Only been to Ysgo once about 2 days after I started climbing, finally heading back this Saturday. Got a good idea of the classics to get on, I get the vibe most of the stuff is slopey on rough holds but are there any crimpy problems worth seeking out 6C-7A+?Nothing like playing to your strengths to avoid an ego bashing...
Here's a few:Simon's Arete (right of Ysgo Flange) 7Aish. Fingery 7Bish sds too.http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=350Rhino Horn is actually very cool once you've sussed the sequence. 7Ahttp://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=573Dringo Gaeaf is also good, and surprisingly independant. 6C standing with left on spike/harder lower start is possiblehttp://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=482Simple things/Winter things - 6C/7A techy wall climbinghttp://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=539http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=545VG Central sds 7A+ - this is excellent and surprisingly tough.http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=95http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=432Here Comes the Sun sds 7Ahttp://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=441Brian Spray 7Aish slightly contrived, in that it has a specified start, but some (i.e two) great moves. (left hand: black sidepull, right hand: flat edge at same height, i.e. head height)
Very jealous Luke - we had a great weekend over there this time last year.I can only think of Jawbreaker and Perrin's Crack SDS that I did that fit the bill, but I'm assuming Popcorn Party and Incredible Shaking Man SDS would also do you.
Good psyche!TISM sds is very cool but those lacking long arms tend to have a real battle on it - indeed 7B has been suggested.Personally I find the neighbouring Perrin's Crack sds to be harder.
Tomtom, once you get into Ysgo, get stuff padded and get decent cold conditions, it feels ok. Some things are even soft... But then again others ain't, so I guess that's just grade spread for you. Andy and I were discussing Ysgo the other day on fb, we should get a trip down there sorted before it warms up.
On both my Ysgo visits I've been spanked. Like font - it seems when I go there I have to drop the grade I'd aim for by a couple of spots... it all felt haaaarrrrdd...
Just out of interest - what problems gave you trouble? I only ask because I'm always fishing for guidebook feedback.
I've been to porth ysgo a few times. I got so spanked last time I had an epic paddy and tore the pages out of my guidebook.I've kept them though, so when I calm down in a few years I might go back.
Quote from: BenF on January 09, 2014, 03:36:18 pmTomtom, once you get into Ysgo, get stuff padded and get decent cold conditions, it feels ok. Some things are even soft... But then again others ain't, so I guess that's just grade spread for you. Andy and I were discussing Ysgo the other day on fb, we should get a trip down there sorted before it warms up.Yup - we were discussing whether it was Day trippable from our way.. (probably just)... I'd be up for it anyway..TT
Quote from: Pantontino on January 09, 2014, 03:43:26 pmJust out of interest - what problems gave you trouble? I only ask because I'm always fishing for guidebook feedback.Jawbreaker - I'm miles away from that (maybe not my style - ie its dynamic!)Higginson Scar - took me ages to do.. (and I think I lanked it somehow!) Popcorn Party - its a bit of a climbing wall style of problem, but just wore me out.. classic case of work out the sequence then trashed... Love the rock though..I don't think the gradings that wack - its more like many places it takes a while to get dialed in (calibrated if you like) to the different rock type. I think I have a weakness in that it takes me a while to adjust.. Interesting to hear the connies are pretty fickle.. its always felt like me rather than grease is the issue.. Many of the problems I've tried/done felt like they were based more on power than knack - thats a sweeping generalisation and probably heavily biased by the problems tried - but thats how it felt to me.. (we mostly tried the popular/starred problems from boulder britain and the NW Guide). BUT.. when we went last year others in the party (notably James) had his best day ever (several 7's - flashed a couple) and I seemed to be the only person having real problems getting to grips with things... Sorry if thats a long rambling answer!
Yup - we were discussing whether it was Day trippable from our way.. (probably just)... I'd be up for it anyway..
Higginson Scar - took me ages to do.. (and I think I lanked it somehow!)
I grubes and I seemed to be the only people having real problems getting to grips with things...
Popcorn Party - this is hard and requires some quite specific hold use. I am considering putting in as 7A+, although it did occur to me that people often try it late in the day when they are tired?
Quote from: Pantontino on January 09, 2014, 04:08:30 pmPopcorn Party - this is hard and requires some quite specific hold use. I am considering putting in as 7A+, although it did occur to me that people often try it late in the day when they are tired?The starting positions probably require more definition in the guide.. I know its dependant on the pebble situation, but I've seen vids of folk claiming the 7A tick not including the sit / lying start with the base slots... If its banked up with pebbles the easier higher start probably seems like the full sit.. 7A from the sitting/crouching and 7A+ for the full monty?
Be interesting to see what state it is in after all these big storms.
and is roughly what I put in the 2004 guide, albeit with harsher grades
Quote from: Lund on January 09, 2014, 03:55:30 pmI've been to porth ysgo a few times. I got so spanked last time I had an epic paddy and tore the pages out of my guidebook.I've kept them though, so when I calm down in a few years I might go back.Dare I ask what the specific source of your paddy was? (Just for research purposes of course.)
Quote from: tomtom on January 09, 2014, 03:52:41 pmQuote from: Pantontino on January 09, 2014, 03:43:26 pmJust out of interest - what problems gave you trouble? I only ask because I'm always fishing for guidebook feedback.Jawbreaker - I'm miles away from that (maybe not my style - ie its dynamic!)Higginson Scar - took me ages to do.. (and I think I lanked it somehow!) Popcorn Party - its a bit of a climbing wall style of problem, but just wore me out.. classic case of work out the sequence then trashed... Love the rock though..I don't think the gradings that wack - its more like many places it takes a while to get dialed in (calibrated if you like) to the different rock type. I think I have a weakness in that it takes me a while to adjust.. Interesting to hear the connies are pretty fickle.. its always felt like me rather than grease is the issue.. Many of the problems I've tried/done felt like they were based more on power than knack - thats a sweeping generalisation and probably heavily biased by the problems tried - but thats how it felt to me.. (we mostly tried the popular/starred problems from boulder britain and the NW Guide). BUT.. when we went last year others in the party (notably James) had his best day ever (several 7's - flashed a couple) and I seemed to be the only person having real problems getting to grips with things... Sorry if thats a long rambling answer!Jawbreaker is obviously reachy and powerful, but there is also quite a subtle knack to it. I've seen some strong young lads from the wall flummoxed by it. This is going in the guide as 6C+.Higginson Scar - there is a bit of a knack to the crux. I go into a slight bridge across to a smear to bring my right hand up to the rubbish pinch, then carefully move my left foot onto the starting handhold and use a small side pull out left to get my centre of gravity in the right place before moving up to the good flatty ledge. This is going in the guide as 6B+.Popcorn Party - this is hard and requires some quite specific hold use. I am considering putting in as 7A+, although it did occur to me that people often try it late in the day when they are tired?When I said the conditions are fickle - all I meant really is that one of the great things about the Ysgo area venues is that you arrive there mid winter to find sun soaked rock and all is suddenly right with the world, when in actual fact if you are working a line at your limit those days (which are very common) are not usually the best for climbing hard.