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Burbage nth new 8bloc (Read 2771 times)

a dense loner

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Burbage nth new 8bloc
March 02, 2013, 10:28:14 am
Don't think jons reported this but on thursday the evergreen Iain farrar added a new 8a roof ish problem at burbage nth. No name as yet, he wouldn't use my class name and instead offered a terrible one which hopefully he won't use. Basically Iain n Peggy shifted lots of boulders under it about this time last yr and we went about trying it while being sworn to secrecy because of the amount of effort put into making it into a problem. He said its the thing he's probably worked the most on and off. It's a class problem even tho it's in a small dank cave, marred only by the last but one move being a bit dabable. Actually it sounds shit, but isn't.
My directions won't be very good here but walk 30m past the easy route slabs, I think they're on same buttress as radioactive dustbin then head straight up to the top of the crag and you'll see a hole as you look to your left. Enter the wonderland
Sitstart far right on or hands below wobbly chock stone then bust all the way leftwards on a sloping rail of joy, finishing in the daylight

dave

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#1 Burbage nth new 8bloc
March 02, 2013, 02:01:29 pm
Does this use the foot plinth? I heard he was trying it without it. Shame about the dabby exit.

a dense loner

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#2 Re: Burbage nth new 8bloc
March 02, 2013, 02:34:30 pm
Foot plinth? It's been a while dave I can't remember a foot plinth, if u mean the right side of the chock stone then I think we put toe hooks in straight away so no, tho in my defence this could be a bare faced lie. Them moves were trivial but still to be done unless you're sponsored then you may as well miss them out. It is a pity that the exit detracts from some quality climbing

dave

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#3 Re: Burbage nth new 8bloc
March 02, 2013, 02:40:09 pm
No I'm on about the low foot ramp thing that comes in about half way through the ramp. I had a go at the second half of this last year, found the ramp bit OK but getting out of the cave without dabbing hard/impossible. As I say I'd heard he was trying it sans plinth, so wondering if this thats being reported is that without plinth or with.

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#4 Re: Burbage nth new 8bloc
March 02, 2013, 03:29:07 pm
I'll ask him dave I remember toes n heels all the way, I don't recall using a plinth at all

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#5 Re: Burbage nth new 8bloc
March 02, 2013, 07:47:08 pm
 :great: Effort to Iain.

It's plinthless, it doesn't use anything other than the block itself. Pretty much all heelhooking with the odd foothold on the wall below. Coming at it sans plinth sets you up for a dab free exit as you are kind of pointing headfirst at the exit. The hard bit is the middle, but it's all very falloffable. You have to get the heels placed just so.

Best way to find it is to go to All Quiet on the Eastern Front then cut back left at the same level. It's about 25m from AQOTEF.

 

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