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I have an idea... (Read 3164 times)

Zen

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I have an idea...
October 08, 2013, 01:04:36 pm
...Imagine you're at your local indoor wall/ outdoor bloc. You're stuck on a problem. You're mate(s) are also stuck on the same problem. Nobody can work out a slice of/any of the beta.

So, you take a picture of the entire climb and/or some smaller photos of individual sections or holds that are causing you trouble. You then post the photo onto a website (for talking sake we'll say it's called 'givemebeta.com' or 'master[of]beta.com') and number the holds, along with a key linked to a small description (e.g. 'Hold 5: ~10mm even undercling with the possibility of 4mm or so crimp along the top') and some selection boxes, maybe along the lines of the gradient of the wall or 'definitely can't be used as a handhold' or things like that.

The website is setup more or less like a forum (fuck, I suppose it could be done on here in a simpler format now I think about it) so give the descriptions and pics, other climbers can have a stab at some possible beta or obvious solutions that might not have been quite so obvious when you're thumping away at it on the actual wall. Climbers are given credit for attempts at providing online beta and extra credit if their beta turns out to work for the individual that posted it.

Of merit? Pointless? Already done? Honest thoughts?

SA Chris

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#1 Re: I have an idea...
October 08, 2013, 01:09:18 pm
Surely unless it's anything but nigh on impossible someone at the wall must have done it? I would find it hard to figure out some beta on how to do something unless I've actually done it myself?

The name masterbeta is genius though.

petejh

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#2 Re: I have an idea...
October 08, 2013, 02:10:22 pm
Not the same thing but related - I played around with software which helps to visualise why a move or sequence of moves works. It involves using something like Dartfish http://www.dartfish.com/en/coaching_video/individual-sports/examples.htm#item191 to superimpose the center of gravity and hand/footholds onto a video of a climber doing a boulder problem or route. Same idea as on the self coached climber dvd. Add in the size, shape and direction of holds and it would be a pretty powerful tool. I reckon with a bit of fine-tuning and use of various angles (or augmented reality, once AR technology of the sort used by sky sports for football analysis becomes widely affordable) you can have a really powerful tool for working out how to do moves. I doubt the effort in designing something like that would be worth the reward though.

Obi-Wan is lost...

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#3 Re: I have an idea...
October 08, 2013, 03:23:45 pm
Sort of related, might have been mentioned before, but 'Coaches Eye' is a cut down version of Dartfish for less than a couple of fuck alls (Proper Dartfish is big money). On iOS and Android.

http://www.coachseye.com/

r-man

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#4 Re: I have an idea...
October 08, 2013, 04:32:05 pm
Something similar was tried a few years ago. The website is down now, so I guess it didn't take off. Some of the pages are archived:

http://web.archive.org/web/20051105024733/http://www.themoves.co.uk/

andyd

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#5 Re: I have an idea...
October 08, 2013, 04:42:06 pm
It might just be me, but remembering the intricacies of a problem once you've got home isn't very easy. I've done audio files of problems I haven't quite completed so I don't waste time in future. It's quite laborious. Hopefully they'll invent some way of capturing moving images and relaying them to a type of portable device in the future so that you can actually watch other people do the climb when you're at the crag... :tease:

tomtom

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#6 Re: I have an idea...
October 08, 2013, 04:50:05 pm
masterbeta is a genius name though! :D

andyd

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#7 Re: I have an idea...
October 08, 2013, 06:00:30 pm
masterbeta is a genius name though! :D

Amusingly already used by our Italian friends who ride bikes
http://www.masterbeta.it/


I wonder if they realise?

tomtom

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#8 Re: I have an idea...
October 08, 2013, 06:23:11 pm
masterbeta is a genius name though! :D

Amusingly already used by our Italian friends who ride bikes
http://www.masterbeta.it/


I wonder if they realise?

*idiot warning*

somehow it sounds even better/worse(?) said in a bad Italian accent! :)

Tutti Bella..

*/idiot warning*

a dense loner

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#9 Re: I have an idea...
October 08, 2013, 09:56:58 pm
Honest thoughts? Keep your ideas private Zen, then I won't have 2stare at the screen thinking are u taking the piss? :sorry:


 

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