[kingholmesy]

It's looking increasing likely that I'm going to be moving back down south in the spring.  The thought of not being able to get out on the grit every weekend is already depressing me.

So, what are the best half a dozen or so, must-do problems which I should get done this winter up to 7bish?

Not interested in arse dragging traverses. Highballs more than welcome.

I mainly climb in the Peak, but the odd trip to Yorkshire isn't out of the question.

[kingholmesy]

No-one wanna tell their favorite problems? 

Was thinking Jackalope, Suavito, Chip Shop Brawl and Piss.  Any others?

Alternatively, the mods could just put me out of my misery and log pile this ...

[205Chris]

Limiting to 6 is tricky but here goes:

Suavito
Art of White Hat Wearing
The Alliance
My Apple
Big Al Qaeda
Stall

Piss is alright but there's better problems out there. Never done it but always fancied Chip Shop Brawl.

[Gritlad]

I really like Help the Young.
Art of White Hat Wearing
The classic 4 on the Eagle Stone would make a good day out.
Thats my half dozen 

Plus what Chris said

[TobyD]

West Side Story
Nightsalt
Beneath the Breadline
One of them Eagle Stone things - I can't remember which is best
Ben's Groove (Caley)
Tierdrop

[Kingy]

Piss
Blind Date
Zippy's Traverse (Stanage)
Rambeau (Froggatt)
Sean's Arete (Curbar)
Boyager

[dave]

Clouded Judgement
Monochrome
Buckstone Dyno
Zaff's
Jason's Roof
Marks Roof LH

[kingholmesy]

Cheers.  Have done Help the Young and some of the stuff on the Eagle Stone.

I would absolutely love to do West Side Story, but suspect it is just a touch too hard.

Will definitely add The Alliance and Sean's Arete to the list though - had forgotten about both of them.

[leeroy]

Spare Rib
West Side Story
Suavito
Desparete
Fish Arete SS
Swingers Party

+ alot of others.

piss on twice? what gives?

[Kingy]

I would only put Piss in if done the approved Hard Grit sequence, not if done that silly mantel way...only cos I can't do it like that!

[Tom de Gay]

True Pebble Wall
Layby Arete
Winsome
Velvet Silence
C3PO
Buckstone Dyno

[Richie Crouch]

Bens Groove, caley
Ron's crack 2, crookrise
The grouch, brimham
Suavito, gardoms
Jackalope, gardoms
Trust, roaches

[Bonjoy]

Here’s a fairly SE peak centric selection:


California Screaming
The Alliance (with SS)
Big Al Qaeda
Beneath the Breadline
Sauvito
Winsome

Or it you want a more personal, less prosaic and still amazing bunch:

Invasion of the Cider Women Direct
The Pride
Roller Bowler Currant
Chess Boxer/Grimoire
Spike
Gathering Storm
(I’d have put some Kinder on that list but they’re not really winter venues)

[OffshoreAndy]

mate, i'll probably just climb Captain Hook 6 times, because as you know it is the best problem in the Peak.

[kingholmesy]

mate, i'll probably just climb Captain Hook 6 times, because as you know it is the best problem in the Peak.

Andy, you need to: (i) get a life; and (ii) see my quote above:

Not interested in arse dragging traverses.

BTW way, let me know if you might be around 28 to 30 December - I'm still keen for Northumberland if you're not offshore.

[kingholmesy]

I see that Suavito is getting a lot of love on this thread.  How essential are spotters and/or more than my two old, knackered bouldering mats?

[nic mullin]

Two pads (even if they're a bit ropey) should be fine. A good spot off the block on the left is very helpful though. 

[andyd]

Two pads (even if they're a bit ropey) should be fine. A good spot off the block on the left is very helpful though.

I agree. You're likely to barn door off the crux and land on the pads rather than the rock, although I'm not going to say you'll miss the block entirely as shit happens...

No one has mentioned storm at stanage? Blood falls? Dick Williams? Early Doors? famous Grouse Stand? All beauties in the Peak.
And then Yorkshire...where to start?!

[Gritlad]

No one has mentioned storm at stanage? Blood falls? Dick Williams? Early Doors? famous Grouse Stand? Flatworld?
 All beauties in the Peak.

fixed that there 
Storm and flatworld are 7B+ but worth getting on.

[andyd]

He did say 7b ish.

Sorry for incorrect list. Luckily the opinion police stepped in

[andy_e]

And then Yorkshire...where to start?!

All of these...

[leeroy]

He did say 7b ish.

Sorry for incorrect list. Luckily the opinion police stepped in

 

further to add, pogles wood ss, made in sheffield, yoghurt hypnotist, andle stone wall and the gritstone treaty.

5 more quality 7bs.

[andyd]

He did say 7b ish.

Sorry for incorrect list. Luckily the opinion police stepped in

 

further to add, pogles wood ss, made in sheffield, yoghurt hypnotist, andle stone wall and the gritstone treaty.

5 more quality 7bs.

We wait for verification...

[Gritlad]

  no problems with that list....
just waiting until some one mentions something like zippys traverse....

[leeroy]

Piss
Blind Date
Zippy's Traverse (Stanage)
Rambeau (Froggatt)
Sean's Arete (Curbar)
Boyager

what do you mean waiting?

[Gritlad]

christ.
Leave the peak , go to the orme 

[tommytwotone]

How about a Yorkshire-centric list of 6?

