[psychomansam]

The triathlon thing is a bit crappy, but you can see why they've done it. It sells the idea well and should make for decent watching. It strikes me that they're being pragmatic, so maybe it's justified. Who knows.
I think indoor climbing is a great sport in it's own right these days and we can be cynical about the chances, but is has to be said that if I, or most of us, were reading this realising we have a shot at entering the olympics for team GB 2020, we'd be pretty fucking psyched.

[Bonjoy]

And lead climbing is all about gaining height?!

That' generally how lead climbs work, yes. Have you never watched one?

In the most literal of ways yes. Just like running the 100m is all about gaining distance.

[Johnny Brown]

No, the 100m is about being fastest; its more like the speed climbing event. Do you even own a tv?

If the route setters have done their job right, a lead comp is about who gets highest, pure and simple. I'm not sure what you're driving at, they did away with style points years ago...

[Bonjoy]

Alright, alright. In climbing comp terms leading is about gaining height. Outside of comps leading is more about doing good lots of good and/or challenging moves, rather than gaining feet off the ground, that's what I meant, but it's a pretty weak point so I won't labour it any more.

[Johnny Brown]

Ah right, I see. I think outside of comps it's lots of different things to different people but still, comps are not a million miles away from a bunch of climbers trying to onsight a hard sport route. Whereas speed climbing just seems to have been pulled out of someone's arse.

[kingholmesy]

Graeme, what do you think are climbing's chances of getting in?
I have ... read on a few (non-climbing) sites that they rate its chances as very low.

Fingers crossed.

[Oldmanmatt]

Y'know, it'll make no difference to a days cragging!

People who train for this event (if it happens), will be doing it indoors.

Two out of the three disciplines are true to the "sport" of climbing and speed climbing is no more alien to Cragging than the 100mtrs is to Fell running.

Commercialisation also brings more opportunity for people to make a living from the sport they love.
Who hasn't wished they could get paid to climb? (Those who aren't good enough I mean, like me).

It won't increase the number of people who brave the elements for a Snowballing session...

And might even result in cheaper kit for all of us.

[crimp]

I think i am quite neutral on it.

On plus side i enjoy watching well edited and commentated comp footage.

Even on the nicest days the wall will be heaving, while crags are lightly trafficked, and sometimes deserted. I've met several wall climbers who enter comps who have told me climbing outdoors is too much faffing about. So the impact of comps on trad is negligible.

It gives some people a lot of pleasure (never been inclined myself, and i am too shite by a long shot).


On the negative side, sometimes it all seems a bit whooping x games type stuff for my liking.

The Olympics is really about sponsors not sport. And they want sexy cos sexy sells. I think the BMC are practically willing to accept any conditions to get into Olympics, like speed climbing (pile of crap, but that's just my opinion). I do worry it might end up as a cross between beach volleyball and gladiators.

There could be a bleed of the ethos and comps to outdoors.

On balance, i don't think i will care whether it makes the Olympics or not.

Can't hold back the tide. And i believe there's enough of us with enough passion to accept it into our church and keep it self policed out their on the rock.

Ps. I will only accept Olympic climbing if the blessed booms the commentary out.

[chris j]

If we don't get in this time, will that be it? Or will we have to suffer the BMC enthusing that we should support the bid every four years ad infinitum?

 

[c3po]

I skipped from the first page to the last so may have missed some stuff.

I think it sounds like a good idea, in the UK our climbers may not win the sport dicipline but they could make up the points with bouldering and speed. 

In the UK scene there's definately respect for someone who shines in their dicpline but there seems to be a greater respect for those who do quite well across all diciplines (McCleod, Haston, Bransby and so on).

It would probably be more acurate an assessment of the worlds best climber if we could see who was best overall, should someone be crowned Olympic Champion because they are great at one dicipline or good across the board?

[crimp]

I think you'd have a hard time finding many British climbers taking speed climbing  seriously.

I think BMC were a bit Olympics at any price there.

[Oldmanmatt]

I think you'd have a hard time finding many British climbers taking speed climbing  seriously.

I think BMC were a bit Olympics at any price there.

Yeah, if they're taking speed; they probably won't be too serious when they climb.

Loud, maybe...

[Oldmanmatt]

Sorry...

[crimp]

No need to apologise.

Speed climbing sounds shite.

But, acid climbing, in the boulder bunker, by strobe light and spinning glitter ball, on roller skates.

Now that's am Olympic event i would watch.

[SA Chris]

While I'm not ecstatic about the speed part of the triathlon, I would rather put up with it if it means bouldering is included rather than just lead climbing on its own, which was what I was originally expecting.

[davej]

Looks like climbing is up against some really tough opposition for the single place. Out of interest is there likely to be a trial of the climbing triathlon format in the UK in the near future?

[Will Hunt]

How do I get stonger? Is there much training involved?

[GraemeA]

Looks like climbing is up against some really tough opposition for the single place. Out of interest is there likely to be a trial of the climbing triathlon format in the UK in the near future?

If we do get in the games then the format will be finalised by the IFSC then I am sure you will see events organised with the new format. Currently thoug there is only Ratho has a speed wall although DavieD is supposed to be putting one in his Sheffield wall.

[SA Chris]

Out of curiosity, how does a speed wall differ from any other wall? Surely it's just a case of having a big button wired in at the top?

[ianv]

Out of curiosity, how does a speed wall differ from any other wall? Surely it's just a case of having a big button wired in at the top?

It might have changed now, but they used to be vertical or just slightly overhanging with big jugs all the way up. Have to say, for spectators its probably the most interesting form of climbing comp so its probably been put in as a sop to the tele.

[GraemeA]

Out of curiosity, how does a speed wall differ from any other wall? Surely it's just a case of having a big button wired in at the top?

There are 2 formats, World Record and Classic.

Classic is on a none standard wall with a new route every comp

WR is a standard route on a standard wall

[davej]

What's the length of the routes?

[SA Chris]

Out of curiosity, how does a speed wall differ from any other wall? Surely it's just a case of having a big button wired in at the top?

There are 2 formats, World Record and Classic.

Classic is on a none standard wall with a new route every comp

WR is a standard route on a standard wall

For WR, you mean the same holds are used, set the same distance apart in the same sequence?

Ianv, I am sure you are right and that it has been included as a crowd pleaser.

[LB1782]

For WR, you mean the same holds are used, set the same distance apart in the same sequence?

The wall at Ratho has 2 identical routes side by side that have the same holds in the same sequence. I think all the qualifying WR routes are the same angle flat panels with the same holds in same places. The routes are TR'd as a vague guess I suppose the route would get 6a+.

[SA Chris]

Cheers. I'm sure it will make for rivetting viewing for experienced climbers!