 Re: block off tremelo
April 02, 2013, 08:07:19 pm
Aye, it was me you were chatting to... never has beta dated so quickly!  The jug felt utterly solid the day before it fell (and I know someone who climbed it the day before that with no cause for concern).  Still, it was a shock but not entirely surprising in retrospect - it did seep where it attached to the face. 

I would be very surprised if the route isn't a grade harder.  The jug falling has wiped-out a semi-rest and very useful foothold for clipping the bolt and moving into the crux.  And that crux already felt tricky enough - at least for me - the slightest lack of freshness always led to a sheepish grab for the face-height drawer rather than committing to the move!  Hey ho... maybe it'll now be a fantastic, sustained 7c+ rather than a slightly unbalanced, cruxy 7c?

Could be an easy pass to your first 7c+ !!  ;)

SA Chris

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#9 Re: block off tremelo
April 02, 2013, 08:40:49 pm
Is the block reattach able?

shark

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#10 Re: block off tremelo
April 02, 2013, 09:35:03 pm
Is the block reattach able?

Anythings possible but it would be a big undertaking probably requiring drilling and cementing a bar through the block and into the rock

marcpontin

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#11 Re: block off tremelo
April 03, 2013, 08:59:42 am
The block broke into two or three bits as well so would be a right mission to reassemble. As i said it climbs really well, using a lovely flake hold for your right hand that probably noone ever used before.

 

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