I'm wondering what would be the best training to use over the next 5 weeks. I've recently been bouldering more than anything else and have seen the benefits of being stronger than ever before. I try to keep my hand in on routes - generally get on a rope once a week and usually do double laps of easyish routes (always get injured doing hard routes indoors). So I have an OK base to start from. Probably will manage 3-4 sessions a week.In El Chorro the routes look pretty long. Should I be focusing on:'Stamina': long circuits (60 moves?) / route 4x4s - necessarily think I'll be starting this at a fairly low level in the early-mid F6s.'Power endurance': shorter, harder circuits, boulder 4x4sBit of both? If both, separate sessions or same session including both types?Reading the Binney stuff gives me the impression that I can adapt in 1-2 months - which is the time I've got...Thanks.
Personally I think that whilst these insights into adaptation are no doubt true, all but the very elite will benefit from just getting on with doing lots of climbing at varied intensities, in any order.
Quote from: mrjonathanr on February 14, 2013, 09:05:27 pmPersonally I think that whilst these insights into adaptation are no doubt true, all but the very elite will benefit from just getting on with doing lots of climbing at varied intensities, in any order.I'm not sure I agree, especially if you go to the next level down i.e. session structure where it would become apparent that doing high volume and low intensity followed by low volume, high intensity impacted the latter.In general I think a LOT of people (myself included at times) talk and post about training rather than actually training (not just bouldering 'a bit').
The other thing I am terrible at is recovering on holds is this a PE issue or hand/finger strength?
Time yourself. Keep one foot on something (chair etc etc). Go up and down your campus board on the large rungs, hand over hand, for 3 mins. Matching on the start and the top (probably the 4th rung). Have 3 mins rest. Do this 4 times. As soon as you can complete all 4 reps, lower the rest time in 15 second increments until you can complete all 4 reps with only 2mins rest between. Or, move onto the small rungs with the same timings and as before start dropping the rest timings once you can complete the 4th rep.Do twice per week for maximum of 5 weeks. Reap the rewards. Repeat. Or sack it off because it's painful drudgery.You don't need to know anything more complicated than that for gaining enough PE to do routes up to 8a+, in my experience of being weak as piss at anything requiring PE - seriously, I get pumped tying my shoe laces. You might want to work a bit of strength to get yourself to doing font 7bish in a sesh for cruxy routes.
Oh my lord!! Did my first session last night thought that this was going to be easy and when I statred it felt piss, but then the pump started, R1 managed 2.10 min R2 1.40 R3 1.35 and R4 1.20 so pumped Such a simple exercise but so effective at generating a pure forearm pump and using the large rungs you can really push into the burn.
When doing 4 x 4 bouldering how long should the problems be ( how many hand moves ) or whats the shortest you can get away with and still be effective.
The shortest you can get away with is more about the length of the problems on my board, rather than hoping to develop the stamina for overhanging 60 metre routes by doing 2 move problems.The straight up problems are 4 hand moves to the finishing hold 5 to match it.
40to50 times up your board! (this isn't realistically possible unless you have the determination of a Jazz musician on a 2 hour improvised flute solo)