A few I've done, a few off the wishlist here...see YG for beta / photos etc:

Pebble Wall (6c), Almscliff
Whisky Galore (7a), Brimham
Fantasy League (7a), Brimham
Barry Kingsize (7a), Crookrise
The Horn (7a+), Caley Crag
Trust (7b), Guisecliff

Reckon you'd be pretty happy with that little lot if you took a long weekend's detour north and that is really only scratching the surface!

[kingholmesy]

How about a Yorkshire-centric list of 6?

A few I've done, a few off the wishlist here...see YG for beta / photos etc:

Pebble Wall (6c), Almscliff
Whisky Galore (7a), Brimham
Fantasy League (7a), Brimham
Barry Kingsize (7a), Crookrise
The Horn (7a+), Caley Crag
Trust (7b), Guisecliff

Reckon you'd be pretty happy with that little lot if you took a long weekend's detour north and that is really only scratching the surface!

I've already ticked Pebble Wall (which is awesome) and The Horn (which was OK).  Am yet to visit Brimham - bit of a gap in my climbing CV which I will have to try and rectify.

[kingholmesy]

And then Yorkshire...where to start?!

All of these...

I'm keen, but that might be a bit of a stretch by the end of March.

[tommytwotone]

How about a Yorkshire-centric list of 6?

A few I've done, a few off the wishlist here...see YG for beta / photos etc:

Pebble Wall (6c), Almscliff
Whisky Galore (7a), Brimham
Fantasy League (7a), Brimham
Barry Kingsize (7a), Crookrise
The Horn (7a+), Caley Crag
Trust (7b), Guisecliff

Reckon you'd be pretty happy with that little lot if you took a long weekend's detour north and that is really only scratching the surface!

updated...

Syrett's Roof (6c+), Almscliff
Whisky Galore (7a), Brimham
Barry Kingsize (7a), Crookrise
Fantasy League (7a+), Brimham
Toboggan Wall (7b), Guisecliff
Trust (7b), Guisecliff

[tomtom]

My Peak experience is less good, but I would reccomend

Help the Young
Seans Arete (superb0
Breakfast (no one mentions this - its an ace problem..)

[tim palmer]

Mc Nab (7b) at Lord's seat, a bit of a walk but excellent climbing in a really nice place.

[andy_e]

Mc Nab (7b) at Lord's seat

Whilst you're up there, also do Whalebak (7A+), Galaxy (7A), Spondonical (7B), Dino-Mania (7A(!)) and Hen Arete (7B) for 6 of the Barden Fell Best.

[Bonjoy]

I love Barden Fell but have to say I thought Whalebak whilst very photogenic is not one of the best up there. One lanky move into easy ground and an eliminate. Dare I extend the heresy by saying Galaxy climbs nicely but is a line of chiselled crimps... I’d swap those two out for Naked Edge and either I’ll Bet She Does or And She Way, both equally brilliant.
Has anyone repeated my Molly Moocher SS at Rylstone? <bold claim> I reckon this is up there with McNab in the quality moorland 7b charts </bold claim>.

[andy_e]

Fair enough. I've not done the three 7As (Triptych, Trilogy, Triad) nor Pinna (7A+) but they're supposed to be decent. I like Whalebak and Galaxy but haven't done the highball ones you mentioned because I have no testes so included them for that purpose. Another good 7B is the sit-start to the trunk left of Toe-Fu.

[Bonjoy]

Sorry about dissing your selections Andi. I did enjoy them both. It’s just that I’d seen loads of pics of Whalebak before I did it and had been expecting something extra special…

[andy_e]

No worries man, I do agree though, they're not necessarily the best problems up there, I'm speaking from experience (as opposed to from my arse for once). Not that I've done Dino-Mania, just that I've seen it done and it looks good...

[moose]

Fantasy League (7a+), Brimham
Toboggan Wall (7b), Guisecliff
Trust (7b), Guisecliff

Despite climbing pretty much everything else at those grades at Brimham, I've never given Fantasy League much attention.  Just seemed a bit unpleasant - bunched moves with a foot jammed, sandy rock (even by Brimham standards), and a spine-threatening block behind.  Presumably it climbs better than it first seems but is really it better than Grouch, Pinky Traverse, Crimpy Roof?

Re Guisecliffe - Sucker Punch is good too.  Though not sure about anything there being worthy of an all-Yorkshire top six - it's a nice enough location but there's a lot of dirty, snappy holds and bad landings (Toboggan Wall - it's called that for a reason).  Is it likely to be dry this winter?

[tommytwotone]

Know what you mean about Guisecliff, but I gather with some imagination you can fashion a landing with a couple of pads for Toboggan Wall - I gather the photo of Nige in the guide was taken sans spotter! 

I did have a protracted battle with Fantasy League so I may be biased, but I reckon it's a great climb - packs a lot of different styles in, you've got a bit of jamming leg locking funk, some burly foot off shizzle and then finish with a tricky / balancey move round the corner. As for bunched...not a problem I experienced! 

[Plattsy]

Breakfast
Attitude Inspector
Marks Roof LH
Ultimate Gritstone Experience
Technical Master
Acid Reign

[andy_e]

I'd say SuckerPunch, Pok-a-Tok and A Little Sparkle for my Guisecliff favourites (but I've still not done A Little Sparkle nor tried Trust).

[andyd]

Sorry about dissing your selections Andi. I did enjoy them both. It’s just that I’d seen loads of pics of Whalebak before I did it and had been expecting something extra special…

A great line with an anticlimactic top out. Scrittly if you follow the Dunning guide book line out to the pocket. Perhaps it needs more traffic.


No mention of a beautiful highball arete above Tod' valley as yet...