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Porth Ysgo Beta Thread (Read 49128 times)

Doylo

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#75 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 09, 2014, 08:15:12 pm
Kaboosh! Defo one of the photos that got me keen for NWB.

Falling Down

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#76 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 09, 2014, 08:21:27 pm
That's the ticket.

richieb

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#77 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 09, 2014, 08:25:21 pm
Nice one. I remember now it also got me psyched for a pair of miuras.

SA Chris

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#78 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 09, 2014, 08:25:38 pm
If you are looking for more feedback simon  I only went once and did loads of stuff in the "v3/v4" range in and around the ISM area and the only one that I really had to work hard on was Jones' Eliminate. Took me loads of tries to get it, almost to a point of giving in.

tomtom

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#79 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 09, 2014, 08:36:20 pm
I went over to Ysgo in November for a few of the classics. Jawbreaker SDS is brilliant, although if shorties have a tough time on ISM SDS I imagine they may well find themselves shortchanged on Jawbreaker SDS as well. I'm 6ft and Jawbreaker sit felt about 7B. although a significantly harder proposition than ISM SDS.

If anyone's interested I got some horribly over exposed footage:



Great vid Chris..

It made me feel, weak, inadequate and massively inspired all in one :)

fatneck

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#80 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 10, 2014, 11:28:27 am
My 2p worth on grades...

Agree with Mr Popp that the right hand start to Ysgo Flange is easier than the direct, unless you french start ;)

Higg Scar always felt 6b to me but haven't done it for ages! The RH version has to be going up? I've only ever seen John M do it and he's a beast. Richie's had about four sessions on it and can't do it and he's not exactly weak...

Jawbreaker, 6c+ sounds about right to me...

Popcorn Party - fecking nails...

Good to hear Brian Spray going up to 7a, proper nemesis of mine that...

And as an aside, this...

Quote from: Falling Down
I used to go down to Ysgo beach when I was kid all the time with my family, we used to call it "The Lead Mines".  When I started climbing in the early 90's I wandered down there having a vague memory of blocks and was amazed to find this incredible boulder field and climbed some of the easy obvious  lines.

Is almost exactly my experience of "finding" the place albeit a few years later!

Nice one :)

Doylo

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#81 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 10, 2014, 11:46:14 am
Think Higg right is a hard 7a. Richie can't perform out the Cave  :jab:

Monolith

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#82 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 10, 2014, 11:59:43 am
and Pex....

Sorry but Richie's had four sessions on Higg Scar RH? I must see this version. Doesn't involve a one arm deadhang does it Ricky?  ;)

BenF

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#83 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 10, 2014, 12:26:25 pm

Higg Scar always felt 6b to me but haven't done it for ages! The RH version has to be going up? I've only ever seen John M do it and he's a beast. Richie's had about four sessions on it and can't do it and he's not exactly weak...

Much as I loathe to give Rich any credit for anything, I thought he did it with me a few years ago on one of those fatneck birthday weekenders.  The one when it snowed on the Saturday. Actually, now I think of about it, maybe it was Holger that did it with me. It was the same day as stuff like The Uncle got put up. Was Rich there? Or did he bail to the cave?

However, back on track... I would probably give the rh version 7a+ on all but the coldest of days. 

JohnM

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#84 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 10, 2014, 12:56:59 pm
Rich bailed to the cave that day.  It must be harder for the tall transporting their gangly limbs though that small space!  Feels standard V6/7A to me.  Such a great problem but a shame that block is in the way.  I would love to be able to swing around on those lovely slopers a bit more!

Pantontino

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#85 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 10, 2014, 01:15:13 pm
I'm pretty sure the block adjacent to Higg Scar RH has shifted over the years. I don't remember it being that close back in the 90s. If you look behind the block there is a noticeable slump in the hillside which could have pushed the block down a bit.

I vote 7A+ and not an easy one either. That sloper heats up like a frying pan in the sun!

Pantontino

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#86 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 10, 2014, 01:38:36 pm
The pre-97/98 winter history of Ysgo is interesting. It seems that lots of people (including Fatneck and Falling Down) visited the place.

Jim Perrin said he climbed there quite a bit in the 70s. In one of his columns for Climber he described climbing "that finger crack in the Stone monkey advert", or words to that effect. I know it's not a finger crack (the crack is blind and you climb the holds to the right of it) but it is an obvious stand up line so I don't doubt that he did it and other similar sub 6A lines.

Al Hughes and Paul Harrison also had made visits. Must have been quite gripping without bouldering pads.

It was the Big G, George Smith who told me about the place. He said "it's like a Henry moore sculpture park on a beach." I went looking but the first couple of times failed to find it, such was the vagueness of the description. One time I went to the Mynydd y Graig crag above Rhiw and did a couple of problems, and another time we ended up discovering the bouldering cave at Porthor (Whistling sands).

On the third attempt we found it and I'll never forget walking into that boulder field eyes popping out of my head and realising that we had struck gold. Didn't climb anywhere else for about two months!

Around this time we also checked out Trwyn Talfarach but dismissed it, so blinded by the quality of Ysgo were we.

Pantontino

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#87 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 10, 2014, 01:45:28 pm
Oh, and good skills Doylo for finding and posting that Stone Monkey advert - you can see the stuck axle at the base of the Perrin's Crack sds. It was Mick Lovatt who eventually moved this - he deserves all our thanks for such sterling crag maintenance work!

If you ever meet Mick down there (and he does hang out there quite a lot as he has a house in Criccieth) ask him to show you his Brian Spray sequence, it's awesome!

