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[Peak][Cratcliffe][Green Lipped Muscle][7c] (Read 2870 times)

Bonjoy

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[Peak][Cratcliffe][Green Lipped Muscle][7c]
February 21, 2013, 10:04:17 am
On Tuesday I completed this line I spotted a while back. It climbs the rising lip of the roof right of Razor Roof all the way from a sit start. It’s quite a long problem (18 or so hand moves), lovely moves all the way with a beefy crux at the start getting on and off a real nothing sloper. I think it’s a brilliant problem. Dare I say best traverse in the neighbourhood? I think I do dare. Leroy got it on camera so I might have a better FA vid than the usual shit (when he’s back from Spain).

Here’s a pic of him on the still tricky bit after the crux:



And here's a badly spliced shot of the whole roof:


The roof is also the home of four neglected Veale/Stokes problems listed in the older bouldering guides but omitted from later ones. I’ve always thought these looked decent problems which had dropped off the radar more due to run-off and situation under larches (they shed a carpet of fine needles every year) than due to poor climbing. The roof is all clean now and the top cleared back a bit so they should stay good for a while and dry much quicker. The central prob from a sitter using the weird blob is great. Haven’t tried the two on the right yet. Worth bringing a towel to thwack the pine needles away and dam and run-off.

andy_e

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Looks like a great shuffle.

Greg C

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Quote
Dare I say best traverse in the neighbourhood? I think I do dare.
  :lol:

Looks good. Nice to see a few good looking new problems going down since the break in the weather.

r-man

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Nice one. I remember doing those up problems years ago, always seemed a shame this boulder became neglected. Well done for sticking it back on the map!

Bonjoy

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Fiend

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Good molluscing there!

andy_e

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Is that Reeve there on the rest-advice-dishing-out tip? Good little video, I do love a good old heel-over-the-top-of-the-hand manoeuvre.

Bonjoy

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No it's Nathan in pre-haircut mode

SA Chris

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Definitely some grabs for gurn again and overbite files.

Nice bit of luck based scrittle climbing.

 

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