[tomtom]

10 pairs of shoes in a year?

Shit - I've got through a pair of Supermoccs and nearly one pair of Anasazi Velcro's in 18 months...

[Marky]

Anybody know how much these stretch and how the sizing compares to Vapour Velcros?

[thrashhard]

They are all Lorica and are covered with rubber everywhere. I wouldn´t expect much stretch.

[Ste]

They fit slightly smaller than the Vapour Velcro. However, I would get them the same size as even after 6 months of hard use mine haven't stretched 1/3 of a shoe size.

We haven't had any of our online orders returned for incorrect sizing so far. We do offer free postage so the only cost to you would be the return postage if they didn't fit.

www.theclimbingdepot.co.uk/shop/product/scarpa-instinct-vs

[benj_d]

Anyone with narrow feet using these? (I usually wear evolv/five ten shoes)

Got a free pair of Scarpa's to claim and these seem like the obvious choice...

[andy_e]

Been winning comps Ben?

[benj_d]

Been winning comps Ben?

Not quite... 

[standard]

I fancy trying a pair of these but no shops around my way stock them.
So I'm internet only and I'm bound to get the sizing wrong.

i wear a 40/40.5 in sportiva's.
Any advice as to what size to punt for?

[Richie Crouch]

41.5-42 I reckon

[rosmat]

I fancy trying a pair of these but no shops around my way stock them.
So I'm internet only and I'm bound to get the sizing wrong.

i wear a 40/40.5 in sportiva's.
Any advice as to what size to punt for?

There is a good review plus advice on sizing from Dave Mac here:
http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.co.uk/2013/05/review-scarpa-instinct-vs.html?spref=tw

Basically he reckons 1 size below your street shoe size for training or 1.5 sizes below for hard redpoints / boulders.

[standard]

cheers both.

[tim palmer]

Anyone with narrow feet using these? (I usually wear evolv/five ten shoes)

Got a free pair of Scarpa's to claim and these seem like the obvious choice...

they are quite wide, very similar in width to the boosters

[turnipturned]

Had them Four months and they are finally fooked (with my track record thats like Monty Panesar scoring a century in a test match) ...wall boot time! Been brillaint and would buy a new pair without a doubt. None of the rubber on the top came off and the build quality is a lot better than any other boot I have had over the last 2-3 years. My advice, get them as tight as you can (plastic bag on your foot style). They do bag out a tiny bit but I found that after 4/5 session wearing them they won't stretch beyond that. They dont really take any time to wear in either maybe 2 times at the wall. VERDICT= SWEET!

[thrashhard]

They are finally on the market in the rest of europe and they are even € 11 more than the boostic which is already overprized as hell.
Whats the difference in building the VS to another scarpa shoe that makes them € 40 more than a vapour? Glueing some rubber on top of the toes can´t be that difficult.

[tomtom]

A bump and my tuppence worth..

Bought a pair of these last week - mainly as I had a problem I had been working for ages that needed a really really good toe hook and these looked the business for that (and they seemed good for other things too).

Well I did the problem without a toehook (typical) but have used these in two sessions on sandstone so far. My normal shoe is a anasazi velcro..

I agree with the previous reviews that at first they feel a bit clunky and stiff - but they are softening and they feel like brand new Anasazi Velcro's at the moment. Heel is uber snug - but quite wide (I like the narrow heel on Dragons that can be placed very accurately). Interesting reading advice about fitting - I went for the smallest I could get on with a placcy bag - and ended up with 41's (I think these are UK7's - which sounds unusual reading the above posts as I'm a street 9 and 71/2 in the anasazi's... when you try them on its reall important to shove your feet as far forward into the toe box as possible - as they are really tight and they dont always do that.. Anyway, quietly impressed so far - rubber seems to be sticking me better to things than the Anasazi's (at the moment) - see how they go. Not cheap though...

[cha1n]

Thanks for the updates.

I eventually went for a (blue) blackwing and Teams combination. The teams were excellent out of the box but I do struggle on long limestone routes with small edges as they are very soft. I can put up with it on short boulder problems though, well I prefer the sensitivity actually when bouldering.

The (blue)blackwings fit superbly, much better than my dragons or Jet 7's ever did! I didn't get on well with them to begin with though (too stiff), but I've persevered and I must say that they are an excellent all-rounder. I use them for mostly everything now and save my teams for roofs that require heel-toe trickery (don't trust that 2mm rubber, so I'm saving them for when necessary!). So my wrecked Jet 7's and Dragons have officially been binned!

I honestly don't think I'd bother with the Instinct VS now... Might have a squint at the new stix when they come out mind!

[nathanie1]

I’ve finally got round to making the switch from my favourite shoe, the instinct laces, to the VS’s. Lengthwise my VS’s fit perfectly, but I have remarkably wide feet and they are pretty damn painful on the side of my feet just below my little toes.

Obviously, the VS’s are synthetic and so I don’t expect them to stretch much, but I was just wondering whether there are any other wide feet folk out there that have braved the breaking in stage with success?

[tomtom]

Mine have stretched about 1/2 size... gone from being "Oh fuck" after 30 seconds to agony taking 15 min...

[Sasquatch]

Yes, they stretch wonderfully to my wide feet

[nathanie1]

cheers guys, that's all I wanted to hear

[JackAus]

Same here. I've got 2 pairs, same size, one is brand new, the other probably over a year old and in need of a resole. I really struggle to put on the new ones,only worn them on rock once so far. Old ones are still tight to put on but now have space inside.

[mrjonathanr]

VS is slightly tighter than laces but only slightly. Gives but more reluctantly than laces as more rubber and no leather though laces have Lorica toes too don't forget, and give a fair bit in the end.

I bet your laces hurt when you first had them too. I would buy same size in both. Actually I have the same size in both. Both excellent  shoes but VS is better of the two.