UKBouldering.com

Power Club Week 161 Mon 11th - Sun 17th (Read 5183 times)

csl

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 789
  • Karma: +93/-2
Power Club Week 161 Mon 11th - Sun 17th
March 17, 2013, 04:38:56 pm
Goals for March.
Rehab finger
Rehab shoulder
Get really fit whilst recovering - try to do 4/5 endurance orientated sessions a week
Run an 17.50 park run.
Go outside

Mon - Biscuit Factory, climbed some juggier problems up to V5 then got on the circuit board. Onsighted all the circuits up to the white 6c, couldn't climb the 7a cos a hold was missing and there were a lot of crimps on my left hand. Did lots of laps on here and got quite pumped. Finger started feeling a bit tender so eased off and just finished by climbing lots of easy problems.
Tue -
Wed - Quick climbing session before work. Made a 25 move circuit on the 10º board, did 4 laps first go with a rest at a jug in between each lap. Second set did 5 laps.
Run - 7.5km slow.
Thu - Same as Wed but 6 laps first set then 5 on second set. Will eliminate a load of footholds next time to make it a little harder.
Run - 1km intervals @3.34 w 1km recovery
Fri -
Sat - Parkrun - came 5th in 18.55. Course was extremely muddy!
Short climbing session, problems up to V5. Finger felt ok.
Sun - Hungover

Muenchener

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2695
  • Karma: +117/-0
STG: (indoor) 7a redpoint
MTG (2013): Frankenjura VII onsight; Alpine multipitch VI; Welsh trad E2
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

M: Wall, Thalkirchen. Bouldering: attempts on currently-too-hard-for-me problems, on the theory that the odd strength maintenance session is a good idea while I'm doing a predominantly endurance training phase.
T:
W:
T: Wall, Thalkirchen: Short session: one hour endurance circuits in the 6b/+ range
F: Alpine approach training: 3 x 40 stories stair run in office with rucksack full of water bottles. Desperate.
S: Wall, Boulderwelt. A dozen problems to warm up, including a 6B flash which is not a routine occurrence for me at this wall - might even be a first. Then to work: 7a circuit project. Got to my previous furthest point in a single push and did all the remaining moves. A good session.
S: Wall, Thalkirchen. Belay bunny for my son: his first visit to the wall for ages. Ever since I let him lead some routes in the Frankenjura last summer he has refused point blank to go to the wall on the grounds that it is crap compared to the 'jura. A position against which it is hard to argue convincingly.

fried

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1892
  • Karma: +60/-3
Monday - Nothing
Tuesday - BM session - 1h 4x 4x7 mixed holds.
Wednesday - nothing
Thursday - Very short indoor session between meetings. just about warmed up and it was time to leave.
Friday - nothing
Saturday - Revisit all the same megadeparmentdiystores as last week, like a very tedious version of Groundhog day and spend more money. Start a BM session but after 1 hang I know my head's not there. Cook for guests.
Sunday - Indoor, fine.

cheque

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3400
  • Karma: +523/-2
    • Cheque Pictures
STG- E2 on grit this season.
MTG- 7b, 7B & E3 in 2013.

M- Notts Depot bouldering. Did some new hard problems for the first time in weeks.
T- Rest.
W- Notts Depot circuit board. 5 laps of yellow circuit w/ 5 minutes rests. 4th week in a row that I've reduced the rests by 1 minute. Felt easy this week as well, although having a rest day before and having the circuit totally wired by now probably explain that. Worked white '7a' circuit- done it in three sections now. This is fingery PE for me- I'll be absolutely psyched if I can redpoint it this coming Wednesday.
T- Rest.
F- Max hangs. Some gains (The list of grips I can hang for too long to qualify for max hangs grows) but some losses, which is weird coming after a rest day. Looking at my diary it follows a pattern of poor fingerboard sessions when I try to squeeze them in before other commitments. Giving the maximum effort to hang on definitely has a psychological element.
S- Wide-arm pushups.
S- Rest. Surprisingly sore from previous days antagonist work.

duncan

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2979
  • Karma: +336/-2
STG - Rehab. wrist
MTG - E5
LTG - various ambitious goals on US and Alpine Rock

M -
T - The Biscuit: 5mins on / 5 mins off x 5.  Bloody hell this is hard.
W - Short run
T - The Biscuit: 32 problems to V3 in 1 hr
F - Dumbells: finger rolls and other wrist strengthening stuff
S -
S - The Biscuit: 50 problems to V3 in 1hr 10mins. 

