[travs]

This is located just left of Mr Sheen which is in itself left of the Grogan. Sit start on the obvious good diagonal rail, flick up right handed to the obvious sloper pinch and continue directly up past a still very difficult press. The meat of the problem is in latching the sloper and moving your left foot onto the rail to then move upwards to the good break.

I've spent a lot of time on this but that doesn't necessarily mean it's hard so go and repeat it and let me know what you think.

[dave]

Nice one travs, we tried this the other week, felt good and hard, and was thinking it would suit the shorter gent. I was getting closest starting mega bunched up with heel on. Did you finish up mr sheen?

[travs]

Cheers Dave, didn't have my heel on, just pasted left foot on the wall further left. The finish goes straight up via a press, left foot has a slight heel-toe / scuff and you pull on a couple of pebbles to a big pebble just below the break and then you reach right handed to the hold you go for on Mr Sheen just below the big flake. If you're tall enough you could probably go again left handed to a good hold just further on from the pebble.

[Scouse D]

Nice one Travs, Like Dave said we were trying this start as a sitter to Mr Sheen. We worked out 3 potential sequences from that start to the break but didn't manage any of them! Well keen to get back there although the sequence you descibe felt uber bunched to me.

[travs]

Yeah it is bunched but that's part of the beauty of it - it makes the deadpoint redicoulously dificult! Each time I've tried it I reckon it takes about 20 minutes to get to a point to where you think you will stop on the sloper and then another 20 minutes before you stop on it and your able to get your heel on to make the next move. Even then it's not all over as you have to grab a small hold with your left hand and lurch into the break. I had the small hold 3 weeks ago as Mr Farah will testify but couldn't make the lurch! Bouldering it's either bloody frustrating or bloody brilliant!

[Nigel]

I had the small hold 3 weeks ago as Mr Farah will testify but couldn't make the lurch! Bouldering it's either bloody frustrating or bloody brilliant!

Did he do the Mobot when you ticked it?

[dave]

Each time I've tried it I reckon it takes about 20 minutes to get to a point to where you think you will stop on the sloper and then another 20 minutes before you stop on it and your able to get your heel on to make the next move. Even then it's not all over as you have to grab a small hold with your left hand and lurch into the break. I had the small hold 3 weeks ago as Mr Farah will testify but couldn't make the lurch! Bouldering it's either bloody frustrating or bloody brilliant!

Did you try it with the heel on at all? Might work well for your size, and bingo the heels then already on for the next move.

[travs]

Yeah I did try it with the heel on a fair bit but what I found was that whilst I could get my hand to the hold (just) I couldn't get underneath it sufficiently to stop on it.

[El Mocho]

Repeated this today - good. Crux is probably the start but the top is pretty stiff to! On the ascent I came up just short of the 'big' pebble and had to drop back to the break and try a second time...

Think I then did the normal sitter to Mr Sheen (the vid in the other thread doesn't seem to work) and then did a new version starting on In The Flick... but getting the sloper/pinch with left hand and going to the nose on Mr Sheen then left hand to break. Finished up Mr Sheen and ITFOT. This is prob 7B+ going up Mr Sheen and maybe (or maybe not) 7C finishing up ITFOT.

They were all pretty good.