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SLipper choices (Read 7921 times)

thrashhard

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#25 Re: SLipper choices
February 06, 2013, 08:18:25 am
if i´m going to pay € 135 for a pair of shoes which is the price of the boostic (and nearly every other shoe nowadays)
i wouldn´t buy something that ugly.
i mean a spider web?
i´m not a 7 year old that i wan´t a spider web on the velcro of my shoe.
i know it´s not really important but i wonder who has such "special" ideas.

ghisino

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#26 Re: SLipper choices
February 10, 2013, 01:21:35 am
I tried on the Futuras and I'd imagine that they would smear very well.

I'm just not sold on their edging capability, reckon they'll be pants for that. I'd give them a whirl if it wasn't for the money.

i have the futuras. have had the speedsters.
the futura is narrower, more supportive and a much better allrounder, but they do have a similar character.

the best word for the edging capabilities of both shoes is "weird".

first of all whenever i want to "edge" anything small in futuras, i'll frontpoint it. The sides of the shoe are for "smedging" only.

second, it really has an odd feeling... as if you were smearing the foothold with that tiny part of the sole that wraps around the toe

third, despite feeling a lot less powerful than a real edging shoe like, say, a blanco, it feels more tolerant. you can be a bit less precise or move your heel around a bit more than usual. In this regards lasportiva's advertising on the "noedge" concept has an element of truth...
...good shoes for sloppy footwork :clown:


where does this all work well, edgingwise?
On slabby to slightly overhanging angles, with a strong foot inside it.

were does it fail?
on steeper ground when you want to toe-in a small incut feature. The round profile of the sole makes it hard to "bite" into the foothold, any traditional edged downturned shoe (ie solution) will do a lot better.
In this compartment the futura is less crap than the speedster, but still quite crap.


overall:
good shoes for font, tufa limestone, delicate slabs, roof weirdness, onsights and flashes.
not good for anything that is steep and crimpy at the same time, small pockets, redpoints that benefit from a supportive/powerful shoe.


 

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