[shark]

shark , have you watched the videos on pb.info, you may be able to gain something that would make the drop down lass sapping?  nobody milks the kneebar too much

http://peakbouldering.info/problems/1731

Yes several times. There are two others on the web, one with Ethan Walker and the other Dave Bond.

Having scrutinised all their sequences my conclusions are: 1. They are all beasts 2. They aren't using five ten kneepads

[i_a_coops]

Link to angry German industrial techno please 

Guaranteed to improve performance on the fingerboard/campus board by at least 20% instantaneously. Beat that, Eva Lopex weighted deadhangs

[SA Chris]

STG - get climbing again
MTG - get down to 13 st (from 14st 1 ish on NYD)
LTG - redpoint something plus several other projects

M -
T - cabin fever, but heavy snow, so got headtorch out and boots on and went for a long walk on the coast. Was going to try get some photos, but found nothing inspiring. Great to be out though, amazing night.
W - woody session at mate's wall. Only an hour and freezing cold, but didn't feel too shockingly bad even though woody was mostly too hard for me.
T -
F -
S - Long walk in snowy woods and hills with K in back carrier, hunting gruffalo. Great to be out.
S - Morning swimming with K, had him on my back for a bit so got a couple of lengths in before he got bored. Afternoon out on bike for hour and a half on back roads and some farm tracks which were hard work with half a foot of snow on them

Monday am weigh in - 13 st 11 1/2, down a pound from last week.

[Sasquatch]

Very odd week. 
Monday had a good FB-MAW session, and worked on guidebook. 
Tuesday did a longer run/strength workout.  Ran a total of 6miles and did some type of strength exercise every 1/2 mile. 
Wednesday did another incredible Yoga session followed by an evening FB session. 
Thursday felt worked from Yoga, but managed to get another long run in 6mi...
Friday bouldered in AM, and after work.  Very odd session.  Both times took a long time to get warmed up, and never really got into my stride, but climbed fairly well, did 6 7B or harder problems at the wall OS. 
Saturday did a nice 6-mile skate ski with my wife.  Definitely feeling worked and like I need a day off....
Sunday did another FB-Max Hang session.  Still seeing improvement every session.  Not 100% sure about how it's translating to real climbing as I've been pretty active on other stuff (yoga, running, skiing) so I'm always a bit tired when I get to the wall. 

Overall last week was a pretty heavy week, and I was definitely a bit overworked by the end of it.  I also lost abouit 2-3 lbs over the week whcih is too fast....

This week is set to be quite a bit lighter with just a couple of short workouts and then heading to Bishop.