I'm not really interested in repeaters because I've read that they are a power endurance exercise and I'm not overly concerned about that whilst we're in bouldering season and once I get back to climbing routes in the spring, I'm hoping to keep the max hangs going to slowly build up my finger strength.
Quote from: cha1n on January 21, 2013, 09:11:30 pmI'm not really interested in repeaters because I've read that they are a power endurance exercise and I'm not overly concerned about that whilst we're in bouldering season and once I get back to climbing routes in the spring, I'm hoping to keep the max hangs going to slowly build up my finger strength.Is that strictly correct? I'm a little puzzled by this honestly, I keep seeing contradictory references. I thought that max hangs (few reps, high intensity) would equate to neurological recruitment whereas repeaters (more reps) would have more of a hypertrophy effect?
Up to a point. You generally (as far as i understand it) have to stick at max hangs for more than six weeks, and probably more like 3 months of carefully structured progression to get genuine strength gains. Up to 3 or 4 weeks, it's all recruitment. PE gains can be made slightly more quickly. Again, I am absolutely no authority but I also would have thought that it is worth having a specific project in mind for max hangs to be able to tailor them to a specific hold type / weakness.
I know it extremely difficult to believe, but less is more in this case.
And here's the opposite approach, I posted link in another thread, partly because I'm intrigued, partly because I wonder what other climbers think (apart from Krank who introduced me to this) ... It bears a bit of sifting through, but in essence, it's about strength training through sustained underload, and I believe the gymnastics coaches have a track-record of some success here.https://www.gymnasticbodies.com/forum/topic/3323-steady-state-training-cycle/
Quote from: mrjonathanr on January 22, 2013, 10:10:56 pmAnd here's the opposite approach, I posted link in another thread, partly because I'm intrigued, partly because I wonder what other climbers think (apart from Krank who introduced me to this) ... It bears a bit of sifting through, but in essence, it's about strength training through sustained underload, and I believe the gymnastics coaches have a track-record of some success here.https://www.gymnasticbodies.com/forum/topic/3323-steady-state-training-cycle/I think this is actually not that far from what Lopez is recommending. She says you should test to what weight and hold size you can hang for 13seconds, then then workout is to perform 3-5 hangs at that level for 10 seconds. As this becomes easier, you increase the weight or decrease the hold size, but maintaining the no failure zone.
I take the gymnast coaches to be saying something slightly different - build a solid base. Increase the volume of the work you do at a bit below your max.In both cases you are operating close (ish) to your max, but in one case the volume is small and you are looking to increase the intensity. In the other you are looking to increase the volume at a given level of intensity for the individual routine.I remember reading a link on here I think a few years ago to training for one arm pullups. One piece of advice, in line with the gymnast coaches perhaps, was 'embrace the plateau'. I read it as advice about conditioning in the first instance; preparing yourself to move on to the next stage.
I've been bouldering over 3 years, have done a handful of 7B's (all in a single session) flashed quite a few 7A's and 7A+'s and I can only just hang on for 10 seconds on the big edges on the BM 2000. Would you say it's worth trying to meet Eva's minimum requirements before proceeding any more with fingerboarding? I've only had two sessions afterall.
Nope and I had to keep a foot on the wall infront on my first session, but second session I could take the foot off for half crimps and 3 finger open.
Haha, I'm starting to feel like I'm unusual now... Both arms, I tried hanging from 1 arm with 35Kg attached to sling through a pulley and my foot in the other end of the sling and couldn't do it (I had a home made board with only one small edge) so bought a BM 2000 and could only just hang with two hands so will stick to two hands for now!
No it was the big edges.I was talking to a mate about it today whilst we were bouldering at TCA. Most of my mates fingerboard and have done for years but I generally climb a little bit harder than them. Not sure what it is, I class myself as having decent technique and put lots of weight through my feet, maybe that's it.Thing is, when you get on a steep wall with nothing but small edges there's no hiding from the fact that you need strong fingers, so I've decided to work on that weakness. As I said before, do you reckon I should do the 35 second hang thing before trying to do strength work specifically?