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Best dyno in Britain (and therefore the Peak) (Read 15136 times)

hardtofollow

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Whats everyones favourite dynos accross the grades and most importantly whats the best?
Im workin my through the big ones in peak but im going to need some good but less well known ones soon  :P
I'll start the ball rollin, my favourite so far has got to be the Buckstone, followed closely by Superior Air in the pass (damn you Pantontino, I liked thinkin i'd done a V12 in 3 goes  :evil: )

Bonjoy

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Maurice Gib V10 at Gib Tor looks pretty bloody awesome.

Jim

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brad pit's a big number in the peak for a dyno (and yes I know it goes static a number of ways as well but so does buckstones :? )

a dense loner

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it depends whether u mean easy dyno's usin jugs that r miles apart ergo tall people can do them or dyno's that require a modicum of technique/finger strength.

paths for the tall:
buckstone
attitude inspector
pooh
kirton
quents
george's (usin big sidepull for left)

modicum:
megatron
hurricane

dyno's r amazin but should be treated wi the contempt that they deserve. while we're at it vienna n the dyno at pex r not dyno's. they r about 5b cos all they r is standin on somethin akin to the size of the floor and bendin the legs. my apologies to anybody of smaller stature who finds these harder. they r nothin to do wi climbin  :shock:

a dense loner

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Quote
and yes I know it goes static a number of ways as well but so does buckstones


buckstones doesn't go static at all in any way. the clue is in the name "buckstones dyno". dyno from the big flatties to the top. it doesn't say lean out right from the flatties workin your way up the wall with your hands. ron hasn't done it static. neither has adam wood. they have both done other probs. it's like sayin the kirton goes static.  :bash:

dave

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now we're talking.

best dynos what i've done in the UK:

Buckstone dyno (7a+)
Georges wall dyno (7c?)
Kirton Dyno (7a+)
Roaches Undercuts Dyno (7a)
The one right of Bulb at Eagle Tor (7b)
To Be Or Not To Be (7a)
Roche Abbey 5c dyno (5+)
Rocket Man (7b+)
Pooh (7b+)
Smoke on't Watter wall dyno (6b)
That V6 one at Pex (7a)
The Stanton one (7a+)
That B7 mono one at burbage (7a)

BTW things like pooh, rocket man and jetpack are not easier for the tall as they are quite bunched up and close to the floor - the crux on those is not getting the distance but hitting the top before your feet hit the ground. Also i don't recon hurricane is a dyno. If it was then the joker would be anall, but it ain't.

a dense loner

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agree wi u on rocket man, don't know what jetpack is? but i stand/jump firmly by every dyno that i mentioned.
also
lift off

rate megatron as the best problem on lime, never mind dyno

Greg C

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South Lakes
The Trick - V6
Gregs Dyno - V8  :wink:
Prophets of Sound V10

Yorkshire
Sloping Beauty V8+
Underpants V9

Wait a minute everythings a dyno when your as weak as me  :D

P.S. Yeah I was quite happy with Superior Air being V12 as well :(

dave

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jet pack is lovejoys arse-dragging one underneath the turd-burglar traverse thing at froggit. nice but low.

dunno what the big sidepull you mean on georges is.

dave

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Quote from: "Greg Chapman"

Yorkshire
Sloping Beauty V8+
Underpants V9


i'd have said they were both slaps rather than dynos.

Jim

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Quote from: "Greg Chapman"
Yorkshire
Sloping Beauty V8+
Underpants V9

Wait a minute everythings a dyno when your as weak as me  :D

I had to dyno the last move on sloping beauty but I wouldn't say its a dyno problem, same with underpants (although I've not done it yet, but come very,very close a couple of times :cry: infact I was robbed)
maybe a new thread is needed: when is a dyno not a dyno  :lol:

a dense loner

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am useless  :cry:  don't know wot turd burglar is.
georges: mans way big hold to top (hard 7c)
southerners way big hold for right, big undercut/sidepell for left (nowhere near 7c, but people claim it as that)
tis pissed thro now tho.
one-armed dyno's at stoney also genius as well as pockets on trackside boulder a la http:bloc.
don't worry dave not havin dig at u cos u're enormous, just don't like dyno's bein used in the same gradin scale  :cry:  :cry:  :cry: but wot can u do???

jonP

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Sloping Beauty & Underpants are both definitely dynos (assuming 'dyno' means 'jump').  Or at least they are for me.  More from Yorkshire:

Slipstones
- the wall opposite Micro Corner (V2/3)
- wall right of Overhanging Arete (V3)
- Super Furry Animals (V12?)
- Stipule (V9)
   
Widdop
- Morning Sickness (V4)
   
Lord's Seat
- The Roof Dyno (V4)
   
Brimham
- The Niche dyno (V8?)
   
