Quote from: shark on December 04, 2012, 11:06:15 amEva say that for optimal gains sessions should be preceded by a day of rest so that you can get the required intensity and hopefully response with 48-72hrs before the next deadhang session. These recommendations might not be relevant to Elite climbers. Eva might say that, but how sure is/are she/you that it's actually right? I'd agree that the optimal gains from strength will be when you're fresh, but e.g. is it better to get optimal gains from 3.5 sessions a week or slightly depressed gains from 5 sessions a week? (I don't know the answer to that, but it doesn't leave much time to fit everything else in - bouldering, an cap etc)
Eva say that for optimal gains sessions should be preceded by a day of rest so that you can get the required intensity and hopefully response with 48-72hrs before the next deadhang session. These recommendations might not be relevant to Elite climbers.
Indeed it is but I was planning on doing it on Sunday which would be day 4 on. This is outside the approved sequence for weighted deadhangs which requires 48hrs between sessions, I thought this meant weighted deadhang sessions not just bouldering so the rebuke was probably deserved
You seem to want to be "everything at once" to use that catchy line from the microsoft ad which certainly isn't optimal.
Quote from: shark on December 04, 2012, 12:44:10 pmYou seem to want to be "everything at once" to use that catchy line from the microsoft ad which certainly isn't optimal.Wasn't that Self Coached Cimber Dual-Factor Theory? Has it been proved to be wrong?
Its a while since I've read it but I would be surprised they would advocate the same bit of everything each week.
Quote from: shark on December 04, 2012, 01:16:00 pmIts a while since I've read it but I would be surprised they would advocate the same bit of everything each week.Was I advocating a bit of everything? I hadn't even mentioned aerocap/aeropow/anpow maintenance, just bouldering and ancap. I don't think bouldering + directed strength exercises + ancap will confuse your body. If you're doing double sessions that should work fine though - you'll get as many sessions as before just in a different configuration. My point was just that what Lopez says isn't necessarily right (e.g. Ramon apparently puts hangs at the end of strength work rather than the start as basic work is supposed to be better done after exercises requiring coordination) and there's always going to be a trade off between being as fresh as possible (to optimise gains from each session) and having a high frequency of sessions.Anyway, strength work 4th day on would be hard unless the 3 first days were short. I'm not sure there's anything magic about weighted hangs though - the same principles that apply to that would apply to short boulders, campusing etc.
Shark, after several months of this, now you can hang this small edge with n more kg hung off you than you could before, have you seen any improvements in actual outdoor climbing? For example any advancement in overall bouldering grade, or problems that were once hard feeling easier?