[Fultonius]

Cold start = long time since last run.  If there is a slight leak on the non-pressurised (i.e. feed) side of the pump, it could pull in some air which would need to be purged on next start.  It *should* be fairly obvious as there would be a diesel coming out somewhere. It happened to us in the T4.

But, battery replacement at first call. Fiend - if you can make it to the South Side Cumming Automotive seemed really good when they did our MOT. Neither main dealer nor KWikThief.

[galpinos]

Yeah everyone likes to slag Kwikfit off, dealers and punters. Funny enough Kwikfit like to slag off the dealers too.

It's down to the individual you deal with, not the company. There of plenty of independents who are rip-off merchants and I'm sure plenty of honest chaps in main dealers. The problem is the corporate approach of maximising margins and high turnover of the big garages means things are more likely missed/ignored.

[Johnny Brown]

Free dual mass flywheel sounds like a win anyway, seem to remember the french had Jim over a barrel for several grand when his went. Hope you get it sorted. Having had a few error messages from mine it seems the sensors are much less reliable than the components.

[Fiend]

The flywheel.... A4Audi technician said he was "99% certain" that was the problem when they checked it out (it was in for the timing belt, I asked them to look at the rough start at the same time). Took it to the dealer to check out, obviously they wanted to be sure before doing the work on it, he kept it in for a couple of days and kept checking it before deciding to to replace the DMF. When they took it off, they did find some play in it it (but obviously it isn't the main problem!). I think a replacement would have been about £850 fully fitted. However now the dealer/technician does whine a bit "Well you're lucky, we've replaced the DMF and glow plugs and fuel pump for you, that's a bonus". Yeah whatever homie I don't want a fucking bonus and TBH I don't really care about getting a load of work done on the car under warranty, I just want it to start smooth, if that's a 1/2 hour job and £50 part I get for free then I'd be happy with that 

[lagerstarfish]

Have you made them aware of who you are?

[tomtom]

Sone replacement wheels for you here Fiend..

[cha1n]

Weird that they thought it was the DMF, that would be a problem all the time, not just from cold starts. I guess the only thing it could be is a fuelling issue and I would envision that the ECU uses lots of different sensors to decide on the specifics of that.

I know the ECU resets itself after the battery being disconnected for a period of time and then takes a period of time to relearn settings:

I reset the ECU, and now the car runs rough! Why? The engine may run rough or idle poorly right after ECU reset. The ECU now has default numbers in its trim memory - it has to adjust them to match the tune of your engine and its sensors and actuators. It might take a day or two of driving in traffic before the engine will settle down again. Now you know why the ECU remembers these values in the first place!

http://www.technomotive.com/theory/myth/ecureset.htm

Did you say they've had it hooked up to diagnostics?

[Seb]

Anyone got any beta about the kia ceed estate? Need a new car (second hand) and it looks like a possibility.

[cheque]

My boss has the hatchback version, he's not a climber but I'll get some info from him tomorrow.

[Seb]

Thanks

[deacon]

Is that the one that's pretty much a fake octavia?
Heard good things about them

[Seb]

Yer that's the one.

[benno]

I've got one and I like it. It's reliable as hell, the only thing that's ever gone wrong with it was a failed starter motor which was replaced under the enormously long 7 year warranty. Even when that went, I bump started it and got home fine. I get about 53-55mpg (113bhp 1.6l diesel in an '07-'09 model, I think the newer ones are better because they've got 6 gears). Boot size is pretty average, about the same as a Focus. Likewise the level of interior comfort. Max pad width to fit in the simplest way is about 105cm, but I've also got a 115cm Edelrid one that shoves in level with the bottom of the windows and bags just go underneath. Roof rails are handy, but you'll need a short-ish roof box because the boot hinges quite a long way into the roof. It does mean you can back it right up to things and still get in the boot, mind.

[cheque]

Thanks

Turns out my boss is off work today but I think I'll see him next on Thursday.

[SA Chris]

Tyre help. This shit confuses me.

We've sold old Ford Focus estate (2005) and bought a newer one (2014 Ford Focus Diesel Estate Zetec TDCI with a 1560 cc engine)

Now I've still gt a set of old steel wheels with winter tyres from the old one with winter tyres on it. I've checked the stud spacing and it's the same. Old tyres are 205/55 R16 91H, tyres on new car are 215/55/R16 93H.

So if I'm right the old tyres have a bit smaller outer diameter, but still good to go. Only bit I'm unsure of is the load rating, which is lower on the old tyres. How do you work out or find out what the minimum load rating is for a car? I've tried assorted tyre sales databases, but they all seem to give different results.

Thanks

[tomtom]

Check your insurance CHRIS - they may get a bit sniffy about non standard sizes for winter tyres (btw winter tyres seem to get a v good resale price with wheels on eBay at this time of year....)

[tomtom]

Sorry for the caps. Phone text blah.

[Fultonius]

Check your insurance CHRIS - they may get a bit sniffy about non standard sizes for winter tyres (btw winter tyres seem to get a v good resale price with wheels on eBay at this time of year....)

WORD ^

If the insurance is happy - happy days!  If not, then do some more googling and argue your case.

[SA Chris]

OK, but that aside, still confused about the load rating?

[andy_e]

Lay off the pies then 

[Fultonius]

Check your logbook for the max permissible weight,  divide by 4,  check against black circles load ratings. I think  don't quote me on that!

Sent from my XT1039 using Tapatalk

[Fiend]

Bleh.

Took the car to the dealer, they checked the battery, was dropping to below 10 volts on start up so they agreed to replace it.

Still got the same fucking problem happening.

I printed out what you were saying Fultonious, and showed it to him. He said it couldn't be a fuel pump timing issue as it would be happening during the car running. He said it shouldn't be the fuel lines leaking as there would be a smell of diesel around the car.

It's worth reiterating that there are no issues whatsoever once the engine is running - it idles at 900 rpm with no fluctuations, no stalling, no juddering, no lagging, nothing.

Unfortunately they don't have the VAG-COM diagnostic gubbins so they can't check more specifcally.

It's getting on my tits now because the dealer is going to get more and more reluctant to do more warranty work on it and it's going to end up a battle of wills getting them to keep looking into, which I relish about as much as cheesegrating my bellend.

[Paul B]

It's daft not to do a diagnostic with VAG-COM.

Join your friendly Audi (or VAG) forum and find someone locally (likely someone with a mate in prison) who is happy to plug it in and see what's what. Plenty of people (not just garages) have this ability in full. It'd also be a better bet (no offense to the people of UKB) for fault-finding.

[Fultonius]

Bleh.

Took the car to the dealer, they checked the battery, was dropping to below 10 volts on start up so they agreed to replace it.

Still got the same fucking problem happening.

I printed out what you were saying Fultonious, and showed it to him. He said it couldn't be a fuel pump timing issue as it would be happening during the car running.


Unfortunately they don't have the VAG-COM diagnostic gubbins so they can't check more specifcally.

Did you buy it from Arnold Shark???

[tomtom]

It's daft not to do a diagnostic with VAG-COM.

Join your friendly Audi (or VAG) forum and find someone locally (likely someone with a mate in prison) who is happy to plug it in and see what's what. Plenty of people (not just garages) have this ability in full. It'd also be a better bet (no offense to the people of UKB) for fault-finding.

What paul said - get online and post up. There are (literally) millions of people in the world with cars using the same series of engine so this problem will have happened before...

My money is still on some thing to do with the compression/valves....