I thought the dinbren bulge was in doylo's pants
Some Diamond projs - world class. The Big Crunch- very very good. Dinbren bulge - very good. Doylos hanging rock 9a project- slightly shit
Quote from: Doylo on February 11, 2013, 04:05:29 pmSome Diamond projs - world class. The Big Crunch- very very good. Dinbren bulge - very good. Doylos hanging rock 9a project- slightly shitReckon there's scope for more lines on Detritus Wall? I've never been to it but the routes that are already put up sound amazing!Edit: Just seen the topo for the wall on DMM's site. Looks like there is tons of potential there!
Luke O - Detritus Wall has some king lines (little king, prince perhaps?) but to equip them you need to be more adventurous than the mean and not mind being shat on by Cormorants. They'll make amazing DWS's too.
Hopefully whilst dossing in the Cave he'll get around to repeating Gaskin's Pillbox problem
Hubble's got harder moves though, innit.
not sure if it's considered a project at all but if someone were to climb Masters Edge on the left hand side, would this actually count as a new line a la Archangel/Don or just be a wack way of doing ME?
johnny did all the moves on top rope one handed didn't he? eng 7a......
Quote from: GuyVG on February 13, 2013, 10:45:26 amnot sure if it's considered a project at all but if someone were to climb Masters Edge on the left hand side, would this actually count as a new line a la Archangel/Don or just be a wack way of doing ME?P Widdy did it a couple of years back at the same grade, I think?
I seem to recall somewhere in one of the recent interviews with Adam about La Dura Dura that he broke down the sequence into bouldering grades but stated that it was pointless trying to think of it in terms of boulder problems as the difficulty was not in doing them, but in linking them (too lazy to go hunting for the article again)
The first 15 moves, are only about 8 meters of climbing could be 9b/b+ in itself. Big reaches on crimpy holds and underclings that lead into huge span rightwards onto the crimp and dyno from there onto a good hueco. It includes 4 boulderproblems, from bolt to bolt, 4 moves each of them. 7C, 7C, 8A+ and 8A. It is nonsense to grade the section in Font grade, because even if though it is only 15 moves, it climbs like a route. You have to clip, the moves are long, it takes 1 minute and 10 seconds to climb. The moves are quite easy as single moves, put putting it together is a question of power endurance and climbing as efficiently as possible. Everything counts.
The first 10 meters of La Dura Dura is 9b/9b+. Isn't that hard enough?
Obviously the type of short nails routes I was talking about don't appeal to most people who love routes rather than boulder problems, but I wonder why they seem to be even less popular now than they were in the past.