[Durbs]

True dat.

Incidentally - aside from Pooch - where the Yanks at?

Seem to be quite under represented - do they just not travel well (Japan seem to do ok) or do they not do the World Cup? There seems to be a healthy US comp scene - are they just being American as with their baseball and competing amongst themselves whilst being thrashed internationally?

[GraemeA]

True dat.

Incidentally - aside from Pooch - where the Yanks at?

Seem to be quite under represented - do they just not travel well (Japan seem to do ok) or do they not do the World Cup? There seems to be a healthy US comp scene - are they just being American as with their baseball and competing amongst themselves whilst being thrashed internationally?

According to Pooch American sponsors aren't interested in the World Cups. The American way?

[krymson]

In the US the focus is on the outdoors above all else. We're competitive for sure but there simply isn't the psyche for climbing on plastic and climbing indoors is viewed as training for "the real stuff".

I currently live in Asia and it's a bit the opposite - climbing outside is still respected, but pulling on plastic doesn't have the stigma it has in the US, and winning comps is actually cooler than sending hard outdoors is, so there's a lot more dollars for athletes to compete.

[Durbs]

I'd say here outdoors is still king, but we have enough indoor/mixed climbers to put together a good team.

Not sure I buy that as to why you guys aren't really in the World Cup - suspect Graeme's answer might be more on the (lack of) money. I've seen several videos and reports from US comps, even the days when DG and Sharma were competing.

All the "big" named US climbers I can think of do tend to be outdoors guys, but the UK ones tend to do both...

[Duma]

No British men through to the semis, no Kilian either!
Womens qualification in a couple of hours

[Durbs]

"Interressant" as the French would say, probably whilst smoking and eating a baguette.

Rustam & Dimitrii pretty far down too.

Good effort from Nedward & Babtridge though

[JackAus]

Nice work on the 2 Aussies getting in there...

[Duma]

Anna was hardly stellar either. Mina and Shauna both cruised through, looks like Leah's gonna make it too.

[r-man]

Good semis. So close for Mina! Finals will be exciting...

[davej]

The british girls are awesome. Whats happened to the brit guys though!

[Duma]

finals on now:
!

[Duma]

well that's an almighty fuck up by the judges

[205Chris]

well that's an almighty fuck up by the judges

Only just tuned in. What happened?

[Dr T]

well that's an almighty fuck up by the judges

Only just tuned in. What happened?

Allowed Jacob a send that started "illegally" then got him back out at the end to have another go

[Duma]

fucking crushed it anyway though, so all's well...

[205Chris]

Cheers. Tuned in just as the commentator was making some disparaging remark about Mr. Alderson then saw Jakob rinse that problem.

[Duma]

Shame, cause his successful attempt earlier that was disallowed was way cooler.

Not the best finals I thought - men's too hard (only 4 tops in total) and women's too easy (3 top girls had 12 tops in 14 attempts, and winner decided on countback  )

[r-man]

I thought the same, but hey, there's always going to be a lot of luck getting the difficulty right. Still some good entertainment.

Jakob was the star of this one. Hard to get excited about the women's efforts when the problems looked like a walkover for the front runners. Wonder why Shauna had such a block on problem 2?

[Durbs]

I didn't mind the Jakob controversy, but only because he crushed it - added to the excitement at the end and was a good result.

Ladies - yeah, a few too many flashes, Shauna not getting F2 was a shame as it took some of the excitement out from a Brit perspective for the last two climbs. Will be interesting to read Shauna's blog when she updates.

Liked the problems though - none of that run-and-a-jump malarky, always enjoy a good slab and a dyno to boot.

[JackAus]

Barrans through to the semis. Kassay in aswell.
Leah, Mina and Shauna all in.

[flyguy]

What time are the finals starting? It says 7:00 gmt +2  does this mean its 9:00 in the uk? Cheers

[JackAus]

What time are the finals starting? It says 7:00 gmt +2  does this mean its 9:00 in the uk? Cheers

   Nope, 7:00.

Only Shauna through, Kassay through.

[flyguy]

Whoops, cheers for that!

[iain]

Flyguy,  it will be on at 6.

we're gmt+1

[flyguy]

Cheers Iain. Thought we were gmt  major fail. Thanks won't miss it now.