[Nigel]

What ya sayin' Doylio? NICE ONE JON!!!! Good names, wish I'd thought of them...

[Pantontino]

I except what you're saying about The Pinch, but, if V5 is yer limit, then Oh Yeah is a fully airborn experience (it certainly feels desperate enough at the end of Boneyard). I've seen strong 'old school' static boys flounder badly on this. Katz of course managed to lock the small crimp on the wall and static the move -  not that that is of any import, just pointing out that a mutant can often bypass the purity of a great dyno.

[Doylo]

its well desperate at the end of boneyard, i must have fallen there 6 times before success.

[hongkongstuey]

now we're talking.

best dynos what i've done in the UK:

Buckstone dyno (7a+)
Roaches Undercuts Dyno (7a)

i'd have said the grades on these ought to be the other way round Dave (and maybe harder than 7a+ for the Roaches one!) - i dispatched the Buckstone in under 1/2 hour yet the Roaches thing took me a few months of regualr visits to bag.

also, no Deliverance on your list??? i know it can be done a girly rock over way but the original dyno way is sheer class

[Bonjoy]

Yorkshire
Sloping Beauty V8+
Underpants V9

Wait a minute everythings a dyno when your as weak as me  :D

I had to dyno the last move on sloping beauty but I wouldn't say its a dyno problem, same with underpants (although I've not done it yet, but come very,very close a couple of times :cry: infact I was robbed)
maybe a new thread is needed: when is a dyno not a dyno  

I agree - soemone strong enough could lock the slopes on SB to thier chest and reach it, and if/when you land Underpants (i haven't) i think you'll have 2 hands and a foot on. deffo slaps, albeit butch ones.

 I do SB by crossing onto the sloper with a toe-hook (oh yes :wink: ) out right, sketch left foot leftward, release toe-hook and momentum carries you to the top, very lovely move but not a dyno by any stretch of the imagination.

[dave]

I except what you're saying about The Pinch, but, if V5 is yer limit, then Oh Yeah is a fully airborn experience (it certainly feels desperate enough at the end of Boneyard). I've seen strong 'old school' static boys flounder badly on this. Katz of course managed to lock the small crimp on the wall and static the move -  not that that is of any import, just pointing out that a mutant can often bypass the purity of a great dyno.

i think when i did oh yeah i had my left outside edge well and truly on a very good foothold, so certainly for me it was just a slap.

I recon if your other hand is still holding the starting hold then its not much of a dyno in the majority of cases.

i'd have said the grades on these ought to be the other way round Dave (and maybe harder than 7a+ for the Roaches one!) - i dispatched the Buckstone in under 1/2 hour yet the Roaches thing took me a few months of regualr visits to bag.

 to be honest buckstone took me a couple of sessions to do, and only a session once i knew how to do it best (i.e. both hands laying off the pillar). On the other hand the roaches one took me about 6 goes and i did it about a dozen times cos i enjoyed it so much. I don't want to get into the old "downgrading oneupmanship" but i honestly feel its no harder than 7a and certainly wouldn't get more than that in font. the other lad that did it with me took him about 3 goes and he agreed. its about standing up fast on that high foothold and getting the momentum to carry through. also when i did it i'd just come back from a font trip where i'd done quite a few dynos graded 7a-7b+, and the roaches dyno was easier than any of them. if you compare it to Vin Rouge at isatis, thats given 7a+(7a) and i know its steeper but its similar being off undercuts, and that miles harder than the roaches one.

it an amazing problem, but i've seen thing like 7b+ given to it which just seems mental.

also, no Deliverance on your list??? i know it can be done a girly rock over way but the original dyno way is sheer class

i always consider the "dyno" way to be more of a jump, since 90% of it comes through your legs, the right arm remains more or less straight throughout. its more like doing a sergent jump at school than a dyno.

[Bubba]

a sergent jump at school

What dat?

[dave]

its the thing we had to do during the termly "fitness test" where you stood against a wall, had a bit of chalk in your hand and from a standing start had to jump and put a mark as high as you could and it was measured. One of the only things i was the best at.

[a dense loner]

will start off by sayin i love climbin a)cos it's pointless b)cos u can get into so many rants  :wink:
dave: was goin to compare roaches dyno to vin rouge myself, xcept, xcept, say roaches one was miles harder  :shock:
bonjoy: the baron (younger) used sneaky toe beta on SB as well. looks like a completely seperate prob when u do that . good to watch.

[dave]

some people do Sb by getting the sloper, getting undercut over right then going again with left for the jug!!! sounds wack to me.

i found the trick on SB was i found a pebble to hook my thumb over for the LH on the sloper, which took all the weight and was useful since all my other tips were taped up and fucked.

[Bonjoy]

The good thing about the cross-over beta is that you can do the prob with next to no skinloss , even in fairly warm weather.

[Jim]

I recon the toe hook made it harder (for me anyway) I just matched the sloper, got me toe on and went for the jug. The hard part is matching the sloper this way. agreed, toe hook beta looked like a diferent prob. Underpants, I recon if your tall enough (6'1+) you could it with both feet staying on.

[a dense loner]

i expected nothin less of bonjoy usin sneaky heels n toes, he disgusts me he really does  :wink:

[Bonjoy]

i expected nothin less of bonjoy usin sneaky heels n toes, he disgusts me he really does  :wink:

 :D  :D  :D

[a dense loner]

wot's that got to do wi climbin, why it's just like it's walkin upside down  :wink:

[dobbin]

Where you born in France Jon boy?

[Big Frank]

The Dyno at cleft butress would be good (if I could do it) V?

http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/yg/photos/brimham__cleft_3.jpg

Anyone here done it?


PS The tick marks on the problem to the left are Jons!

[dave]

looks like a slap to me FH.....

[Big Frank]

looks like a slap to me FH.....

A very dynamic one! :smokin:

[webbo]

use the glaring obvious jam and it becomes a slightly fast move

[Big Frank]

use the glaring obvious jam and it becomes a slightly fast move

Jammings for the dangle clangle trad brigade!

[webbo]

i would of thought a gentleman of your mature years like myself would be resorting to jammin to bring everything down to punter levels

[cofe]

surely a dyno is "all points off"??? in which case tings like the pinch and thunderpants are just slaps, the latter being very fast and very butch.

probs best one i've done is the one i set down the wall:

"Cofe's dyno, V15 above a 40ft shale drop in the matrix, dead ard like me"

[dave]

I've just noticed the Roaches Undercuts dyno gets V8 in the new "Best Guide In The World" guidebook (i.e. staffs grit - its a reet corker i tell thee!).

[Scouse D]

Leo's Dyno on the Roadside face of the Cromlech is pretty good(and dare i say it easier than the Edges problem), also there's a dyno just to the L of Johnny's wall from two big pockets to the top which is proper bo(I know this one as the coaches dyno as it's a good one to do in summer when coachloads of tourists drive past....sometimes I wonder if I'm climbing for the right reasons :roll:)