[shurt]

Any beta on this would be ace.
There are really bad footholds and really bad crimps. Are you just simply laying one on for the top off of 4 crap points of contact?!
Seems very stiff for V6 (DaveH) or even fnt 7a+ (in Boulder Britain).

[r-man]

No idea, but saw this photo on flickr, might help?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/21412807@N03/2094025133/#sizes/l/in/photostream/

[andy_e]

There's a video of this on Gone West. Can't remember how it's done though! Looks amazing.

[andyd]

I've tried this a lot too, manly on warm summer evenings, to no avail. It seems much harder than 7a+, even with a dartmoor crystal pulling apprenticeship. Jason, in the photo,is a crispy master. I think your beta is right. Using the crappy intermediates and high crappy feet, go for the top and don't fluff the move! I'm game for a go when I'm home in February if you haven't done it by then.

There's a video of this on Gone West. Can't remember how it's done though! Looks amazing.

Maybe it's worth asking Cad if he'll put gone west on Vimeo. I haven't seen it in a shop in a while. I'm pretty sure he's still got a box of DVDs without the sleeves if you wanted to offer him a beer or two. PM me if you need his email address.

[shurt]

That looks right up my street, ive been getting down to Dartmoor quite a bit lately. I'll drop him a line.

I got.as far as the guy in the photo but it gets very hard very suddenly. Back to the fingerboard I think.

[Kingy]

This is a hard problem for sure. I think I cranked on a crystal and laid one on for the top but can't remember much more than that sorry! Your footholds aren't very helpful either. It does eventually go down if you persist, good luck!

[Duncan campbell]

In case anyone ever wants the beta for this again - a friend and I did it today.

In the pic above get your left as he has, come in to the white crystal (slopey) by his face with your right then go again to the next white bit. I used a heel where he has a toe as I'm weak. My tall friend kept his feet low to come into slopey crystal then used a toe as per pic.

Crimp both with all your might, bring your left foot up a bit and then get your right toe in the break and rock your weight over and get the top with your right. It's all good so anywhere will do.

Great problem and felt trickier than 7A if I'm honest.

[BrutusTheBear]

Right heel in the break makes it easier but is that cheating? 
Original way slaps to the top with feet on rubbish things... this is the method demonstrated in Gone West.

[Duncan campbell]

I put a toe in the break so I wouldn't know  TBH it still felt tricky for 7A the way we did it and it would be even harder (and a worse problem imo) eliminating the break for feet having used it for your hand!

Also isn't Caedmon really tall? Plus everyone knows that slapping is an ill-advised movement for on Dartmoor granite!

[adamb]

Thought this was a quality problem with the beta Dunc describes (albeit I did it the slightly lanky way).

Would need a blindfold on to ignore the good right foot in the break option (where the guy has his right hand in that pic) - this way still gives a quality finishing move. Didn't feel like a giveaway at 7A or 7A+ (unless compared to the Wave, in which case this should be about 6B-).

Happy Christmas.

[shurt]

I've done the wave but not this still!! 

Merry Christmas Xxx

[Duncan campbell]

You've done the wave but not this!?!? Wow. I'm impressed. The wave is desperate! How do you do the wave? Have you done nether edge or dancing queen?

Merry Xmas!

[shurt]

Oh Jesus, you're wheeling out all my Dartmoor skeletons!

I have got high up on both Nether Edge and Dancing Queen but no cigar... I find the bottom of Nether Edge weird. For me, it's like a door you can only get through one in about 20 times and once you're through its not too bad although I totally guffed the top up. I never got to the throw for the good fin at the top. I can only have so many goes on that bottom crimp as well.

Re The Wave: I've a friend who lives down in Totnes and has loads of good beta. I'd not made much progress on The Wave and he literally said put one foot there and the other there do this, do that. And the first few moves just happened, I got the rest first go. Its burly moves between pretty good holds then a long reach quite high up for the monkeys penis hold. Its an amazing problem. 

[Duncan campbell]

Hahaha - sorry!!

Yeah I found Nether Edge hard and consequently couldn't do it when I tried it on Boxing Day. I did manage Dancing Queen on the 28th though and thought it was way easier than both Nether Edge and The Wave! But The Wave is very powerful board-style and Nether Edge is weird as you say. Plus it's sharp as fook!

Still very psyched for heading down to Dartmoor more often because a) I'll be able to hang with the old folk a bit more and b) I'm psyched for the climbing on the sharp rock!!

Really got back into climbing on Dartmoor, it's a place I spent a lot of time as a teenager, albeit mostly on the proper Moor doing lots of hillwalking.

Need to do Interrogation at Low Man as well!

[shurt]

Hahaha - sorry!!

