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UKB Power club week 147 Mon 3rd Dec - Sun 9th Dec (Read 9821 times)

fried

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Monday - Tuesday - Work
Wednesday - Indoor, usual mix of bouldering/ stretching/ core stuff/ repeaters 3x6 (2 sets)
Thursday - nowt
Friday - As above, but lots of new problems and a repaint of part my local wall, only open since March as well. Just climb and skip the rest. Had a go with the repeaters but was too tired by the time I started.

Saturday - Nothing. I lie, I did some repeaters on a door frame while waiting for dinner just to impress my 18yr Niece.

Sunday - As above, usually for my third session in five days I'm too tired to do much but today was different, felt fresh, no idea why. Did some new stuff, worked some 6B stuff which I can do the moves but not link. Core/ stretching etc. Repeaters were feeling much easier 4x6 (2 sets).

Any idea if it's better to increase the number of repetitions, the number of sets or increase the angle of the overhang I'm hanging? Dropping down onto smaller rungs is impossible but I can do the same size but steeper.

rich d

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Mon to wed bit of finger boarding, bit of plank, bit of pressups
Thurs Glasgow work day - snow disrupted long return home
Fri notts depot after work - with the 2 daughters, fun but didn't do much
Sat Xmas family stuff
Sun looked at beachball in the wet - could still go his year if it dries! Then outside cafe with daughters for a pint of coffee. Still time for a BM session this evening.

shark

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Any idea if it's better to increase the number of repetitions, the number of sets or increase the angle of the overhang I'm hanging? Dropping down onto smaller rungs is impossible but I can do the same size but steeper.

Depends on what you are trying to train. For max strength increase the angle, for endurance increase number of reps, for session type stamina increase number of sets.

11.8-9

Mon. Lunch weighted deadhangs Eve. Works with Ben and friends. Pottered around.   
Tues. Eve. Foundry. Quick hour on Wave.
Weds.Lunch Weighted deadhangs
Thurs.
Fri. AM Weighted deadhangs
Sat. Eve. Housewarming party
Sun. eatswood with Seb. Bitter wind and a bit sniffly. Hard work. Did some links but struggled. Felt wiped out after. No progress.

Was meant to be an easyish week but ended up doing a reasonable amount. Upped weight on deadhangs to 37.5kg but not doing full 3x10secs.

Busy week this week workwise. Right shoulder a lot better but going to steer clear of the campus board till it's fully recovered. May get out to eatswood on weds again.

 

TobyD

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Mon Repeaters: 10 x sets of 6 x 7/3 on /off , large rung campussing, core
Tues 35 minutes turbo trainer.
Wed Repeaters  2 x 10 min on aero, large rung campussing
Thurs Repeaters 10 / 15 min on aero
Fri Turbo trainer
Sat repeaters, circuit setting on board, 10 min aero on wave, hour or so out ont'bike.
Sun 5 x 10 min on aero


Duma

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STG - don't get slack with wrist stuff, sort shoulder tweak, get in proper shape for MTG
MTG - multiple 7C's this winter, 7C+
LTG - 8A, 68kg

M - nothing, eve shift
T - nothing, eve shift
W - brief session at TCA before eve shift - ok, not really long enough to get much done, and very busy because of forces comp going on, but did some decent links on the black circuit.
T - nothing, had daughter all day
F - nothing, had daughter all day
S - grabbed quick hour at TCA before night shift, played on harder couple of the comp probs from weds, another good link on the black
S - nothing, nights

69-69.5kg - pleased.

duncan

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STG: Stay uninjured, 7b by end year.
LTG: E5, Ambitious LH+F objectives in Switzerland, Dolomites and USA.

M - The Biscuit: bouldering, work on new red circuit (V3-V5).  Feeling  :sick: so bagged it. 
T - Man 'flu
W - Man 'flu
T - Man 'flu
F - Man 'flu
S - Man 'flu
S - Man 'flu

Not a great week and a lost opportunity: family in the land of earthquakes, superb weather, partners recruited...
Interestingly/worryingly I've put on nearly 2kg in a week despite no change in diet.  I don't do much exercise but just being out of the house and moderately active most of the day has a marked effect on my metabolism it seems. 

