[Dolly]

I tried it yesterday by pulling on with my right hand in the good pocket, left foot on the good hold at the bottom of the arete.
Then left hand to a crimp in the break - as far as I could reach to the left. Right hand up to something on the arete, right foot on the arete, then start pushing up on that foot and trying to slap my right hand up the arete towards the obvious hold higher up.
Any help please ?

[Scouse D]

I've done the stand-up and sitter independently. With the LH in the slot put R heel in pocket and rock up hard to the right to get high crimp with RH. I then stood up as high as possible and slapped again with rh to top. This worked for me as my fingers felt too weak to pull through off the crimp. Dave got the crimp with RH then brought LH out of slot into big pebble he then pulled through to top with LH.
This is a good problem and in my opinion every bit 7b+, the stand up alone felt 7b.

As an aside there is a very good sit start just round to the right which is about 7a on nice holds (a good fallback tick if you're getting spanked on stottie!)

[dave]

Like scoose says, LH in crimp in break, bump RH out of the pocket on a sloper on arete about same level as the crimp, right heel in pocket and do a long rock/throw to go up to the obvious high arete hold, its a knacky move and you've got to really milk that heel in the pocket.

[dave]

Actually I got this photo of the above punter on this with shortie's compact:



You can see the arete sloper by his knee.

[Dolly]

Cheers for the replies and the pic.
I think that makes sense. I need to try with heel rather than toe on the arête next time

[Dolly]

Are you really tall Scouse ?
It looks like you can reach that hold with your left foot quite low down

[Scouse D]

5'11''  So not really

[Jim]

what your ape index tho......?

[Scouse D]

not tellin.....









(+4)

[Stu Littlefair]

Wolfram Alpha reckons that height puts you in the top 25% of all adult males. Coupled with that wingspan I'm afraid you have to accept that you're a genetic freak and start asking hard questions about why you aren't burning ondra off

[SA Chris]

Nice one for the overbite files.

[Bonjoy]

Seeing this thread reminded me to have a go at this. Did it today after a fair struggle. Totally class problem I thought, reminded me of Fight on Black at Widdop but with nicer holds. The key for me on the crux was putting left foot on a black pebble smear on the arete 6 inch above the start foothold. Then did the top a la Parry. I'd agree with Scouse on the grade, 7b for standing and 7b+ for the sitter. Deserves a lot more attention than it gets I reckon.

[Johnny Brown]

Totally class problem I thought, reminded me of Fight on Black at Widdop but with nicer holds

Really? I must be thinking of the wrong problem.

[Bonjoy]

Vertical rounded aretes. Slapping up with RH off slightly bind heelhooks. Can't think of anything more similiar to FoB. Tomaito/tomarto, whatever.

[Nigel]

Totally class problem I thought, reminded me of Fight on Black at Widdop but with nicer holds

Really? I must be thinking of the wrong problem.

No you're not, its that one at Froggatt you couldn't do 

I did this at the weekend as well, separately to Bonjoy so beta slightly different - with heel in pocket, RH over to big pebble on face, then udge LF up wall before an accurate slap to edge. Using pebble allowed me to adjust LH in slot to get it well before slap. Then I came LH into same pebble, then RH to top. Really good problem I thought, and I'd agree that 7b+ from sitting is more like it.

[dave]

Thinking about it now, I might have to switch to Nige's beta to get the slot better.

[Johnny Brown]

In that case its too long since I did Fight on black, which I remember a) being slabby b) more of a rockover and c) on much nicer holds (you really prefer that LH slot?). But I might be mistaken. They are both gritstone aretes, I'll give you that.

[Bonjoy]

Generous. There's a few way to do FoB I think. Nowt wrong with that slot, especially if you have lady's fingers like I do. FoB always shreds my tips, but that could be cos I've only been on it with bad skin on warm ways.

[Dolly]

So many ways to try next and not a dry day in sight 

[GCW]

FoB always shreds my tips, but that could be cos I've only been on it with bad skin on warm ways.

I've always thought FoB was quite friendy.  A reminder for JB.