Yeah I found Nether Edge hard and consequently couldn't do it when I tried it on Boxing Day. I did manage Dancing Queen on the 28th though and thought it was way easier than both Nether Edge and The Wave! But The Wave is very powerful board-style and Nether Edge is weird as you say. Plus it's sharp as fook!

Still very psyched for heading down to Dartmoor more often because a) I'll be able to hang with the old folk a bit more and b) I'm psyched for the climbing on the sharp rock!!

Really got back into climbing on Dartmoor, it's a place I spent a lot of time as a teenager, albeit mostly on the proper Moor doing lots of hillwalking.

Need rrto do Interrogation at Low Man as well!

I love Dartmoor, I know lots of people who are indifferent about it which I don't get. It has its own unique charm and character.

If you are gearing up for Interrogation you might he interested to know that (in my opinion) its top end E3 maybe E4. If you do it in one pitch you'll need a lot of stamina and the traverse is bold and bouldery. I seconded a mate and pumped out on the bottom section but got tye traverse. It's a 3 star classic though, amazing routr.

[Duncan campbell]

Sounds great!! Just need to get down there in the summer!

[Gus]

Just dug this up from ages ago, beta for the top move:

[shurt]

Great photo, great beta! Where is the infamous heel hook people are waxing on about? Is that what your right foot's doing?

[SA Chris]

If you are gearing up for Interrogation you might he interested to know that (in my opinion) its top end E3 maybe E4. If you do it in one pitch you'll need a lot of stamina and the traverse is bold and bouldery. I seconded a mate and pumped out on the bottom section but got tye traverse. It's a 3 star classic though, amazing route.

I think top end E3 is the consensus grade anyway? One pitch would put it firmly into E4 IMO. Managed the traverse on second, but couldn't commit to the mantel on the 2nd pitch on second, thanks go to Hongkong Stuey for leading (he at least got his pic in the Simmonite book for his efforts).

[shurt]

yep, mantle is tricky. i wasn't sure about the ins and outs of 1 and 2 pitches. we only had the rockfax southwest guide which only gives it as a one pitch route. i only found out about two pitches afterwards and don't own either rockfax or the awesome black magic mystic guide book or whatever its called (need to buy on pronto before its unavailable!).

what a route though - full on. although maybe kafoozalum takes the biscuit for most undergraded E3 in the south west. I had my bum handed to me on that one and was going well at the time

[SA Chris]

Is Samson Arete the most undergraded E2?

[kingholmesy]

 

Is Samson Arete the most undergraded E2?

It's certainly pretty fucking hard for E2.

I thought Interrogation was top end but fair at E3 doing it in one pitch - and surely a better route doing it in a oner?

[shurt]

Is Samson Arete the most undergraded E2?

Ha! that was a good day. In fact was that the weekend we did Diocese? I got the crux second go if I remember correctly. Didn't think it was too bad all things considered. I mean Fingerknacker Crack was E2 at Caley in the old Desroy guide??! Madness

[Duncan campbell]

Just dug this up from ages ago, beta for the top move:

Waddage photo! That's how we did it too! Looks like you've got your foot in the break like any right minded human being would do!

Glad to hear kafoozalem is harder than interrogation! Tricky number that one - especially in the baking sun. Getting into that top lay back feels like you are going to blow it after all the hard work!

Been flicking through West Country climbs over the last few days - gonna have to make sure I get down there this year for some trad!

[SA Chris]

Ha! that was a good day. In fact was that the weekend we did Diocese? I got the crux second go if I remember correctly. Didn't think it was too bad all things considered. I mean Fingerknacker Crack was E2 at Caley in the old Desroy guide??! Madness

Yep and yep, and failed to find Logan Rock. I never got off the ground on FKC, so can't be objective

[Gus]

Couple of other good shots for beta whilst I'm here, plus one of that (left) heel which helps get established on the crystal crimps. Weird that it was yonks ago but I can still feel how that left heel bit and took loads of weight. Climbing's ace!!!

[shurt]

Ha! that was a good day. In fact was that the weekend we did Diocese? I got the crux second go if I remember correctly. Didn't think it was too bad all things considered. I mean Fingerknacker Crack was E2 at Caley in the old Desroy guide??! Madness

Yep and yep, and failed to find Logan Rock. I never got off the ground on FKC, so can't be objective

I only tried to second strong Pete (with legendary stamina) and even he fell about 3 times. I had to be lowered off and gear abbed for. I could climb E2 at the time

[Ged]

Am I going mad or have gus's pics vanished? What did they show!?

[macca7]

Hi Ged

I'm glad you've mentioned it as I thought it was just me!

Would be keen to see them as this is something I'm keen to get done / on!

[kingholmesy]

BETA ALERT

Dunno what the photos showed, but I thought it was pretty straightforward with a right heel high in the break.  Great move though. I couldn’t touch it with feet low on the crystals.

[Ged]

I love it when a good heel ruins everything