Muenchener

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STG : Steep pumpy 6b onsight, 7a redpoint (this year looking questionable: not much of it left)
MTG (2013):Continue to build alpine rock experience by ticking one or more long (> 20 pitches) routes and one or more big classic VI's.
   (2013):Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2
   (????): Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp.
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

Missed last week. Oops. Not much done last two weeks anyway: easing off training pre-Xmas / post boulder comps.

M.
T.
W. Wall, Thalkirchen. Routes. Finally ticked my long term STG: onsighted a steep, long (by wall standards: 17 metres) 6b. 5c 6b (yyfy) 6a 6a 6a 6b
T. Alpine approach training: 20 mins step-ups w/heavy rucksack
F. Fourth session of 100 pressups project
S.
S. Fifth session of 100 pressups project

M.
T. Sixth session of 100 pressups project
W.
T.
F. Team silliness with colleagues: 3 x 40 stories office tower stair running.
S. Wall, Boulderwelt. Stamina session: first 50 or so of the winter comp problems. Even a very easy problem takes a bit of mental effort when it's the 50th of the session.
S. DAV Christmas party / planning next year's programme. Munich DAV North Wales International Meet 2013 is now a reality (3 of us so far). First week of September. Would be very happy to meet up with any ukb'ers who happen to be around at the time - will re-post nearer the time.

iain

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STG: Volume until new year.
MTG: 3 7c+/8a between Jan-March
LTG: Infinite Gravity next Sept

M: 3x4min repeater sets alternating 1st joint half crimp and slots. 48 pull-ups to finish.
T: Rest
W: Biscuit factory for an almost too busy social evening, but managed to get a decent number of problems done up to 7Aish.
T: 3x4min repeater sets alternating 1st joint half crimp and slots. Felt easier than Mon. 48 pull-ups to finish.
F: Rest
S: A fantastic sunny day at Avon. Started on the ramp with New Horizons 2 and Arms Race which I've wanted to do for ages. More brawn than brain but good fun. We had hoped to get on Peryl but mistimed the day and were going to run out of sun, and therefore warmth, so did Mike's Mistake and Central Buttress instead where freezing finger's didn't matter so much. Such a treat to get a good trad day at this time of year.
S: Rest

A good week, and very pleased to still have E4 fitness. Volume and intensity are both improving and I'm managing to not unduly aggravate shoulder and elbows. Two more weeks of this before xmas holiday.

Three Nine

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Hi Iain - i can't help noticing you do a lot of pull-ups for a man with bad elbows. Pull-ups are pretty much the first thing I drop if i've got any elbow nonsense and i know lots of others who do likewise.

csl

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fuck all again this week

Broke down on the way to Leeds on tuesday, which was pretty gutting.

Good session at Kelsey Kerridge yesterday - setting is definitely improving there. Did most of the new problems. Just 5 more to get. 2 doable when fresh, 3 untried.

Sasquatch

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So I'm getting back on the power club wagon....

STG: Bishop Trip at End of January  - Mandala, drop weight from 177 back to 170 by Bishop trip.
MTG: Maintain weight at ot under 170.  Build to 90lbs added to BM2k lower slot max hangs. (by June)
LTG: Change Life direction - become Lodge Owner

Monday - AM wtd Hangs, Lunch Lift upper Body, PM Boulder
Tuesday - Lunch Lift Legs/Core/Aerocap climbing, PM Run 4mi
Wednesday - PM Run -5mi
Thursday - AM Wtd Hangs, Lunch Roped climbing(15routes)
Friday - Lunch Lift Upper/Lower/Core, PM Climb (boulder lots and hard)
Sat - Off
Sunday - Soccer Game, then ran for 45 min.

Overall feel for the week - Good start to the oliday Season week 1 of 4 down.  This coming week will drop the climbing volume down to allow the fingers to recover better from the wtd hangs.   

erm, sam

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Thesiger, you talk about doing "technique drills" a fair bit since you moved to Squamish. Is this a common thing for Canadian climbers to do or are you particularly working with a coach for them? Still unusual to do technique drills (eg never see anybody at the wall climbing in any sort of methodical drillish fashion) in the UK though I think a lot of peeps would agree they would be useful, if only they got round to doing some.. Are you finding they are helping? What sort of things are you doing?

duncan

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Quote from: iain
S: A fantastic sunny day at Avon. Started on the ramp with New Horizons 2 and Arms Race which I've wanted to do for ages. More brawn than brain but good fun. We had hoped to get on Peryl but mistimed the day and were going to run out of sun, and therefore warmth, so did Mike's Mistake and Central Buttress instead where freezing finger's didn't matter so much. Such a treat to get a good trad day at this time of year.

