[Muenchener]

STG: Get back into something resembling regular training.
MTG (2013): Frankenjura VII onsight; Alpine multipitch VI; Welsh trad E2
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

Missed last week to family emergency:

M - S: in uk for family emergency, no time for walls / bouldering / exercise of any kind except the odd bit of yoga practice

This week: application of my radical new training insight - I will definitely never get up harder routes if I never try any.

M: Finally time for a wall visit: Loughborough Climbing Station. Impressed. Couple of dozen problems up to V4/5 (salmon) then circuits 2 x 6b, 2 x 6c, half x 7a
T: Mobility, tabata pressups, tabata bw squats
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Routes 5c 5c 6a+ 6b 6a+ 6a+; 7a project did all but one of the moves, but that one move feels ridiculous.
T: Wall, Boulderwelt. Circuits. 5c 5c 6a+ 6b then working a harder project. Did the first 20 moves of a 30 move 7a circuit in two overlapping sections, but some of the remaining moves feel like the living end.
F: Alpine approach training: 4 x 40 stories stair run in office with rucksack full of water bottles. Desperate: have lost fitness through being ill in Jan/Feb
S:
S: Snowboarding, Lenggries. Good spring snow but horribly crowded. Rented a rocker board to try out of curiosity, but didn't notice much difference on piste (just as dowturned shoes make little difference on 5s at the wall)

[csl]

"

This week: application of my radical new training insight - I will definitely never get up harder routes if I never try any.

I found this to be the most important change in my climbing i've ever made, good luck with it!

Goals for Feb.
Purple 7b on 45º - not done, so very close but injured a pulley on it last time i tried.
Density Bouldering http://climbstrong.wordpress.com/2010/06/09/density-training/ twice a week - done(ish) definitely saw a massive improvement in PE.
Strength sessions twice a week - done. Pre injuries probably got as strong indoors as I've ever been
Get outside twice 1/2 - managed 1. Need to get out more!

Mon- Climbing, strength. Some hard problems but had to stop when my finger started hurting.
Tue- Run, hill reps.
Wed- Rehabing finger and 14.5km run.
Thu-
Fri- Westway session. Mainly easyish climbing on jugs up to 6c. Good to get pumped on a rope, but a pity the main steep wall was being reset. Finger ached a bit, but partner assured me this was ok.
Sat- Parkrun 5km. 18 minutes. Gonna call this my year goal of sub 18 5k done cos i definitely lost about 5 seconds slipping on the muddy finish straight! Very happy with this, although winning a park run still alludes me i managed to come 2nd out of about 80.
Sun- Climbing. ARC/Aerocap. Not really sure what it was really, got pumped climbing for 20 minutes and did some steeper circuits of around 80 moves afterwards.

Goals for March.
Rehab finger
Rehab shoulder
Get really fit whilst recovering - try to do 4/5 endurance orientated sessions a week
Run an 17.50 park run.
Go outside!

[shark]

Thanks Muenchener

Weight 11st 8-10

Mon.   
Tues. PM Weighted deadhangs. 15mm edge +27.5kg (9, 9 and 10 secs)
Weds.
Thurs. Malham. Hot and dry but err hot. Went on the top half of the Oak. Hard work in the sun. Toes and tips painful by the time it went in shade.     Hard to get a fix on how the session went but definitely felt weak on the gastons which may be because I havent trained them or because of my niggly shoulder       
Fri.     
Sat. AM. CWIF with the boys. Beat them but didn't qualify
Sun.

Oak dry so reorganised myself so can go up 3 times this week. Hope shoulder holds out.

[cheque]

M- Rest.
Good luck on the Oak Shark.

STG- E2 on grit before it gets too warm, all of Sidewinders punter problems on the Notts Depot systems board.
MTG- 7B, 7b and E3 in 2013.

T- Notts Depot bouldering. Didn't tick anything new on the plastic but did some new ones on systems board. Still feeling a bit sore and tired from Sunday.
W- Notts Depot circuit board- five laps of yellow circuit w/ 7 minute rest between each. Felt OK- going for 6 monutes rests next Wednesday. Tried bouldering after- wasn't happening.
T- Attempted max hangs but felt bad warming up so sacked it.
F- Rest.
S- Walking round London. I find this the most tiring thing I do all month strangely.
S- Rest.

