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Terry, Caley (Read 3211 times)

andyd

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Terry, Caley
February 28, 2013, 08:26:51 pm
Has anyone done this with 'non lank' beta? I've got to a point where I can statically reach out with my left hand for the side pull with my middle finger on the RH of the two pebbles but I'm still an inch off latching it. I am 5ft 10inches with a zero ape index, so not short, but all the videos I've seen use this beta.
Please help oh learned ones :bow:

Nike Air

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#1 Re: Terry, Caley
February 28, 2013, 10:03:27 pm
try jumping out to the bottom better part of that hold. It was wild but worked for me.

andyd

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#2 Re: Terry, Caley
February 28, 2013, 10:07:26 pm
Let go of the pebbles and grab the left hold before you fall off?

Nike Air

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#3 Re: Terry, Caley
February 28, 2013, 10:31:55 pm
Dont blame me if u get whiplash though.....

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#4 Re: Terry, Caley
February 28, 2013, 11:38:57 pm
This is slightly unfair as you are getting beta from someone who is ridiculously strong/good at rock climbing. Just a note of caution...

SA Chris

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#5 Re: Terry, Caley
March 01, 2013, 06:39:31 am
So the beta is "get ridiculously strong/good at rock climbing"

sjw

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#6 Re: Terry, Caley
March 01, 2013, 07:33:26 am
You can use the vague RH crimp just left of the pebbles after taking the LH pebble for the extra span. I tried it this way, seemed feasible but definitely harder.

Johnny Brown

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#7 Re: Terry, Caley
March 01, 2013, 09:55:11 am
You can use the vague RH crimp just left of the pebbles after taking the LH pebble for the extra span. I tried it this way, seemed feasible but definitely harder.

Back when I had this wired we used a variation on this, I think there is a choice of two poor holds above the two pebbles - nipple clamp pebble by face with left, sit on foot, udge right hand, reach left. Its still a bit of a flop out onto the big hold though.

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#8 Re: Terry, Caley
March 01, 2013, 10:23:29 am
The method JB describes is how we all used to do it back in the day - never saw anyone do it with the big span off the double pebbles. The crimp you move your right hand to is just on the slight ramp and up and left from the pebbles and has a key little spot for your index finger (get a brush on a stick...) and although the move out left is still hard it is not a big reach.

andyd

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#9 Re: Terry, Caley
March 01, 2013, 01:40:31 pm
Thank you. Karma points to all. Off I go. Round 3...

 

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