A good week, and very pleased to still have E4 fitness.


Let's call Arms Race F6c as a top-rope.  Low Profile would be F7a on the same scale and is well within your capabilities.  Like Arms Race, it is a little hard-to-read on the onsight but all the holds are there.  A good first E5 for a fit sport climber.


Interestingly/worryingly I've put on nearly 2kg in a week despite no change in diet.
Is it possible you drank more alcohol than usual? I am increasingly convinced that quite small variations in alcohol consumption explain a lot of my weight variation. I am sketchy on the science here but I believe that unlike some other nutrients that the body may or may not absorb during the digestive process based on many factors, alcohol is all absorbed rapidly and has to all be metabolised rapidly (as it is a toxin).

Sadly not!  I've virtually given up since becoming a Dad and, usually, I'm a little lighter than I was 3 years ago mainly as a result of this.  I think it is mainly due to sitting on my behind and drinking gallons of tea.
(I am possibly over doing the snacks to go with the tea...)
« Last Edit: December 10, 2012, 07:46:39 pm by duncan »

TobyD

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Let's call Arms Race F6c as a top-rope.  Low Profile would be F7a on the same scale and is well within your capabilities.  Like Arms Race, it is a little hard-to-read on the onsight but all the holds are there.  A good first E5 for a fit sport climber.

Indeed it is, if anything i would say your (French) grades are a touch generous, but Fr numbers for trad often depend on how much you were overgripping / got lost / put excessive numbers of runners in, so they're probably rightish! 

iain

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i can't help noticing you do a lot of pull-ups for a man with bad elbows

 :guilty:  :-[ My elbows aren't actually hurting at the moment, but I know they will if/when I start one arm work again (like deadhangs), and perhaps this contributes. I really enjoy them but maybe they're more ingrained habit than useful.

Anyone got good suggestions for how to give the shoulders/upper back a good workout at the end of a session without pull-ups? Bolton complex?

Low Profile would be F7a on the same scale and is well within your capabilities.

Noted, thank you both

Duncan Disorderly

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Goals: eatswood Trav, F8a...

M: Weighted hangs - @ 29Kg
T: 8 mile run
W: Tired and lethargic - Short core session on bar.
T: Works - Still feeling tired, did most of new black circuit which was ok apart from being marred by chilblains and a recurring blister leaving my feet in permanent agony - resorted to putting the Teams on as they're softer - felt like razor blades were  stuffed inside my boots.
F: Rest.
S: Tried boots on - Foot Rape!! Sacked it off.. Fixed my oven and went to a party and saw where the proceeds of UKB are going  :jab:
S: Tried boots on again - Someone's replaced the lining with sandpaper! - Weighted deadhangs 29.5Kg.

Deadhanging's going well... Feet are knackered.. Not sure how to resolve it, tried Savlon, Balimosa, Tiger Balm, Climb on, airing them, not airing them, keeping them warm, cooling them down.. Still trashed! Gonna have most the week off even trying to put me boots on and hope I can bear to put them on at the weekend!


shark

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Thesiger, you talk about doing "technique drills" a fair bit since you moved to Squamish. Is this a common thing for Canadian climbers to do or are you particularly working with a coach for them? Still unusual to do technique drills (eg never see anybody at the wall climbing in any sort of methodical drillish fashion) in the UK though I think a lot of peeps would agree they would be useful, if only they got round to doing some.. Are you finding they are helping? What sort of things are you doing?
I guess I got the idea from reading some Dave Macleod stuff and also watching that recent Sean McColl training video. No, it's nothing especially Canadian and, no, I don't have a coach. It's partly a response to trying to figure out how to make best use of a very small bouldering gym where there's a ban on marking up problems and rarely anyone else there when I go (and anyway most other users are absurdly strong). Also I am sort-of training there for my once per week bouldering session at the Hive in Vancouver, a larger more conventional bouldering gym with set graded problems. It's possible that it is actually helping as I have improved my performance at the Hive quite a lot, but that could just be down to familiarity. The main drills I have been doing are wide shouldery moves and long rock-ups/ reaches on crimps with high footholds. As symmetrically as possible. In all cases just single movements, done in sets with timed rests like any other systematic training.