With the springish weather and my boulder projects ticked I now find myself psyched for routes again. Been really tired all week so taking a break as a kind of divider between these two phases. Hoping to get on some grit trad this coming weekend.

[Duma]

STG - Wrist rehab stuff, run regularly, get in shape for MTG
MTG - Peak + font before spring, if I do any hard stuff that'll be nice too.
LTG - 8A, 68kg

M - failed to rest elbow, couldn't resist nipping in for quick hour on the new oranges at TCA before work. Not great session, felt like hard work tbh.
T -
W -
T -
F - Dentist (again...) then Sand Point to have a look at the Middle Hope prow. First rock in 2013! Pretty sharp, and a little damp, but dryable, and managed an ascent in an hour or so. Really pleased, was good to pull hard on real rock, and certainly the best line I've done on the local coast. Then nights.
S - Nights.
S - got up a bit early to get to TCA before work, Mothership has been reset, can't say I'm especially inspired by this lot so only had a brief play, then trying the more of new oranges. Managed to tick off a fair few that felt like I should have done them on Monday, so good. Nothing hard though. Then nights.

69kg - unsurprisingly last weekend resulted in a bit of gain, and I've not managed a run for a while.

Elbow still tweaky, but a little better I think - last week was pretty light which prob helped.

[fried]

Another week and the moving continues....you think it's finished but, no.

Monday - Saturday - Grafting in the house. Buy a Beastmaker that I've been given permission to mount in the bedroom. On Friday I manage to put the thing up.

Sunday - Beautiful weather and I manage to skive off for a few hours. Unusual for me but I choose a visit to Cuvier to have a look at the eastern section. Start with a few blue problems, then get completely shut down on l'arete de marbre up the slope from le Prestat. Drop back down to the popular bit and do a couple of blue problems, one of which I'd got shut down on before. Check my watch and it's time to get back to carrying boxes. Nice start to the spring, but seriously need some topping out practice.

Weight 73.4kg this morning. Amazing what some real graft and skipping a lot of meals can do.

[shark]

Weight 73.4kg this morning. Amazing what some real graft and skipping a lot of meals can do.

Change your name to grilled

[nai]

M - weights - TGUs, cleans, deadlifts & renegade rows
T - core - 10 mins of planks & dishes, 5x20 renegade rows
w
T _ Baslow with tomtom, started well, faded but best efforts yet on Flatworld & FWLH.
F - Burb Sth, eventually worked out how to do Triangle Wall but was too tired to finish it off
s- 6km run
S - unexpected pass granted, went back to Triangle Wall, after a nasty start:



got it done:



Then went on another old nemesis, Little Rascal, and sussed the beta for it but again pretty tired and skin threatening to give out so had to walk away.

Done a lot of naval gazing this week, been in a form-dip throughout February (as usual) and trying to work out why. 
Could be that upping volume (55hrs Feb vs 27hrs Jan) and frequency (22/6 active/rest vs 18/13) has impacted performance.
On a positive note my elbow's feeling much better so hopefully be able to start deadhanging again soon.
With the lime drying, probably time to start thinking about that again and also got font coming up in 4 weeks so try to replicate last year's approach which worked so well.

[Fiend]

Nice one, well done for getting the mat slip chin grind as your weekly Vimeo HD allowance, but not that actual bouldering video 

[Dolly]

M back hurt a lot after Sunday so did loads of core with my big exercise ball at work to try and sort it out
T Foundry board at lunchtime. Good sess and good for my back
W shed in the evening. Saw the shoulder specialist who said that I didn't need an op I just need to do loads of physio and it could take months to get better. I'm relatively happy with that, so will just persevere.
T Too much work
F Took a looong lunch break. Went to the Plantation where I failed yet again on Zippy's traverse. Fuck knows why I can't do this bloody problem. Flashed Al's Attic, although I'd previously done the problem it finishes up, before going back to work.
S 5.5k run
S Only had a very short window and wasted most of it walking around underneath Gardom's where everything I wanted to do was either green, wet or needed a spot.

[i_a_coops]

Fri- Westway session. Mainly easyish climbing on jugs up to 6c. Good to get pumped on a rope, but a pity the main steep wall was being reset. Finger ached a bit, but partner assured me this was ok.

