[JJP]

You re probably right sasquatch that my type of regime is not really a max hang - lopez has kind of re-defined the max hang.

I tried the lopez theory a few months back but had to stop after 4 weeks as (not surprisingly) my grumbling finger injury didnt like it - I am really psyched to go at it again when I have fully recovered the finger.

I also only got the BM a few months ago after having a moon FB for years and so am introducing many of the grip types and working weaknesses similar to nibiles "weaknesses" session.

I think my type of regime falls between repeaters and lopez system and is similar to more dated stuff (thinking of the simpson moon FB stuff).  It is not as much volume as repeaters and as albarro mentions only takes 40-60 mins incl warm up - this feels similar to a 45 degree board session for me.

Cheers for the advice

[Nibile]

When working multiple prehensions, I do the hangs in cycles. That is, from one hold to the other and then I repeat the sequence for the chosen number of sets (3 in my case). This works better for me than doing all the 3 hangs for the same hold and then passing to the others. Doing a cycle allows the holds to cool down and lose the sweat from the fingers. Plus, it gives a bigger rest time to same hangs.
I set the sequence of hangs according to this also, so that if the same finger works in two different hangs (like the middle finger in front2 and middle2) I will do a third hang in between (like back2 or ring monos) to give it a proper recovery.
Hope this helps.

[Luke Owens]

When working multiple prehensions, I do the hangs in cycles. That is, from one hold to the other and then I repeat the sequence for the chosen number of sets (3 in my case). This works better for me than doing all the 3 hangs for the same hold and then passing to the others. Doing a cycle allows the holds to cool down and lose the sweat from the fingers. Plus, it gives a bigger rest time to same hangs.
I set the sequence of hangs according to this also, so that if the same finger works in two different hangs (like the middle finger in front2 and middle2) I will do a third hang in between (like back2 or ring monos) to give it a proper recovery.
Hope this helps.

Sounds good, when I return to repeaters i'll stick to cycling finger combo's. Is this what you are doing for repeaters or max hangs?

For now, i'll see how I get on with this Lopez Max Hang cycle. The logic of doing high intensity short sessions on one grip type sounds like it will work.

Have you tried it at all Nibile?

[Nibile]

Sounds good, when I return to repeaters i'll stick to cycling finger combo's. Is this what you are doing for repeaters or max hangs?

For now, i'll see how I get on with this Lopez Max Hang cycle. The logic of doing high intensity short sessions on one grip type sounds like it will work.

Have you tried it at all Nibile?

That's what I do when I do two armed hangs, but I don't do repeaters at all, almost every prehension I train is close to max.
I have these two sessions because on certain holds I have a very big margin and I'd have to add a lot of weight, one thing that I don't want to be doing. So I split fingers to get back to max efforts.
On one armed hangs, almost everything is close to max so no problem of adding weight.
I haven't specifically tried Eva's plan, for the same reason of above, that is the need to add a lot of weight. Mind, I've been just fingerboarding for the first 7/8 years of my climbing "career" for the lack of indoor walls, so I built up a good foundation before going more specific with the Beastmaker, that I bought only two and half years ago or so.

[Luke Owens]

Sounds good, when I return to repeaters I'll stick to cycling finger combo's. Is this what you are doing for repeaters or max hangs?

For now, I'll see how I get on with this Lopez Max Hang cycle. The logic of doing high intensity short sessions on one grip type sounds like it will work.

Have you tried it at all Nibile?

That's what I do when I do two armed hangs, but I don't do repeaters at all, almost every prehension I train is close to max.
I have these two sessions because on certain holds I have a very big margin and I'd have to add a lot of weight, one thing that I don't want to be doing. So I split fingers to get back to max efforts.
On one armed hangs, almost everything is close to max so no problem of adding weight.
I haven't specifically tried Eva's plan, for the same reason of above, that is the need to add a lot of weight. Mind, I've been just fingerboarding for the first 7/8 years of my climbing "career" for the lack of indoor walls, so I built up a good foundation before going more specific with the Beastmaker, that I bought only two and half years ago or so.

Ah I see, splitting the fingers to get get max effort instead of weight. Makes sense, I'll remember that when I'm a beast! 

I haven't been fingerboarding very long so I think I'm getting quite quick gains due to this so I don't have to be too specific right now. Although, I do make sure I plan everything out and log what I'm doing.

[yankcranker]

been using the DRC v5.12 hangboard - love it. literally feel the difference overnight after a good sesh. next one will definitely be a beastmaker...i just wish they sold them outside of the UK, shipping is a serious bitch.

[Nibile]

been using the DRC v5.12 hangboard - love it. literally feel the difference overnight after a good sesh. next one will definitely be a beastmaker...i just wish they sold them outside of the UK, shipping is a serious bitch.

It's DRCC by the way.
As in "Detroit Rock Climbing Company".