BenF

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#88 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 10, 2014, 03:52:24 pm
Rich bailed to the cave that day.  It must be harder for the tall transporting their gangly limbs though that small space!  Feels standard V6/7A to me.  Such a great problem but a shame that block is in the way.  I would love to be able to swing around on those lovely slopers a bit more!

Oh yeah, now I remember you lot bailed and missed one of the best Ysgo days ever. I'm with you re: swinging on the slopers. Would be amazing if you had all the room to move.

JohnM

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#89 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 10, 2014, 03:57:21 pm
Actually you missed one of the best cave days ever. 

Pantontino

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#90 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 10, 2014, 03:58:48 pm
If you are looking for more feedback simon  I only went once and did loads of stuff in the "v3/v4" range in and around the ISM area and the only one that I really had to work hard on was Jones' Eliminate. Took me loads of tries to get it, almost to a point of giving in.

JE does flummox a lot of people, at least at first. It's all about the feet: High left sidepull (rubbish), lower right sidepull; then a surprisingly hard step off the deck onto a left smear (requires quite a bit of tension to hold the shape) then right hooking on a little ear. Slap or, if feeling cocky, static to good hold. I've got this down as 6A+.

SA Chris

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#91 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 10, 2014, 04:26:00 pm
I believe that's what we did eventually (I had Miles P along as my pet local, and he took a few goes), but I think we both used a crucial tiny nubbin for right foot. Can't recall if it was dynamic or static, proably the former for me, the latter for him.

Pantontino

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#92 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 10, 2014, 04:26:25 pm
Here's Mick Lovatt astounding Chummer and Si jones with his radical method on Brian Spray:


Pantontino

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#93 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 10, 2014, 04:29:03 pm
I believe that's what we did eventually (I had Miles P along as my pet local, and he took a few goes), but I think we both used a crucial tiny nubbin for right foot. Can't recall if it was dynamic or static, proably the former for me, the latter for him.

That'll be the little ear that I mentioned.

Miles is so strong he could probably lift that boulder above his head.

SA Chris

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#94 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 10, 2014, 04:44:45 pm
Sorry, meant standing on right foot, rather than hooking.

tomtom

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#95 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 10, 2014, 07:30:22 pm
Brain spray... always looked 'do-able' but always seemed so far... I suspect (based on Pantonio's advice) that its probably a lot easier in good connies!

RE Hig Scar RH bloc - when we were last there chap bouldering around said it had moved quite a bit...

Richie Crouch

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#96 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 10, 2014, 09:10:33 pm
I remember that day well John. Woke up hungover! It was overcast drizzle. drove through snowy hills to the cave. Did some pull-ups then got t the last move on In hell and powered out, then knelt down and dry wretched for a good half a minute, thankfully keeping the previous nights booze and fish & chips down!

Some crazy grades being bandied about.

I like to think I can manage v6 on most rock and resin formats so suggest the following based on ~6-7 ysgo trips:

Ysgo flange, 6b left (proper pull on)/6a right(well easier)
Higginson scar, 6b
Jawbreaker, 6b+
Fast cars, 6c
mutant child, 6c
Brian spray, 6c
Really shit toys ss, 6c+
Foam party, 7a (ok with the beta)
popcorn party slot start, 7a+ for sure
incredible sitter, 7a+
Joystick ss, 7a+/7b (easier than jones' ss)
VG central ss, 7b (pyar desperate)
Truth ss, 7b
mutant child ss, 7b
Jones' eliminate ss, 7b (quite stout this one)
Higginson scar rh, 7c (more sessions than any of the 80+ 7c's I have done in the last 5 years bar Rockatrocity... May need conditions?!)

Luke Owens

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#97 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 11, 2014, 10:45:59 pm
Went today, it was absolutely boiling there , couldn't believe it! Did:

Ysgo Flange - Direct start is better, 6B?
Truth - 5+
Higginson Scar - In the baking it sun felt nails, Still think 6B/+ is right though.
Incredible Shaking Man - Does the stand start from the massive ledge usually? I think the boulders have shifted, we had to do the move of the sit start up to it off the big left side pull. Felt 6B+!
Perrins Crack - Very easy 5+?
Here Comes the Sun - 6A+ - This was good for the soul to say the least! Highball, scary and awesome!
Closer - 6A+/B - A great, great problem, awesome campus moves!
The Ysgo Crack - I can't comment on this, I raped it's classic status by not actually climbing it as a crack! I can't jam! Crimped my way up it...

The holds were on fire on Fast Cars, came really close to Jawbreaker though, latched the big move about 4 times and couldn't bump the left hand over to make room for the heel. In good conditions i'm guessing this is probably 6C/+. Impending tide added to the pressure! Skin was screaming and could barely pull on, on Popcorn Party, starting down that end of the beach first next time!

The recent storms have affected a few things; A block is lodged under Popcorn Party making the lie down start a bit awkward but still do-able. The Jawbreaker pit has changed dramaticly. You can actually sit start on the holds of the stand start now and the sit start round the corner is covered in big boulders!


11th January??

Pantontino

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#98 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 13, 2014, 12:18:19 pm
We went over to Clwt y Fiaren first and I managed to bag a new 7A:



http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=689

Then we went over to the School for Gifted block (just beyond Made in Heaven) and Owen climbed an excellent new 7A+ extension to School for Gifted:



There's a film of it here:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=690

Saw a few people walking out later on but missed you Luke. Sounds like a bit of ground works is needed after the storms. The landing below School for Gifted has got better. I spent an hour and half building a patio under this last summer to negate a back breaking block, but the storm has just swept everything out of the way, including the annoying block.

Doylo

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#99 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 13, 2014, 12:26:22 pm
Now you've worked out how to upload to Vimeo can we see Pete's 8a?

 

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