More weather frustration.  It's hard to justify the 3hr drive when the forecast is so crap.  Please tell me The Peak was rubbish this weekend!  Pretty good week for training despite considerable external pressures.  Wrist is 75% there.  Endurance-y session was a bit of a shock, clearly need to do a lot more of this.

F: Alpine approach training: 3 x 40 stories stair run in office with rucksack full of water bottles. Desperate.

 :o :strongbench:

S: Wall, Thalkirchen. Belay bunny for my son: his first visit to the wall for ages. Ever since I let him lead some routes in the Frankenjura last summer he has refused point blank to go to the wall on the grounds that it is crap compared to the 'jura. A position against which it is hard to argue convincingly.

A boy with impeccable taste.  I'm sure it's inherited!

nai

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4009
  • Karma: +206/-1
  • In my dreams
stg - rehab elbow, font in 3 weeks
summer goal - 8a, E4s


M - foot on campussing, 8x2mins, 4:30 mins rest, completed too easily really
T - 500kg of TGUs, 1km swim while nipper had a lesson
w
T - Stanton Moor, did a lot of traipsing about looking for rocks and a bit of climbing. FOC 4x 2mins on, 3 mins off back home. Completed
F - totally shattered, had to rest
S - FOC 6x 2mins on, 3:30 off, completed and extended final reps, 30 mins core eve (going out for dinner and was starving, had to stop myself snacking)
S - an hour at the Works with the nipper, about 20 problems, nothing too hard but I did see Duncan Disorderly fall off the kids wall (ok slip)

Had my elbow diagnosed on Tuesday, Golfers as suspected, been given exercises to do and the all-clear to keep climbing as long as it's pain free (although the line between discomfort and pain is hard to judge)

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8733
  • Karma: +629/-17
  • insect overlord #1
Thanks csl,

Weight 11st 7-9

Mon. Physio. Shoulder OK  :)
Tues.
Weds. Malham. Warm, had to wait for shade. Good links on Oak -overlapping halves
Thurs.
Fri.     
Sat. Youth Climbing Series at Edge. Belayed. Tommy and Poppy came 2nd.  :2thumbsup:
Sun. Malham. Cold and damp. Top half of Oak wet. Disappointing goes from ground - had hoped to get through throw. Next back on Friday

Weight heading in right direction. Ace sesion on weds. Gutted not to do better today.

Luke Owens

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1311
  • Karma: +66/-0
    • My Blog
STG - Consolidate 7b and Font 7A
MTG - 7c and Font 7A+
LTG - 8a and Font 7B/+

Monday - Rest

Tuesday - Pantymwyn - Trying Robert Duvall (Font 7A) again. Did from a stand start during warm up (About 6B+). Linked from the sit and powered out going for the last hold TWICE! Frustrating but great to be so close. Further attempts then proved useless and I felt mega tired. An obvious indicator I lack power endurance. It's 8 moves in total and the moves on there own I don't find too tricky.

Wednesday- Worked late and had to help tidy the house before we went on holiday...

Thursday, Friday, Saturday Family holiday

Sunday - Craig Y Llyn - Never been before, as roadside as it gets! Wanted to try Voie Normale (Font 7A). Holds were positive but wet. The problem is steep. Couldn't even do the stand start (Font 6B+). Confirmed how rubbish I am at steep stuff, need to get on the moon board more, lack body tension.

chillax

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 660
  • Karma: +27/-1
STG: Rehab ankle, climb again
MTG: E4, 7B

M - Gym. 1hr stationary bike, WFH back & chest, core, half hour in pool
T - Gym. 1hr stationary bike, WFH arms & shoulders, core, half hour in pool
W - Lower back felt like it had been run over by a tractor. CWP fingerboard routine.
T - Explored Wicklow coast. Found a couple of interesting projects for when I can climb again.
F - Nothing
S - Glendalough. Tried some easy bouldering. Feeling reasonably light and strong, but couldn't top anything out for fear of landing on buggered ankle. Walking out was painful. 50 pull ups and 100 pushups at home after.
S - CWP fingerboard session.

webbo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5038
  • Karma: +141/-13
Mon. Rockcity 35 problems up to 6c. Not bad for 3rd day on. Bit of a niggly cough which hurts in my back.
Tue. Cough much worse, feels like when i had pleurisy several years ago.
Wed. Ill
Thu. Ill Docs Chest infection. Back also in spasm
Fri to sun Chest and back pain.



cheque

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3400
  • Karma: +523/-2
    • Cheque Pictures
That doesn't sound good at all Webbo. Get well soon!

webbo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5038
  • Karma: +141/-13
No I not improving much either. I wouldn't mind I decided to earn some brownie points while being off work ill. Bent over to put some washing in the machine and " Ohh look at my Quasimodo impression".

