[gardinrm]

Hey,
I've been to Wimberry a lot and love the crag, but overlooked the downhill 7a on the Shell shot boulder. It is sometimes called "flakes of uncertainty". It seems i'm not the only one, as its not well documented and didn't seem to warrant much particular attention.  What a shame, i think it's an excellent problem with powerful, crimpy and technical climbing. Just me thing.
That being said, i have worked out beta to get me pretty high but can't work out how to finish it off, and gain the good shot hole just before the top. I have tried to statically work my feet up but with the undercuts being above my head, it seems super powerful (esp. for 7a). Does anyone have any help here? Just so you know, i am very stable before trying to climb on, with left hand in the lowest undercut as a gaston-thing and right hand on the top undercut, which is very positive. Feet are matched on the obvious hold (from which the problem begins) and i can easily move either foot. The problem is that it is very hard work stepping up. I have managed to step left up to a smear above and step up, then get right on a high foothold, but this was balancy and powerful and led to what felt like an impossibly powerful step up on right foot. Is it simply that you do the last move dynamically, or is there some clever beta? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Rob

[Bonjoy]

Seem to remember when we tried this, it had signs of a breakage. Seemed like the scar was just where you’d want a foothold to do the top bit. It still seemed doable but the snappiness was a bit off putting. Think I was with cofe, he might remember more.

[tomtom]

Seem to remember when we tried this, it had signs of a breakage. Seemed like the scar was just where you’d want a foothold to do the top bit. It still seemed doable but the snappiness was a bit off putting. Think I was with cofe, he might remember more.

I've always thought this was a great looking problem, then the creaks put me off!

[cofe]

Seem to remember when we tried this, it had signs of a breakage. Seemed like the scar was just where you’d want a foothold to do the top bit. It still seemed doable but the snappiness was a bit off putting. Think I was with cofe, he might remember more.

That's what I remember. Too snappy to be of interest really; scope for nasty falls and punching yourself in the face when the holds go. Shame.

[a dense loner]

I did this a few times years ago and every time something snapped off. I was a bit surprised when it went in the guide at 7a cos I always thought it a bit harder and quite terrifying really. I didn't reply with a sequence since I can't remember and have no idea of the holds that would be left

[gardinrm]

Yeah, i saw the scar and it does seem to be in the perfect place for the top out. But its been there as long as i can remember. I don't feel any creaking in the flakes, but that could be because i don't weigh very much or that they have now snapped enough to be secure. Just wanted to know if the final move was a dyno really? The moves into that position are so nice though, so would be keen to see it off.

[Gritrat]

Sounds like there is a consensus re: this problem!  It feels nails for 7A and those flakes are well creaky.  I was there when a mate pulled off a lower flake last year but don't reckon it affects the sequence.

I think your beta is right though; swap your left gaston for an undercut and lean back to get height with the smears, then the pocket should be in reach.  Or you'll pull the flakes off, explode backwards and break your spine.

Either way, good luck.