A rushed edit from the last few days
My wife asked me last night who coined the phrase "snowballing" to mean highballing above snow, which got me wondering whether John Allen was the first snowballer with his ascent of Boys will be Boys (E6) at Stanage in 1986? Steve Adams and I 'snowballed' this back in 2000 (April 6th according to Steve) having read in the old Stanage guidebook that the first ascent was done above a massive drift. I wonder whether any other lines were specifically done before this in such a way i.e. with the help of snow John Allen - what a ledge.
9 toez got the 'big' unclimbed wall right of White Wand yesterday.9 is Enuff 7A+Without the 25ft drift this would prob be an E8 so get it whilst you can:
a committing blind move, LH undercutting, RH in shallow 2 finger pocket. Can you recall any beta on the next bit Tom? How’s the top bit after the break?
I thought 7a for the righthand beta on Deadline (I vote this be called Undeadline). Like others have said, I can see why a short person climbing above a pointy block would use more direct beta. Also don’t forget with the current snow level the pocket is gained with one move off the arete, rather than traversing in from the Storm as per the FA, maybe this also makes a difference.
So nobody’s tried out the Boys will be Boys landing yet (did a bit more work on this on Monday eve)? I gave it a brief play on very tired arms after building up the landing on Saturday and got up to a committing blind move, LH undercutting, RH in shallow 2 finger pocket. Can you recall any beta on the next bit Tom? How’s the top bit after the break?Would like to have a post work session on this tomorrow if anyone is keen??
The Promise was wet by 2 today Wet streak creeped down into the pocket and lower crimp. Doesn't look to be any more snow up there so should dry up soon ish. Good landing too, would be fine with one or 2 pads but a spotter might be handy