Duncan Disorderly

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 737
  • Karma: +41/-0
  • Stealth Punter
Goals: Not fall off kids boulder again... :-[ (thanks nai)

M: Fingerboard + Frenchies and Core on Bar
T: 4 x 4's on my board - shit the bed! They weren't AeroCap!
W: Isolated Hard Moves + AeroCap
T:
F:
S:
S: Works with the boy - AeroCap (it was a slip right!! :whistle:) Abortive AnCap due to boy falling on his head so decided I should be a responsible father and actually spot the mini beast.

Started great then shizz got in the way. What I did do felt hard.

This week: Got an easy week scheduled but might do a bit more than planned (i.e. go to eatswood or even get on the string) but just stay off the fingers and AnCap stuff.

:D

Dolly

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2010
  • Karma: +83/-0
M still tired from yet another minor bloody illness
T Foundry lunchtime. Good
W slow 6.4k run
T Froggatt sunset boulders. Several problems including Holy Green which must be the easiest 7a/6b I've done. Failed again on Stottie although it was drizzling and I was in a rush (and crap,fat and weak)  Shed in the evening (keen I know)
F Up too early to get to Solihull for work. Tired
S ill
S ill (see squits thread)

Muenchener

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2695
  • Karma: +117/-0
M still tired from yet another minor bloody illness

Tell me about it. This winter has been a complete pain: quite apart from a couple of weeks of actually being properly ill (bronchitis), I've felt more or less continually on the verge of going down with a cold/flu since bloody November.

Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5803
  • Karma: +231/-4
2 in 1 (or not, as I can't really remember week 160)
STG - Wrist rehab stuff, run regularly, get in shape for MTG
MTG - Peak + font before spring, if I do any hard stuff that'll be nice too.
LTG - 8A, 68kg

Wk 160 - can't really remember, few sessions at TCA on Oranges and Mothership stuff, worked the weekend, drove to folkstone sun eve...
Wk 161 -
M - up early for eurotunnel and blizzardy stressful drive to font, wet when I got there at 2 - made the sun eve drive and early start a bit pointless really, oh well. Hooked up with LukeH of this parish and a bunch of other Bristol folk and abused their hospitality - warm dry gite >> van life when its wet and cold. Armaided my elbow, felt good.
T - trek round decathlon as is traditional in this situation, more Armaiding
W - 95.2, Gorgeous day, blue skies, snow on the ground but most of the boulders dry. Failed dismally (again) on Le Test de Turing and Pince-Toi, but managed Captain Hook. Sadly has a proper razor of a crimp to finish, and I split my right index tip on the successful go. Managed Rudeboy in the eve with lights later, pleased to get this as had given up on it after a previous session.
T - Rempart, session working Big Boss. No tick, but first progress in a long time - did RH move round lip, and tickled the good edge with LH. Snooze in the sun/snow showers, then met others at Bois Rond and got Constellation des Amoureux and its assis pretty quick (Bleau.info says loose flake, didn't notice this at the time, perhaps it broke off a while ago?)
F - Cuisiniere, token failure on Entorse to definitely cross it off the possibles list. then mooched around chatting rest of the day.
S - Isatis, proper gradual warm up, then l'Arrache Coeur. third go that day, had had 2 attempts a couple of years ago as well. Well chuffed, wanted to do this for ages. Awesome problem though about 7B

Then over to Deux Faux Plis en Plats Réels for a play. Not much progress, but good to watch Jase get it sorted.
S - wet in morning, home.

68kg

Elbow pain free! Pleased this seems to have cleared up pretty quick. Armaid did seem to help  :worms:

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29330
  • Karma: +635/-12
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
though about 7B

It is using a kneebar :)

Good effort!

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal