[Paul B]

Sprung isn't any more snapped than it always is

That's just not correct, the last crimp you take before rocking rightwards to finish, broke after the first ascent.

[SA Chris]

he'll like Albatross.

What flavour is it?

[dave]

Has your mate done Prime Time and Albatross at Kyloe Out?  Both fit the grade range and are OK with one pad, plus I heard your mate is a lanky fucker so he'll like Albatross.

He's done prime time sitter but isn't familiar with albatross.

[Stubbs]

There's a roof on the imaginatively named overhanging butress which I think is the last one before you get into the woods (i.e. right hand end of Kyloe Out). Left hand through the roof is 6C, rh is 6B, Albatross 7A+ (it's a sea bird, they only come in one flavour) through the middle. Thought the climbing on all was good.

[SA Chris]

There's nowt in the 7s, but if you fancy some mileage, Raven, just below Bowden has some nice probs, good rock, nice aspect, easy access and is deserted and untrashed compared to Bowden.


http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=855

[rodma]

Sprung isn't any more snapped than it always is

That's just not correct, the last crimp you take before rocking rightwards to finish, broke after the first ascent.

It doesn't affect the grade though. It's the original wack sequence that made it hard. Earl was strong enough to not have to heelhook so did it a harder way

[Fiend]

Raven has gritty rock, probably won't feel in good nick, and has enough distant landings with a good chance of sliding down a hill.

[Pantontino]

On a related note - during a recent visit I was disappointed to note how many broken holds (both on routes and problems) that have appeared at Bowden Doors since the last time I was there. Climbing after it's been raining has got to be forbidden here, the rock is just too soft/vulnerable to breakage.

As for shaftoe - it might be miles away from where your 'mate' is stopping but he could always pop in on the way home, no? I think it is the sort of crag that rewards repeat visits - obviously there is a load of bizarre/chossy nonsense, but there is also a good solid collection of quality problems.

[Fiend]

BTW d-piddy, gimme a shout when you're up, I could pop down if it's in good nick. My two shitty pod pads would probably subtract usefulness of any landings rather than add to it tho 

[dave]

Bobby shaftoe is certainly an option in passing.

Fiend, I'll get him to hit you up. Basically he'll be in effect from 16th for a week.

[Paul B]

It doesn't affect the grade though. It's the original wack sequence that made it hard. Earl was strong enough to not have to heelhook so did it a harder way

...that wasn't the point, it was in reference to the (original post and) general perceptibility of Bowden to breaking/eroding.

On a related note - during a recent visit I was disappointed to note how many broken holds (both on routes and problems) that have appeared at Bowden Doors since the last time I was there. Climbing after it's been raining has got to be forbidden here, the rock is just too soft/vulnerable to breakage.

Ditto, but I do wonder if someone a generation before me might have exactly the same thought, a generation before me. Unfortunately the sandstone simply isn't bulletproof.

[Bonjoy]

Another vote for Serverus Snape at Back Bowden.

Paranoia 7a+ or 7c from sitting looks amazing. Might be ok with one pad. This is at Hangman's Rock which is very near Hepburn but not in the bouldering guide. At 2mins on this vid:  

[sjw]

Paranoia 7a+ or 7c from sitting looks amazing. Might be ok with one pad. This is at Hangman's Rock which is very near Hepburn but not in the bouldering guide.[/url] 

This boulder is proper good, but the landing slopes away very steeply so not really a non-spotter-one-padder.

[dave]

Another vote for Serverus Snape at Back Bowden.

Great problem alright, .....but he's still done it.

[rodma]

It doesn't affect the grade though. It's the original wack sequence that made it hard. Earl was strong enough to not have to heelhook so did it a harder way

...that wasn't the point, it was in reference to the (original post and) general perceptibility of Bowden to breaking/eroding.

On a related note - during a recent visit I was disappointed to note how many broken holds (both on routes and problems) that have appeared at Bowden Doors since the last time I was there. Climbing after it's been raining has got to be forbidden here, the rock is just too soft/vulnerable to breakage.

Ditto, but I do wonder if someone a generation before me might have exactly the same thought, a generation before me. Unfortunately the sandstone simply isn't bulletproof.

The only solid bit of rock at bowden is the cave. Only the aforementioned hold on sprung and the roof jug on v crimps (about to fall off) have changed at all due to traffic. I can't think of a single problem at the rest of the crag that hasn't changed (dramatically) over the last 15years.

I wish people wouldn't climb there after the rain too. Maybe if we regrade everything as 7a or below it will prevent people feeling like they have to pull on.

Another vote for your mate to go to shaftoe. Just steer clear if it's windy cos it can get unbearably cold and there is less shelter from the wind in the little alleyways than you might imagine.

[SA Chris]

And I would have thought given t recent weather wellies or even waders would be a good idea

[Fiend]

How did your jailbird do, Dave?? Did he get time off for good behaviour??

[dave]

He got a session doing a kyloe-in circuit, and a morning at Bowden putting sprung and v-crimps to bed in short order. Not bad considering he was supervising a 3yr old at the time as part of his parole conditions.