[Peak][Stanage][Cock o the rock area][Reputation][7cish] (Read 4805 times)

travs · January 14, 2013, 09:24:27 am

I'm going to start by trying to describe how to get to this. From the stile below cock o the rock walk along the path towards solomon's seal for about 100m. An obvious path then leads diagonally rightwards up to the crag in a slight cutting and as you reach the top of the path there is an obvious wall, about 5m high, up to the left. The wall has a small overlap at it's base and is crossed by a couple of obvious seams. The lower end of the wall has been slightly patioed and a few matts are advisable.

Sit start on the obvious large triangular hold on the right of wall and move up and leftwards via some small crimps, to reach a flake system which takes you easily to the top, staying clear of the left hand arete.

Bonjoy · January 14, 2013, 09:50:08 am

Is this on the same wall/a sit start to Youngster's Wall? There is a photo topo of this in the VG guide. Sounds similar. YW is a dynamic prob off an undercut/overlap, bearing slightly leftward.

travs · January 14, 2013, 09:56:49 am

No, I think it's before you get to Youngster's Wall, which should also get 7c. Who put up this problem because it's never been 7a!!!

Bonjoy · January 14, 2013, 10:48:38 am

Iain Farrar. He's quite tall. Think he did it as a dyno.
The new one sounds good. Will hunt it down next time I'm up there.

cofe · January 14, 2013, 10:53:30 am

YW was dynoed originally, but goes statically at about 7a for normal height people pressing off the thin seam.

cofe · January 14, 2013, 11:04:14 am

Actually, this sounds a bit like Crimp Shrimp, which is between Cock o the rock and YW, though it's a while since I've been up there.

Percy B · January 14, 2013, 11:11:00 am

Its not crimp shrimp. It is very good though.

cofe · January 14, 2013, 11:25:43 am

Good, cos I thought that looked a bit rubbish.

El Mocho · January 16, 2013, 01:56:04 pm

This is the prob, went and did today. As Trav has said sit start on triangular hold, along break and up, I avoided the big ledge and arete at the end.

Good fun, got video which will edit up...

El Mocho · January 16, 2013, 04:25:51 pm

video here:

(don't know how to insert vids directly, sure it is pretty easy to do...)

cofe · January 16, 2013, 04:26:25 pm

remove the 's' after http

El Mocho · January 16, 2013, 04:32:21 pm

ta love

cofe · January 16, 2013, 04:57:24 pm

you're welcome sweet cheeks

Fiend · January 16, 2013, 09:00:15 pm

Was Klem warm enough?

And are you over that labyrinthingy shit?

El Mocho · January 17, 2013, 09:09:05 am

Quote from: Fiend on January 16, 2013, 09:00:15 pm

Was Klem warm enough?

And are you over that labyrinthingy shit?

Yes and no. We had just given Klem a hair cut hence his new smart jacket. Been to hospital re Labrynthitititits and it seems I am gonna be stuck with it (it is something else but was feeling to faint after all the tests to pay any attention so have forgotten the name) hopefully as long as I am fit and well and rested it will continue to improve but as soon as I get tired, unwell or old (doc said over 60!) it will start to come back more...

GCW · January 17, 2013, 09:17:49 am

BPPV?

El Mocho · January 17, 2013, 09:25:52 am

don't think so

edit: think it might have been this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vestibular_neuronitis which is all pretty similar to Labrynthitis...

sorry

Jim · January 17, 2013, 08:38:15 pm

Never mind that, this new problem looks 1a. I recon even I could could do it in my current weak, fat and inebriated state.

a dense loner · January 17, 2013, 09:11:13 pm

Careful jim they'll think ive hacked your account, n then you'll get -ve karma cos no-one knows what a joke is anymore

travs · January 18, 2013, 08:14:00 am

Excellent, look forward to seeing the video of said ascent Jim....

a dense loner · January 18, 2013, 10:47:33 am

Jim can't walk all the way up there stop being mean travs