Disclaimer: it doesn't look like your finger is totally fucked, but I would definitely stay the hell away from crimping until it stops aching during sessions....

[iain]

@Nai - kudos for getting it done after the fall, it's not just kids that bounce

@Dolly - That's (sort of) good news about the shoulder


STG: Rehab finger, it's improving although I'm a bit fed up with icing and haven't been doing as much.

Did some oh fingerboarding and a lot of work this week. Font in 2 weeks

[nai]

Went to the Plantation where I failed yet again on Zippy's traverse. Fuck knows why I can't do this bloody problem.

key for me on this was ignoring the pocket for left heel, just get as much rubber and trouser on the slab as you can.  Also, before releasing the left heel/leg there's a low foothold for the right which stops you swinging off as you come around the corner.

[Dolly]

OK cheers - do you mean the right foothold to the right of the arete ? - low down ?

[fried]

Weight 73.4kg this morning. Amazing what some real graft and skipping a lot of meals can do.

Change your name to grilled

Don't worry I'll be back on the curry next week

[nai]

My memory has it left of the arete but it'll be fresher in yours, definitely somewhere near the arete and yes very low down.

EDIT, here you go, not exactly as I remember it but hohum:

[Dolly]

Great thanks
God you're flexible aren't you ?

[tommytwotone]

STG/LTG: Font 7b

M: Still battered, scuffed and sore after previous day's team effort at Boyager, didn't do anything physical as even lifting a cup of coffee caused considerable pain!
T: Gym on lunch, had no "go" at all. Sacked it rather than injure myself.
W: Nowt.
T: Good City Bloc session including a few flashes of the yellow (Font 6c - 7a ish) circuit problems. So much better since they carpeted the mats there, now they just need to do the other half of the place.
F: Badminton after work with Mrs Z, then started feeling a bit weird afterwards. Suddenly lost appetite when I'd cooked dinner and then just wanted to go to sleep.
S: Woke up after terrible night's sleep feeling awful - crushing headache, whole body hurting, shivers...yes indeed, a nice bout of flu. Looked out of window only to be greeted by a perfect gritstone day. Bugger.
S: More feeling terrible.

[nai]

Great thanks
God you're flexible aren't you ?

Think I did this 3-4 years ago, not sure I could do that now

[tomtom]

Great thanks
God you're flexible aren't you ?

Think I did this 3-4 years ago, not sure I could do that now

2-3 years since I tried this, but I think its not mega flexible as one leg is high and the other low - rather than being split apart at the same level (if that makes sense).

PS. I found it fecking nails then and not been back on it since...

[nai]

You actually took that picture, Tom.  Pretty sure that was the day I did it, it was December 2009.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: Finger, eatswood, F8a.

M: Nowt
T: Bouldering, Fingerboard (no pain - woo hoo!), AeroCap.
W: Works - AeroCap
T: Stretch + Rest
F: AnCap + AeroCap + Fingerboard
S&S Rest.

Starting week of a new cycle trying to get some fittness after messing about snowboarding. The season is almost upon us... Keen for Call of Nature if anyone can tell me if it's dry...?

This week: Ramp up the AnCap, AeroCap and keep an eye on the finger! Get on ET or CON..

:D

[nai]

Keen for Call of Nature if anyone can tell me if it's dry...?

Middle routes dry according to connies reports thread.  Keen to pick this up from last year too, might be free Thursday or Friday?  Hopefully someone will have reported back before then

[rich d]

Mon long work day - so just low cals
Tue tca glasgow
Wed tca glasgow
Thur long work day - another low cals
Fri day off
Sat quick session at notts depot - flashed 15 and 16 comp problems, did all new blues then completely ran out of steam
Sun rest especially as I seemed to pick up a cold overnight.
This week's wall visits are going to be restricted so fb at home + core work and keep food and alcohol low are the goals.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Keen for Call of Nature if anyone can tell me if it's dry...?

Middle routes dry according to connies reports thread.  Keen to pick this up from last year too, might be free Thursday or Friday?  Hopefully someone will have reported back before then

Keep me posted - kinda busy this week but might be able to juggle things around back end of the week...