[Scouse D]

Problem just to the left of the Grogan at Burbage North following a vague rib. Standing start in good break, righrt hand into small 2 finger pocket on rib. Use this and some fancy foot shenanigans to make long reach to good holds. Good Climbing etc
First ascent Polish Marek. Hence the name.

[Scouse D]

noone been on this yet? It really is rather good. Bring 3 pads minimum it gets high.

[dave]

Unfortunately scouse fell off before the best bit today so I only got a shit photo, for what its worth:

[Fiend]

So Scouse has repeated it then? Cool, at least someone's been on it.

[Scouse D]

Went back on it today just to show Dave. Feels a bit easier than 7b actually but time will tell I suppose.

[dave]

In the cold light of day I reckon 7a/+/++ is fair. Good climbing, better than it looks.

[cofe]

Certainly looks an easier version of the Grogan.

[slackline]

Certainly looks an easier version of the Grogan.

   Pumpiest 8m route I've ever climbed.

[dave]

Certainly looks an easier version of the Grogan.

You got that right.

[r-man]

Marek has done the sitter.

[Bonjoy]

Nice. How hard is that?

[dave]

When did he do that? I think Scouse did that the other week.

[r-man]

Don't know, but the video was uploaded on March 1st.

[Scouse D]

Just to confirm that I did do the start of the problem up to the break but had no spot so didn't fancy the top out. So well done Marek!
It's very good climbing on the sitter although the holds for the right hand are v close to the crack. Saying that, you would deffo know if you were cheating.
I reckoned 7a+ for sitter into 7a+ for stander

[r-man]

Had a look at this recently. Standup seemed fairly straightforward without the pocket - just stick a left heel on break and make a big reach. also felt a bit nicer stepping off the block to make a couple of moves up to the break, rather than coming in from the left.

Confused by sitter though. Does it start on the rail, or some combo of rail and other holds. Or is it left hand sidepull and right hand undercutting something?

[BAndy]

It's very good climbing on the sitter although the holds for the right hand are v close to the crack. Saying that, you would deffo know if you were cheating.

I started on the low rail and made a big awkward move to a slopey sidepull just left of the thin crack (but not in it). Seem to remember getting a foot on the starting rail and making another big awkward move to the break that the stander starts in.

I definitely needed the little pocket on the stander! I topped it out directly above rather than jibbing off left. It's high and the fallen block is under you but it's easy (when it's dry!).

[r-man]

Weird, we looked but didn't spot anything just left of the crack.

 You mean the low slanting rail on the left or something else?

Didn't top out - all a bit wet and the flake seemed suspect.

[BAndy]

It was a while back so my memory is hazy but i remember it being a low rail midway between the corner and the Grogan crack. The hold near the crack was a very slopey sidepull. I think it was just left of the finger crack ie where the rock started to curve towards the crack. That probably makes no sense. Next time I'm wandering past I'll grab a photo and stick it on here.

Just to confuse things further, there's also an 8A sitter starting in a similar place that goes straight up left of the Mr Sheen pocket. It's mentioned on here somewhere. I think it's called 'In the Flick of Time'.

[slackline]

If only there was a website where people could document these important minutiae with pictures and videos....

PeakBouldering.info : Mr Sheen Sit-Start

[r-man]

Yeah, I added all the variations to pb. These suggest there are three possible sitstarts.

http://peakbouldering.info/areas/1-eastern-grit/crags/7-burbage-north/boulders/85-all-quiet#.VwOUCtR4WrU

Marek had a video at one time but that now seems to be dead.

[dave]

It was a while back so my memory is hazy but i remember it being a low rail midway between the corner and the Grogan crack. The hold near the crack was a very slopey sidepull. I think it was just left of the finger crack ie where the rock started to curve towards the crack. That probably makes no sense. Next time I'm wandering past I'll grab a photo and stick it on here.

Just to confuse things further, there's also an 8A sitter starting in a similar place that goes straight up left of the Mr Sheen pocket. It's mentioned on here somewhere. I think it's called 'In the Flick of Time'.

Basically the straight-up sitter (think it was Travs?) is a logical line lower down, takes the wall without the rib over to the right (lower down the rib is fairly close to the crack, so eliminating it makes sense). Think it's a big move to a lovely slopey pinch, then an edge out left, then break/ledge.

As a standup from the break/ledge it feels totally natural and logical to me to use the small pocket on the rib, as at that point you don't feel like you're encroaching on the crack. I would only really try eliminating the pocket if I was trying to top out Trav's sitter (which if I remember correctly was described as such).

[r-man]

Yeah, that's the line which gets pinch with rh.

And there's also a version that gets pinch with left hand, then rh rib, then break (and finishes up either line).

Is there one which doesn't use the pinch?

--


The pocket just seemed gnarly (there's a sharp pebble in it), and it seemed easier to do it without. wasnt trying to eliminate, just find the easiest sequence.

[El Mocho]

And there's also a version that gets pinch with left hand, then rh rib, then break (and finishes up either line).

Sounds like there are 2 decent lines (both with sitters) and then some dick has done a couple of pointless eliminates in between...

[El Mocho]

I think the reason for doing the In The Flick of Sheen sit thing is it avoids all use of holds by the Grogan crack. I have no beta for any of this though.

[r-man]

But has anyone done a sitter without the left hand rail or is it basically the same sitter position for everything?

[dave]

Same sitter position for everyting

[travs]

Don't want to be pedantic but "flick of time" starts with 2 hands on the rail and goes straight up. No sneaky undercuts or heel and toes out right. I did (can't speak for others) Mr Sheen sit start with left hand on the rail and right hand on an undercut or something and then you swing up and right, away from flick of time.