Earl
- John Dunne Slap (if you're short)

Crookrise
- Ron's Crease (although the static version is easier)

a dense loner

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john dunne slap - fantastic. sad to say i don't know any of the others. when is a dyno not a dyno, o god, we could be some time.  :lol:

mark

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Quote from: "a dense loner"
when is a dyno not a dyno, o god, we could be some time.  :lol:


Defined by Jason Myers in The Thing #5, I quote...

The Slap Not dynamic in any way. 3 pts. of contact. You slap because you're weak.

The Lunge A tiny bit dynamic. 2 pts. of contact.

The Jump Dynamic. 1 pt. of contact.

The Dyno Truly dynamic. No contact.

Jim

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john dunne slap definately a dyno (for me anyway) unless you do it the static way of course :hihi:
underpants:
Quote
The Slap Not dynamic in any way. 3 pts. of contact. You slap because you're weak.

I'd like to see someone do it staticaly (not using the pocket and heel hook round the corner tho :321: )or is it a lunge????
I recon a dyno is when you have to cut away with both feet.
I'm shit at dyno's anyway
this could go on and on
 :argue2:

a dense loner

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i was wrong, din't take long at all  :D

Trevor N

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What grade does superior air get now (haven't got the new guide yet)?

Doylo

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v8, and Loose Canon gets v5  :!:  :!:  :!:  :!:

Pantontino

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I'm surprised CJD hasn't been on yet - that boy sure puts his 'bingo wings to good use.

Anyway, here's a few more from the land of kings:

Downset V12 - Elephantitus Cave
*Oh Yeah V5 - Caseg Fraith
Poppy's Reach V12 - Rhiw Goch
*Mr Whippy V7 - Marine Drive
Punk standing start V8+ - Clogwyn y Tarw
*The Organ Grinder V8+ - Marine Drive
Saturn V7 - Milestone Buttress
Monkey Do V6 - Milestone Buttress
*The Pinch V7 - Sheep Pen
Nodder's Dyno V6 - Llanberis Pass

(the starred ones have been climbed by more static methods - although usually at a harder grade.)

But best of all is probably an eliminate: Leo's Dyno on the Cromlech Roadside Face, i.e. from the initial holds on The Edge Problem to the top - CJD actually finds this easier than the original problem!

Scouse D

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Nodder's Dyno is fuckin class and very frustrating.
Pooh\is a bit shit i reckon-don't really rate dynos from sitting.
Hurricane ain't really a dyno atall- tis a fast controlled pull really

Doylo

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I personally don't regard the Punk as a dyno (because i've done it and i can't dyno any harder than v5). I spose it comes back to what the definition of a dyno actually is but for me that problems more of a semi static pop deadpoint kinda move. Kwalitee problem anyhoos  :lol:
Heres a pic of hurley on it (he doesn't hang it by the way)


dave

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Quote from: "Jim"
Quote from: "Greg Chapman"
Yorkshire
Sloping Beauty V8+
Underpants V9

Wait a minute everythings a dyno when your as weak as me  :D

I had to dyno the last move on sloping beauty but I wouldn't say its a dyno problem, same with underpants (although I've not done it yet, but come very,very close a couple of times :cry: infact I was robbed)
maybe a new thread is needed: when is a dyno not a dyno  :lol:


I agree - soemone strong enough could lock the slopes on SB to thier chest and reach it, and if/when you land Underpants (i haven't) i think you'll have 2 hands and a foot on. deffo slaps, albeit butch ones.

dave

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Quote from: "a dense loner"

georges: mans way big hold to top (hard 7c)


aye, thats the way i did it. funny one cos there no timing or momentum, you've just got to pull very hard with high feet. i take it you go to the break, not the gay sloper?

On the north wales flava, i must protest that although the Pinch ( sheep pen) and to a lesser extent Oh Yeah are cracking problems, they fall short of dynos in my book, they are slaps. OK they might be dynos compared to crescent arete, but they're not dynoes when compared to, say, the buckstone dyno, which IS a quintessential dyno.

Doylo

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don't say that, oh yeah is my hardest dyno  :crying: shame about the name.

 

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