Of which video do you speak oh great commentator of our noble past time?Ah the world is never black of white but is eternally shrouded in grey, lets see if we can put these points in the 'OK' or 'Not OK' category:- Drilling bolts at sport crags within whatever guidelines may apply at that particular crag
- Knocking of loose holds on new routes
- Knocking of holds that aren't loose to make your new route harder
- stabilising a hold to make your new route climbable
- drilling/chipping holds on your new route.
Are you being serious? Ask me the same questions when you've finished school
Lund I'm in no way politically correct but is the use of "gay" as a derogatory term really necessary? It's 2012 and it seems a bit seventies offensive these days even to me, now then now then.
Nowhere did I say that drilling a climb down to a certain level is a good thing because it lets more people enjoy it.To be devil's advocate, how is your argument any different to saying that that route would be a cutting edge E10 and therefore we shouldn't bolt it so that lots of 7b climbers could enjoy it?My original example (the CS) wouldn't have a brilliant hard boulder problem in the middle of it, it would have some horrible boning the life out of some scrittle.
to make a similar example concerning bolts, i'd refer to "semi-trad" multipitch granite routes in the alps.
A small bolt-on hold would be an honest and reversible solution of sorts I guess . Would have to be a properly amazing route to be worth taking the shit you'd get for it though!
So, should I drill one small crimp to create what will honestly be one of the best long 7b+'s around, or leave it as it is
Quote from: Bonjoy on December 12, 2012, 01:30:53 pmA small bolt-on hold would be an honest and reversible solution of sorts I guess . Would have to be a properly amazing route to be worth taking the shit you'd get for it though!Yeah for me there's two main concerns - firstly I'd get loads of shit from people, secondly I'd then have a reputation for chipping. Once you've done it once any new route thereafter might have people wondering if it's chipped.In theory I don't have too much of a problem with chipped routes - as long as it's very good and as long as it's someone else taking the shit for it! In a perfect world it wouldn't happen...
I would have to say leave it as well, some folk actually enjoy "6c crimping on crozzles". Bonjoys example of Free Monster is a bit different as I can't really understand why the aritificial hold was put where it was. That bit isn't even the crux and the move is a cool one which is not that hard in my opinion. Anyone know the reason?