I'd describe that as systems training and probably has more to do with strength training than improving technique.

Nothing wrong with that - far from it.

cheque

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STG- 7A and E2 on grit this season, maintain/ improve sport fitness over winter.
MTG- Crimpy pennine lime redpoints.

M- Rest.
T- Depot. First sesh on new red (V3-V5) circuit- Did 22 out of 30, with a surprisingly high percentage of flashes. Feeling confident in my technique for the first time in months- two consecutive days of grit bouldering has finally tuned me back in. Reds are also good for my tweaky fingers as they have few crimps (although crimps is what I'd ideally be training ::)) One lap of new ~F6a jug circuit on circuit board at the end. Did proper front lever for first time ever. Check me out.  :dance1:
W- Front levers. I can only hold them for ~1 second so I'm doing sets of ten. Hopefully this will lead to being hold them for longer.
T- Notts Depot. Arrived late and felt weak, but did four new reds. Finished with two laps of aforementioned jug circuit w/ only small footholds.
F- Rest. Fingers feeling a bit dodgy, although paranoia/ empathy from reading Ailsa's harrowing blog may have exaggerated this.
S- Rest. Fingers feeling fine.
S- 4.8 mile run in Chilterns w/ super fit girlfriend.

My new girlfriend  :wub: lives in the south east, doesn't climb and likes to feed me cake, but is into running so I went with her to add some traning content into a weekend down there. 4.8 miles is the longest I've ever run but I wasn't sick and I can see how the increased respiratory fitness would help me. My thighs were so sore yesterday I couldn't even entertain the idea of going out bouldering on a dry day off though...  :slap:

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Iain I'd do some press ups for end of session shoulders upper back, but have arms far apart and kind of typewriter down on one arm if that makes sense ie try n touch one hand wi your chest then the other hand, if these aren't testing enough do sets going down to the same hand then change.
Cheque doing ten sets of one second front levers won't help, god knows I've tried. Nothing helps me with front levers at all. My tiny friend can do them off the couch on pretty much any sized edge for easily 20 seconds whilst telling you how weak he is. Truth be told I've never liked him

shark

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Noted, and edited above. So what would be a "technique drill"?

I'm guessing a bit but...

For beginner practicing foot swaps, cross throughs and similar stuff.

For the advanced working on stuff that you aren't predisposed to say initiating movement from hips rather than shoulders. Doing stuff dynamically if you are a static climber or vice versa. Working a very hard move repeatedly, experimenting with diffrent body positioning. Dunno.

erm, sam

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Quote
So what would be a "technique drill"?

what Shark says + Working out what moves you don't do so often eg outside flag or inside flag or head initiated momentum vs foot initiated momentum a la DMC and specifically working on them. At first in isolation, then on progressivly harder moves/problems until you can incorporate the improved/new movement in a full on trying really hard problem scenario..


nai

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m - felt ill, did repeaters, struggled.
till
will
th - improving, used the short window-of-wellishness around midday, kept it short but managed to finish The Traverse. Felt gash later, not short enough
fill
s - Almscliffe, started well, got too cold in the wind, faded.
s - nowt




iain

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Cheers Dense, probably more useful for the shoulders than back? I should do more push-ups for a bit of balance.


My new girlfriend  :wub: lives in the south east

Close enough to sneak off to portland for a day?
You might get more benefit holding the front-levers for longer with a leg tucked.

a dense loner

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Does work the top of the back quite a bit, esp if done quite slow n tensing at the bottom, arms as wide as comfy 4u

cheque

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Cheers for the front lever advice guys. My lower back's been hurting a bit since I started doing them, though, so I'm steering clear for a bit!


My new girlfriend  :wub: lives in the south east

Close enough to sneak off to portland for a day?

It's Buckinghamshire. Google reckons about 3 hours to Portland. Closest climbing is Southern Sandstone which I'm suddenly intrigued by!

Definitely up for a trip to Portland at some point though!  :2thumbsup:

 

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