[Gritter]

On sat I fell off gibbering wreck and caused an open dislocation to my little finger. I have somehow managed to keep my tendons, nerve and ligaments in tact to the amazement of the consultant and myself, although all have obviously had some trauma my range of motion is pretty good and pain is minimal. I'm able to dead hang on my front three with no pain and was wondering what peoples advice was to whether cautious bouldering could commence?(only using front three). I obviously asked the doctors and nurses whilst in hospital and got a mixed bag of answers leaving me confused so any help would be appreciated, ta.

[galpinos]

Chuffing hell Nick, I thought you'd be out for ages, that photo made it look like a right off (and your eyes looked pretty spacey!)

See you down the wall tonight? 

[andyd]

yuk. wasn't quaite sure of what a open dislocation was. don't google it while you're eating your lunch.

I dislocated mine 18 months ago and it's still not 100%. Go careful.

[Gritter]

I've been contemplating the wall tonight but I think the Mrs would be suitably unimpressed! I did manage a Pilate's class last night though 
Which finger was it Andy? How much tendon or ligament damage and how long until you climbed after the injury?
The only reason I'm even considering climbing again so soon is because my front three are sweet as a nut!

[andyd]

I dived sideways to catch a ball and bent my pinkie out sideways at 90 degrees from the joint. I pulled it back in after about 2 minutes of panic and think that the tendons were unharmed however there was a lot of fluid on the joint for a long while after.
The knuckle is still swollen/enlarged today and won't fully close. I doubt it ever will if I carry on ignoring it. I can't pull on pinkie finger locks anymore, however the crimp strength is fine.
If you are going to climb soon, tape it to a splint so it won't bend. I f***ing kills when you accidentally close your fist as you easily forget. I nearly passed out when I caught a rubber someone threw to me across the classroom. You don't want to do this when you're climbing.

It'll get better mate, just expect your dexterity for finger related skills like musical instruments and crack climbing to reduce somewhat.

Oh yeah, the ice thing that is often talked about. According to a hand specialist doctor friend, this is bull-shit. You've missed the window for it doing any good now.

[Gritter]

Cheers Andy, I've got a good plastic single finger splint to stop any hyper extension from the hospital which with a bit of additional taping should be adequately protective (fingers and toes crossed) . With regard to my range of motion I'm not far off full closure already which has got to be a good sign surely? I'm planning on dropping grade a lot in the initial few weeks and I'm gonna climb more statically I just don't wanna be cooped up at the weekend feeling sorry for myself!

[andyd]

Sounds promising. Let's see the pic then!

[Gritter]

[cheque]

Fucking hell! 

[Gritter]

That's what I thought!

[iwasmexican]

jesus h christ

[Monolith]

JESUS CHRIST.

[fatdoc]

Fucking hell, that's gonna hurt

[Gritter]

All hail morphine!

[kingholmesy]

I had an open dislocation of my index finger a couple of years ago, caused by falling off the top of Oedipus Ring Your Mother.  Personally I took a couple of months off and went road cycling instead - until I got knocked off by a car and broke my elbow.  Needless to say, it wasn't the best year for climbing.

Anyway, you will be encouraged to know that I have full range of motion and strength in my finger.  The range of motion took a while to improve.  For me it was important to keep stretching the finger (i.e. bending it back).  It also made a big difference regularly massaging it to break down the scar issue.  The NHS should sort you out with a couple of physio appointments where they will no doubt tell you what you need to do.

Stay positive and I'm sure you'll be back to crushing in no time.   

[Gritter]

Sounds promising. Got out at the weekend and found the main problem with it being heavily strapped was that it just kept getting in the way, no pain though!
Did they offer you any electrotherapy or similar on the NHS?

[kingholmesy]

Nope.  Just gave me some weird anti-scar tissue cream (which I'm not sure did much) and had two physio appointments at which they basically told my to keep bending my finger back to improve the range of motion and to keep kneading the scar tissue to break it down. Usual disclaimer that your injury might be different, but sounds promising that you were out at the weekend already.

[Gritlad]

Christ. Think I met you at west side story Saturday. Thought you just had a nastly flapper with lots of over the top taping going on. F**king effort climbing with that!!

[Gritter]

Cheers, that certainly would of been over the top taping for a flapper, it looked like a bloody dildo!

[rich d]

I had an open dislocation of my index finger a couple of years ago, caused by falling off the top of Oedipus Ring Your Mother.

did you fall off the VS bit? You fucking punter!