[paulh]

I just watched the vid of Matt spencer climbing T Crack, the question is if you use the big block at the back for your feet do you still get the V8 tick?

I was told that this was not in - i reckon they were having me on - It has been known to happen.

full T Crack Beta please

ta
Paul

[Bubba]

Unsure about this - most people start from the block at the back for the low start, and use a foot on it as well, although I think it can be done without as there's a good pocket that you can get a toe in under the roof.

Probably a similar grade either way - FatboySlimfast - what's the numbers here, any idea??

[hongkongstuey]

when fatboyslimfast did it with me watching he used the block - can't see avoiding it being that worthwhile really - if its there its gotta be graded for using it - hasn't it??

anyway - i'm off to the pub to get pissed as a fart

[james]

This is the way I do it,
Start on the block at the back and go into the big (well, bigger than most of the others) pocket under the roof with your right hand.  Move your left hand into the pocket next to it.  Span out rightwards to the lower crack with your right hand and move both feet up to the top of the block.  Get a toe hook with your left foot in the pocket you had your right hand in.  Take your left hand off and pull through to the top crack.  Match in the crack, take your left foot out of the pocket and hold the swing (it might help if you put your right foot on a little nubbin out right).  Campus through with your right hand to the sloping pocket.  Place your left foot in the lower crack and pull hard to get the top pocket with your left hand.  Make sure you dont fall off on the easy top out moves .
Hope this helps.
Cheers

James

[paulh]

Cheers guys - I was thinking, surely you cant use the big block at the back for your feet for this grade, and finding it really hard to matvh in the crack just smearing on the back wall...

but then I always try to make things harder for myself ... like eating like a f*cking pig and getting fat and weak over Xmas for example.

paul

[Bonjoy]

I always used to find the top the crux on this until i tried this uber-beta. Once you've got the main break, share and swing a left foot heel-toe in LH side of break. The pocket can then be reached static, shared and then its just a fairly steady reach for the top, rather than a scarey fall on your head slap.

[dave]

fucking hell i gots to try that! nice one.

the closest i've been to doing the top was flipping the break to an undercut once i had the slopey pocket and standing up into it (like the vid on this site) - quite strange staring the top jug in the face and still failing to hold it.

[Carnage]

Me too!!!!!

Never occurred to me to do it that way and match the slopey pocket.

DOH!!  Now whens the weather gonna be better?  :D

[Bonjoy]

You can thank bendy Kim Thompson for that beta. The hardest move doing it this way is getting the heel toe in, but once its in, Bob's yer monkey.

[account_inactive]

I must have the weirdest way to do it then........
After holding the two pocket undercuts at the start I hold the T crack with my right hand and toe hook with my RIGHT foot, which means you can reach the break static.  Even my shorty mate duncan could do it this way.  It only involves rolling your right shoulder.
I always thought the top was the crux until i learnt how to use the top pocket.  I campus to get it and then stick my left foot in the crack.  The 1st time i did it i used the undercut beta.  This gives you a feel for how the pocket needs to be pulled on (if that makes sense).  The next time I did it I just pulled through to the top with my left hand. Piss.
After that the top goes footless fairly easily.
Just gotta get the knack as they say
I loved this problem so much I worked all the varients

[al]

the way it was originally climbed was from the block in the back,as start for hands and just climb the thing, hands as feet - we also used to use the chipped hold left of the middle break.......anything went back then!!
(have always wanted to remove the block on the right under the arete though )

[Scouse D]

Aye but it'd probably fall down Al!

[mark]

Left again from the chipped hold is a natural pocket. Another way to do the problem is to reach left hand far out left to this once you've come round the bulge and got established on the slopey break. With feet on smears, slap right hand to the pocket...

then slap again with the right hand to the jug. No chipped holds used. Robert's your auntie's special friend.

[dave]

i was never sure whether that pocket was also chipped or not. If its natural, then bring it on.

[Johnny Brown]

I would call that 'traversing off below the crux, then back on above it'

Rub that tick out now!! :wink:

The heel-toe method is also generally regarded as taking faggottry too far, as Gib knows only too well. He was minding his own business at the base when a certain yorkshire climber, known for a penchant for heel-hooking, had a bright idea...
"Fuck, we've all been being muppets. A heel-hook's the way"
He duly did the start, placed the heel on and casually reached up... at which point the heel popped and his leg and sportiva-clad foot described a lightning fast arc of which Bruce Lee would've been proud... neatly breaking Gib's nose as he generously reached up to spot. Ouch.

 "They're a disease, and they need a cure"   :wink:

[a dense loner]

too right, some heel hookin goin on at the tor today. disgustin

[bondosan]

Mark, that's a wicked image of t-crack. what lens did you use ?
gotta get me one of those !

[mark]

Mark, that's a wicked image of t-crack. what lens did you use ?
gotta get me one of those !

No idea about the lens, I'm afraid. Pete O'Donovan took the picture, I was just the stunt-monkey. Mr O'Donovan does bake exceedingly good photographs.

[Ru]

I don't believe it. There's three golden rules for T-Crack:

1) No heel hooks, and certainly no heel-toes.

2) None of them holds in the left bit of the break and certainly not the chipped one.

3) No undercutting the top break either.

So stop it. And if you used one of these methods to do it you can look forward to doing it again properly. It's for your own good.

Note: Lack of grinning/winking emoticon thing. I mean it.

[Johnny Brown]

The first two I agree with - as I said before its traversing off.
Undercutting the top break is, however, totally acceptable. It may be verging on a clever dick sequence, but that doesn't make it wrong

[cofe]

I don't believe it. There's three golden rules for T-Crack:

1) No heel hooks, and certainly no heel-toes.

2) None of them holds in the left bit of the break and certainly not the chipped one.

3) No undercutting the top break either.

So stop it. And if you used one of these methods to do it you can look forward to doing it again properly. It's for your own good.

Note: Lack of grinning/winking emoticon thing. I mean it.

I believe this is generally regarded as being the "man's way".

Johnny...undercutting...the shame of it.... i thought you only pulled down :roll: